I'm getting ready to start building a 455 to replace the 455 in my 67 Cutlass.

Does anyone here know/have experience with a good machine shop in the Marietta, GA area?

I've found a machine shop in Acworth Georgia. In talking to them they 'seem' to be knowledgeable with Olds engines - mostly dirt track racing here in northern Georgia.

To go completely through the block, bore cylinders using torque plate, alignbore crank/cam, deck the block, check for cracks etc they are asking $550. It's been a long time since doing this, is this a 'typical' price?

TIA

 

What about reconditioning the rods and assembling a short block?

 

I plan on doing all that and more. But getting the block checked and gone through is just the first step of many items.

I'm not sure what direction I'm taking the bottom end in yet. Maybe the factory rods, maybe not...

I plan on doing all the engine assembling myself. I trust my work more than others. But for things I can't do, like machine work, I'll farm out to a good shop.

 

My guy is in Jax, Fl. He's the best, he won't be any cheaper than that but I assure it'll be done right. But don't let anybody bore your block using the torque plate for a reference, wrong way to do it. He has my BHJ Bor Tru plate there, that's the way to do it. He also has an Olds torque plate.

 

I'm trying to remeber the one I know out by the Big Chicken, but to tell ya the truth, I wouldn't reccomed him.

Call Charlie at Peach State Classics in Alpharetta and see who he uses. 770-664-4803

 

I considered using a torque plate when my block was machined but decided against it after doing some reading on our website. I decided it wasn't necessary for my streetable weekend warrior.

 

Not arguing, just need more info...

Could you explain why 'using the torque plate for a reference' is wrong?

What exactly is 'BHJ Bor Tru plate'? Is this something a machine shop should have?

How is 'an Olds torque plate' different from a torque plate?

I think I know who you are referring to. Chix or something like that, pretty much out of business and understand why they are.

OK, now I'm confused. I thought using a torque plate when having a block bored was something you should do regardless if the engine is a street engine or not.


Thanks
Eric

 

Forget them, unless you are building a "race" engine.

After these myths have been around for a couple of generations they tend to get accepted as fact. Those who continue to keep them alive, are saying that the GM design and manufacturing groups were not competent.

If you tell a shop to do those operations, they will be happy to take your money. If you ask if they need to be done for a "street" engine and the answer is yes, find another shop.

Norm

 

Don't believe Norm. It would be stupid to have an engine totally disassembled and not have the align bore and deck at least checked and corrected if it's off.

Don't ever bore any block using a torque plate. Torque plates are for honing only. They use the existing dowel location as a reference. I assure you more often than not they're off. The correct way is to bore it with a Bor Tru plate which locates off the crank and a squared deck or at the very least just bore it locating off a squared deck for correct angles front to back and side to side . That way the bores are perpendicular to the crank and at the correct angle over the crank. This won't necessarily increase hp but can cut down on ring and bore wear and potentially cut down on friction. Then hone it with a torque plate. This will increase initial sealing and and help things seat faster. I've seen many blocks, Olds or not, that had bores nowhere near where they should have been.

Norm must have worked in the factory because he keeps defending past manufacturing processes. What lasts longer today? A 60's or 70's muscle car motor from the factory or the newer stuff? The newer stuff will go 150-200k without ring issues, the older stuff would almost never do that. Lots of reasons but part of it is better materials and machining practices. You have some of that technology available to you today. Why not potentially make it better than it ever was? JMO.

I would expect that answer from Norm. From here on out I will pm you. Norm will probably argue this and I know he doesn't have a clue. I posted this response at the urging of others to keep quality info on this site. I'm done here.

 

1. "Stupid" is a poor choice of words to use in a mature discussion as it can be seen as inflamatory.
2. In the absence of some evidence pointing to a problem?

First, one would need to find that it was actually "off".

Deck (except the its height) can be measured with basic hand tools and line bore can be checked by visual inspection of the used bearings and crankshaft. Deck height can be easily measured with vernier calipers.

How far off is "off"?

http://www.bhjproducts.com/bhj_conte...ntfixt/btk.php

Other than being "correct" is there some kind of measurable gain to be made by going through this extra time and expense?

How much increase, over a correct hone, will be gained by using a torque plate?

This one raises a couple of questions:

1. "I've seen" is an example of "anecdotal evidence" that can only be credible in a discussion such as this one, if used by someone with established "credentials", in that field.
2. Assuming your statement is accurate: How far off is "nowhere near?

cutlassefi seems to be so preoccupied with what "Norm knows" that he is unable to defend his own beliefs.

Is "potentially" what your entire "JMO" is based on?

Did anyone have any doubt?

And I know that you can "talk the talk". The question is: Can you "walk the walk"?

1. Did those others "urge" you to address this discussion in a mature manner?
2. And do you think a mature discussion of your (and my) claims would not come under the heading of "quality info"?
3. Are you and tedm related in any way?

Norm

 

Contrary to popular belief apparently you can't read Norm.

 

Ok, regardless of the conversation of this thread and back to my original question.

I'm still in need of a good machine shop somewhere near Marietta, GA.

Anyone know of one?

 

Visit your local ¼ mile drag strip. Look for an 8 or 9 second car and ask the owner/driver who does his/her machine work.

Norm

 

Since your so close to Atlanta I'm sure there is a good machine shop near you. You also might contact the local chapter of Olds Club of America and ask one of their reps if they know of a good machine shop.

 

Apparently you can't see the big picture.

1. It is there, and will remain there, whether you address it or not.
   
   
2. It is there to highlight your reluctance to share the fruits of your many years of engine building experience.

Norm

 

Here is the local Olds club website:

http://dixieolds.50megs.com/