Aluminum Connecting Rods....
Aluminum Connecting Rods....
Is it worth using aluminum connecting rods on a street 455 engine that will produce 450-475hp? I know the lighter the rotating assembly the better.
Just currious....
Just currious....
I would never run them. On a street motor, you are not really going to notice the gain from it anyway. Spend your money on parts that will get you more HP per $. Aluminum rods on street engines are good for bragging and are lighter when you are picking up whats left of the motor off the pavement.
We got into a debate about this a few months ago. The fact is that modern aluminum rods made by BME are strong enough to be used on the street. However, the cost of the rod doesn't make it feasible. You will spend so much money on the rods and unless you're spinning your street engine to 7500 RPM you won't ever realize the benefit.
Waste of money unless you're running 1,000 hp at 8,000 rpm
Waste of money unless you're running 1,000 hp at 8,000 rpm
Thanks for the info guys! I think I'm gonna just go with some Eagle rods.
What other brand of rods are there for the Olds? I know Olds Performance Products makes them, has anyone used them?
What other brand of rods are there for the Olds? I know Olds Performance Products makes them, has anyone used them?
I don't think the CAT Olds rods are available anymore.
RPM International makes the Mondello I-beam rods.
They sell them under PN# LG3-6735I and you can buy them direct for under $400.
http://www.racingpartsmaximum.com/sae4340ibeam-2.html
RPM International makes the Mondello I-beam rods.
They sell them under PN# LG3-6735I and you can buy them direct for under $400.
http://www.racingpartsmaximum.com/sae4340ibeam-2.html
I don't think the CAT Olds rods are available anymore.
RPM International makes the Mondello I-beam rods.
They sell them under PN# LG3-6735I and you can buy them direct for under $400.
http://www.racingpartsmaximum.com/sae4340ibeam-2.html
RPM International makes the Mondello I-beam rods.
They sell them under PN# LG3-6735I and you can buy them direct for under $400.
http://www.racingpartsmaximum.com/sae4340ibeam-2.html
I would not buy ANYTHING with that brand. With the intention of using it, anyhow.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150646769737...84.m1555.l2649
Note that the "pare", er, the part was very poorly made. No provision for a dipstick tube to pass thru. 5140 steel, my ****. Studs snapped off before getting to 80 ft-lbs. Nuts dig into the girdle material. Girdle interfered with oil pan at the front. Studs have no recess hex to install/ remove, so double nutting is the clever plan there- then the nuts seize to the stud because they are made of SHYT.
AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE.
Huh, after my experience with "C.A.T." SBO halo girdle...
I would not buy ANYTHING with that brand. With the intention of using it, anyhow.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150646769737...84.m1555.l2649
Note that the "pare", er, the part was very poorly made. No provision for a dipstick tube to pass thru. 5140 steel, my ****. Studs snapped off before getting to 80 ft-lbs. Nuts dig into the girdle material. Girdle interfered with oil pan at the front. Studs have no recess hex to install/ remove, so double nutting is the clever plan there- then the nuts seize to the stud because they are made of SHYT.
AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE.
I would not buy ANYTHING with that brand. With the intention of using it, anyhow.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150646769737...84.m1555.l2649
Note that the "pare", er, the part was very poorly made. No provision for a dipstick tube to pass thru. 5140 steel, my ****. Studs snapped off before getting to 80 ft-lbs. Nuts dig into the girdle material. Girdle interfered with oil pan at the front. Studs have no recess hex to install/ remove, so double nutting is the clever plan there- then the nuts seize to the stud because they are made of SHYT.
AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



