Hi , have now started to take out the 425 from the Dynamic 88 and there will be many
questions about this project . I,m planning to look at this in the winter and soon move
the engine to a warm space

The engine starts easy , no noise , have oil pressure and no heat issues. But zero compression
in cyl no 5. Have checked with air pressure in the sparkplug hole , both valves closed and air
comes thru the oilfiller tube from the crankcase. It has new timing chain/gears , gaspump and
carb.

Hope the cylinderwall not has damage , hope i can keep the 425 in the car and get it going without
to much cost.

Where do you take the lifting points ? These 5/16 unc where the carb is mounted maybe to weak.
Better to use some of the 3/8 manifold bolts ?

 

You can lift it using a 2BBL carb lift plate on the center of the intake where the carb bolts to the intake or find a set of OEM lift brackets which attach to the intake bolts where I circled in yellow.

 

Thanks , should se if i can get this .

 

I saved some lovely pictures of a 425 being yanked out of a '67 Toronado. I believe this is BSeigPaint's car and it shows the attachment points for the engine hoist very well.

 

Very nice pic , thanks . Should be nice to get the engine out and good cleaning.

 

Today my brother and i lifted out the 425 from the Dynamic , using the tractor with the hydraulic crane.

So now i should clean the engine before i move it to a warm place to have it during the winter.

Yes the three legged engine stands are a little dangerous but i bolted a wood to the front leg. Have wood
under the stand to save the wheels in the gravel.

 

Good to know that you got the engine removed.

If you put compressed air in cylinder #5 and heard it leaking from the crankcase that means your rings are worn. You could do a cylinder leak down test, but removing the heads will show you more.

 

The gauge shoes nothing in that cylinder , have not seen any damage in the cylinder using boroskop.

 

I have a question about removing the distributor to take of the manifold , i have the engine at cyl no 1 TDC
at the flywheel and distributor pointing at cyl 1 in the cap. Must i turn the whole distributor to a specifik place
to be able to lift it out from the engine ?? Was thinking to install it again as soon the manifold are off the engine.

Have not see nothing about this in the Oldsmobile Chassies manual.

 

This is how far i can lift the distributor
Feels like it hits something metal. The
manual says to lift it up and be aware off
the position the rotor has when it
stops move and just lift it up.

Do not want to use any force .

 

You don't have to remove the distributor to get the intake manifold off. If you want to remove the distributor just pull, what you're feeling is the distributor gear mesh with the the back of the cam. The distributor is only retained with 1 bolt and the plate.

 

Thanks Jesse , should give it a try again. This is what the chassies manual says about the 425.

 

As it mentions here, you don't have to remove the distributor to get the intake manifold off. Reinstalling the intake manifold with the distributor in the car can be a PITA.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...nifold-152542/

 

The oil pump driveshaft is stuck in the distributor gear. The reason the shaft won’t come off is because Oldsmobile presses a clip on the driveshaft, the drops the shaft into the engine, then the oil pump is bolted in place. The clip is captured between the oil pump and the main cap. The ONLY purpose the clip serves to the keep the driveshaft from falling out as the engine winds its way thru the assembly line. Kinda like the clips the automakers put on wheel studs to keep drums and rotors from falling off.

You might need to get a little aggressive with the distributor to get it out. The clip will eventually slide off the end of the shaft and fall into the oil pan. It won’t hurt anything in there, it’s no big deal. But as others mentioned, the distributor doesn’t need to be removed to get the intake off.

 

Thanks for yours info and thread , i should remove the intake with the distributor still in the engine.
Very nice to have this forum and get answers

 

Hi the intake came off rather easy and it looked clean under the turkey trey
But the cylinderbore and piston donīt look nice at all



Have not checked the valves in the head yet but suspect damage . So it looks like a
engine rebuild or another engine.

 

Took off the right head today and a little marks on the 8 piston also but could not feel any
scratches or marks in the cylinderwalls , only in no 5. Called a company that rebuilds
engines today and a total rebuild of the engine are very expensive here.

There was no problem if i wanted to rebore only cyl 5 and get the other cyl honing ( ? )
and new rings. The cylinders has not been worked on earlier , stock bore. What do
you think about this ? Should check all pistons first and if it,s possible to buy only
one piston.

