Factory Engine Colors

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Old April 24th, 2008, 10:19 PM
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Factory Engine Colors

How do I find out the factory correct colors for an oldsmobile engine? I have a 1970 455ci in a 1972 Cutlass S. Should I paint it the '72 color, or the '70 color? They could be the same, but that's why I go to the experts... If I'm painting an engine, I might as well do it right.
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Old April 24th, 2008, 10:34 PM
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This is the one topic that gets me mad..Paint it what color you want! You will have people that say "well this bronze, red, blue , gold, color has too much metallic in it". My question is this.. DO YOU THINK OLDSMOBILE HAD ANY QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTORS LOOKING AT THE CORRECT SHADE OF ENGINE PAINT????
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Old April 25th, 2008, 04:31 AM
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I would go with the 72 color which I believe is the metallic blue..
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Old April 25th, 2008, 04:58 AM
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59-59-59 has a point, unless you are completely restoring the car (which you probably aren't) then paint it what you wish. I would say this however, if possible paint it out of the car, if not take extra care in cleaning and use good engine enamel. I have even used brush on paint on an engine and you really don't get visible brush marks because there are so many compound surfaces on an engine that they just don't show. Pick the one you like the best and go for it.
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Old April 25th, 2008, 05:01 AM
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The brush on paint Oldsguy used is also very durable. I know the paint he used was POR 15 with a base coat. Some other people might be able to attest to its quality and durability.
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Old April 26th, 2008, 09:23 PM
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I beleive both '70 & '72 big blocks were metallic blue
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Old April 27th, 2008, 07:06 PM
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jonstringer, Your are all over it, do the job right and paint it the original color which is blue. Fusik's (www.fusick.com) has the paint and lists it by year and engine size. 2 spray cans should be enough. One more thing, after painting, vehicle operation you will usally have heat discoloration near the exhaust manifolds and near the choke stove area.
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Old May 6th, 2008, 01:35 PM
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I'm not planning to do a full restoration, that is true. Part of the reason I enjoy classic vehicles are the differences that make them unique. When I built model cars, i meticulously chose the correct colors of exterior, interior, and engine paint so when you popped the little hood, you could see a difference. I'm not restoring it, but I do want it to keep it's original identity. Oldsmobile is a very obscure division, so I'm doing my part to keep it obscure.
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Old May 21st, 2008, 05:08 AM
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Who sell's the Bronze brush on engine paint?
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Old May 29th, 2008, 08:18 PM
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[quote=jonstringer;32489]I'm not planning to do a full restoration, that is true. Part of the reason I enjoy classic vehicles are the differences that make them unique. When I built model cars, i meticulously chose the correct colors of exterior, interior, and engine paint so when you popped the little hood, you could see a difference. I'm not restoring it, but I do want it to keep it's original identity. Oldsmobile is a very obscure division, so I'm doing my part to keep it obscure.[/quote]

What????? They are out of business.....so say it loud and proud.

Regards,

Fred
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Old May 30th, 2008, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jonstringer
How do I find out the factory correct colors for an oldsmobile engine? I have a 1970 455ci in a 1972 Cutlass S. Should I paint it the '72 color, or the '70 color? They could be the same, but that's why I go to the experts... If I'm painting an engine, I might as well do it right.
Well, if you're trying to keep the car a sleeper paint it gold and put a Rocket 350 decal on the air cleaner. Otherwise, the 455 was painted the same blue in 1970 and 1972.
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Old June 16th, 2008, 09:41 AM
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Yeah the previous owner of my Cutlass 455 did that, painted it gold, and it took me 3 weeks, 3 cans of degreaser, and having myself covered in 20 lbs of crud to get the gold paint covered grease off of EVERYTHING including the air clearners, coil, damn near everything. But this weekend I finished it all up and it looks incredible, well worth all the blood sweat and tears ( there was plenty of all) Once I get everything bolted up, I will take some pictures and post them up here.

-Eric
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Old June 16th, 2008, 12:32 PM
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Brush on paint

Okay, this thread reminded me of a question I have...
Last weekend at the Monthly Muscle car show in Plano (my first show, BTW) I was talking to a guy who has a brown 72 4-4-2 convertible.

He had repainted his 455 the correct blue by brushing on spray paint.
He sprayed the paint from the rattle-can into a cup and painted it on with different sized brushes. It looked nice, even though he did not pull the engine.
Does this special engine paint require a primer?

Providing the surface is clean, will the paint cure and adhere okay?

I am guessing it should and I am willing to give it a try next year when all the A/C components & acc'y brackets are pulled and sent in for restoration. My 350 really needs a new coat of gold; anything would look better than it does - it looks more like a rusted hulk of iron...
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Old June 16th, 2008, 02:08 PM
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Rob, I would rather use a pint of enamel paint from the hardware store than to spray rattle can into a container until it puddles and then brush it on. I have done that, for little spots or hard to get places that needed a final touch up on a piece that was getting the whole rattle can treatment anyway but I think to do a whole engine would be a lot of effort and wasted paint.
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Old June 16th, 2008, 04:37 PM
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I'm a gold guy myself...

Personally I'm fond of the 350 gold, but if you're running a 455 then I would say you gotta go with blue.

Last edited by #1CutlassSupreme; June 16th, 2008 at 04:39 PM.
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Old June 17th, 2008, 05:47 AM
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I used some of the ceramic engine paint that drys pretty damn quick to begin with, then you just run the engine for awhile to cure it. I have not done the final cure yet, but even now it seems pretty tough and scratch resistant. I just disassembled as much as I could around the engine, masked off what I could, and sprayed it down. I didn't have to brush on any touchups, but I also don't have AC, and I had the rad, waterpump, pully system, everything off, so it made it much easier to spray the whole thing.
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