Hey Norm buddy, still awaiting your explanation as to how you would reliably check main saddle alignment with just Plastigage.

Funny how you've shied away from this. Normally you're harassing others to back up their statements. Hmmmmm, guess you really don't have a clue do you?

 

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/186000-post10.html

After you, sir.

Norm

 

Uhhh, how does this answer the question posed to you? You stated that you can use Plastigage to check main bore alignment, please answer how you would go about doing that. Do I need to attach your original post again? Answer the question Norm. We are all waiting!

You're such a jerk.

 

The engine is ready. All I need is some help and time to get it put in the car. I recieved 15 stitches Friday at work to my left hand and finger. It makes working on the cutlass that harder. My buddy and I are planning for this friday. I'll keep an update to the results, Joe.

 

Good luck with your new rebuild, keep us posted.

 

Well I finally got this back together. Yesterday it fired up and after setting the timing she warmed up and ran good. I reset the hot lash and took it around town for some milage. On the initial start oil press cold was 50-55 and at 160deg in park was 30+. I put about 30-40 miles of in town driving on her. The temp creept to 190 but would cool to 170 while driving. The oil press in drive, at temp was 20-25 at 750 rpm. I got about two months left of summer so it's time to enjoy it. Thanks to all and Bill at Btr for the help. Joe

 

Congrats, glad to hear you back on the road again

 

Well, it finally stopped raining so I took the cutlass for another spin. I put about another 30 miles on it and came home to let it cool. I had decided to pull the oil filter and open it up. I took the filter off and poured some oil out across some paper. IT HAS METAL IN IT! Not much but enough to see. I took the rest of the filter apart and there is a piece of metal every 3 to 4 folds of filter element. I dont know if enough to worry about but it sickens me. The rpm havent been over 3500. The temp has only seen 190 once and it came right down once in motion. Im not sure what the metal is but its not metallic. Im not sure what to do with it now? Does anyone have some ideas?

 

every new motor is going to have some sparklys in its metal for teh first couple oil changes. Just run it the way it is.

Just make sure you are running a good quality OFFROAD oil with plenty of ZDDP in it (or an additive) and drive it.

btw, pretty much no regular oils have enough ZDDP in them anymore for what our old motors need... Racing oils like Brad Penn, etc have more. There had been a lot of reasearch done on some other sites about this(and subsequent cam faliures caused by running mordern oils without enough ZDDP in them) I'll see if i can find it and post it.

 

does the cd fill in or go farther that the vids on you tube 8 in all I think ??
Do you think it is worth the money ? Thanks

 

I'm running valvoline 20-50. I'm running a solid roller cam so I don't think the additive is that important. I've only seen the videos to #4. I haven't recieved the cd yet. Should I Change the oil now or wait for some more mileage? Well....... i bought a new filter and went out to put it on and looked at it all again. Its done! check out the pics. after the filter media drained out i cut it out and found whats really in it. then i looked into the filter case. some of it im sure came from using a dremel to open it up but its bad. im done for the year on this thing. I dont know if it would make a difference but i put a 200 4r behind it and if i went into 4th and locked up the converter it would lug and buck but i didnt use because of this.

 

Looks normal to me. If you had a major issue you would see alot more metal in the folds of the filter. I had a 327 years ago that I learned a tough lesson when I didn't get the intake manifold completely clean. It had a heat shield attached to the intake with hidden carbon deposits that dropped into the motor while it ran. The oil pressure continued to drop until it was well below 10 pounds at an idle. It destroyed the bearings and in the filter folds it looked like fine pencil lead packed in the folds. with alot of glittery junk as well. Keep an eye on the oil pressure. I think it will be fine.

 

I'm not an expert but I'd expect to see some bits from the original problem still being filtered out. Unless you removed all the oil plugs in the block and thoroughly cleaned out all the passages you'll see some metal for the next couple oil changes as the last of it works its way through the system and into the filter. If your running an oil cooler than that may also be holding a bit of debris which would need to be flushed out.

 

The bucking is because you have too much cam for it to run smoothly under load at low rpm.

You can expect to see some debris in the filter. I agree with the rest, keep an eye on the oil pressure and maybe cut the next filter open to see as well. But try to use tin snips, it'll give you a better idea of what is what.

 

I heard of the driving issue in lockup with big cams so I plan to change that. As for the engine, the block was tore down and cleaned, new cam bearings installed. Crank was turned and finally cleaned by me twice and the rods were checked and resized as nessasary. All that debris seams excessive. My friend and I thought the same thing, change the oil and watch it and check the fliter again. It seams like a waste of money at this point but you never know. So far the oil pressure has been good with it seeing about 20 at idle and 55-60 while driving. I tried the napa gold 1049 but its to long so I've been using the gold 1258( I think from memory) and no oil cooler. Joe