There were also clogged waterchannels at 6 and 8.

 

Almost guaranteed the other cylinders need bored over as well.

 

You might be able to get away with a hone and re-ring. 🤞

 

I should consider a rebore in all cylinders and a
set of oversize pistons.

 

Glenn - I think a rebore of all cylinders w/ oversize pistons is the best option.

 

Depending upon the condition of the other bores, a sleeve in #5 and a good used piston may work. The pistons should have a part # on the underside. If you do get a full rebuild be careful to get advice specific to Olds from forum members. I'm guessing engine rebuilders in your region don't have a lot of Olds experience.

 

Thanks for advise should continue to take the engine apart , hoping to have the engine back in the car next spring/summer. The car and engine is not located at the same place. Taking a lot of pics and try to have the parts a little organized , made a wood rack for the lifters.



Was also thinking to replace the brake mastercylinder to a dual. Replaced this in my 98 and was satisfied how the brakes work.
But this is a later issue.

 

Have you identified a machine shop yet?

 

Yes we have one about 100km from here and that
machine shop has rebuild all kinds of engines for 45 years . They have many V8 customer and have also helped friends with enginework.

 

Glenn - One hour away isn't bad at all.

 

One hour is very good Norm . Removed the oilpan today and found this in the bottom of the pan.



Suspect old valve sealings and can the light brown be from the old timing gear ?

Removed also piston from cyl 5 today and it looked like this

 

Is the cylinder damaged?

 

Yes to the valve seals and nylon camshaft gear teeth fragments.

 

Yes but i hope it can be rebored.

 

^^x2^^

 

I don't work on engine cylinders enough to know what I'm viewing. I'm a novice when viewing cylinders but it looks like that cylinder contains a cylinder sleeve?

 

Here is a little better pic .

 

Perhaps you can get some of the new Mahle pistons and rings:

New size/spec Mahle piston kit - ClassicOldsmobile.com

 

Thanks for the link Tri-Carb . I heard the machineshop mentioned Egge pistons.
Should check the link.

 

Check post 20 here:

piston clearance - ClassicOldsmobile.com

 

Sorry to see that , Glenn. I wonder if a ring broke and then pieces ground into piston/wall and mangled everything up? Yep correct way is to get all cylinders bored, but? If cylinder isn't too bad maybe it can be honed?? And if so get a new or used 425 piston? Wait- I did it!! I bought a 2002 Ford Van with a piston knock due to a mechanic dropping a 1/4 " socket down plug hole and starting engine--(yes it is true, long story). Anyway I took apart engine- went on ebay and found a guy selling 4.6 Ford used pistons/rods. I just put engine back together with a used piston and rings and one new connecting rod bearing. We then took that van on a 9,000 mile trip across country and had no problems!! Did use about a quart of oil every 2000 miles. In the case of the Ford, standard pistons weren't available new so it would require all new oversize pistons and boring, etc. Can you get a standard new or used 425 piston- doubtful... Boy I imagine cost of rebore- new pistons, rebuild, etc over there would be astronomical!!

 

https://www.us.mahle.com/media/usa/m...5-flat-top.pdf
Here is the actual link to the .030" Mahle pistons in their catalog. Egge aren't cheap either but just basic cast pistons. The Mahle are coated, forged, much lighter and have a 1mm/1mm/2mm file fit ring pack included.

 

What octane fuel is available in your region and what method is used to calculate the octane rating? I'm asking because fuel availability should be considered when considering new piston selection and compression ratio. The Olds high compression ratio is part of those engine's soul; but, if the fuel isn't available to support the high compression it may need to be lowered.

I'm by no means an expert on piston selection but hope that by raising the compression ratio/fuel availability question a member with knowledge will offer advice.

 

Thanks for your answers

Intresting thread Tri-Carb

Greg the cost for a full rebuild are about 60.000 Sek or about $ 6400. Nice that
the Ford van worked with used parts. I donīt think the cylinder can be honed

Should check the Mahlelink , Olds 307 and 403 .

I think measurement for octane here are RON Research Octane Number and we have 95 and 98 in our
gaspumps. 95 E10 and 98 E5. Always use the 98 octane fuel. I have read that our 95 octane are like
your 90 octane if this is correct.