I hope you can save it, those 425"s are great motors and built right they can have a little rev in them!

 

Yes i hope so also therobski , the 425 in my 98 feels nice to drive

 

If you take the block to the machinist you can ask. What you'd have to do is measure the concentricity of the cylinders with a dial bore gauge and compare that to the size you'd need post honing for standard rings.

 

Yes Jesse , should take the block to the shop so they can check and measure the block

 

MAW buy your own dial bore gauge. Don't forget, "he who dies with the most tools wins!"

 

 

Have all the pistons out now



Could se a little more wear and tear on the crankshaft at no 7 and 8 so i think the machineshop should take a look att this.



Wow how much stuff there was in the oil screen and there was more in the screen than pic shows. But have not
seen the oilpressure light come on when engine running.



Took apart the oilpump and there was also wear and tear on the gears in the pump so i think i replace it with a new Melling std.

 

Rather standard when the nylon coating (cladding) gets all busted up in the original gear set. See it often. Resembles something you ate the night before while drinking mass quantities of alcohol & you're now looking at it in the commode.

 

Yes have seen that

 

Now i think the block are ready for the machine shop. I keep the crankshaft in the block so they can examine it. Should remove the starter ring gear / flywheel ( ?? ) before we go to the shop.

 

Leave the flywheel on the engine. The machinist will need it to balance everything.

 

I'd note with photos the location of three threaded oil galley plugs, two in the front by the timing chain and one in the distributor hole. Remove them and reinstall them yourself exactly where they came from. It isn't rare for Olds engines to have low oil pressure or starvation at the distributor gear due to these being left out or being installed in the wrong location.

 

Jeff - Wow, good on you. Great advice.

 

Thanks for tip about flywheel and gallery plugs.
Have removed the two fronts , the left had the hole
clogged. The plug in the distributor hole must be the hexagon and access to this must be thru the
plug behind the flywheel ?



I think i let this plug stay in the engine , i can see with a flashlight that the hole is open.

 

Wow how much crap it was behind the freezeplug , this is between 5 and 7 . More between 6 and 8 but not so much. Can't imagine how this should look in my 98 engine

 

Read post #12 in this link.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...removal-85064/

I wouldn't be comfortable leaving the plug in place as it would limit cleaning that galley.

Is there cracking starting around the part that the plug goes into?

 

Thanks for link Sugar Bear yes you are right best to remove it. I removed it thru the distributor hole and washed off the stripes on the block

 

Even if the machine shop cleans the block I'd suggest a very close inspection afterwards and recleaning as necessary.

 

Yes i should do that there was a lot of crap in gallery were the plug is. More than the other side.

 

I need to replace the oilpump driveshaft but not sure how it sits in the distributor, is the outer ring threaded to hold the shaft ? Have looked in the Olds manual but not find the answer.

 

It is a slip fit. Pull on it and it should come out.

 

Ok thanks , should pull harder and se if it comes out

Ps worked fine Kenneth.

 

Preparing to lift out the crankshaft. That grey sludge came when loosing the bolts , from the
bearings maybe , hmm.

 

Was at the machineshop with the block a couple of days ago , they should try 0,030" in cyl no 5 and se if
this was enough. And then bore the other cyl also. Should send EGGE pistons a mail and ask if ring end
gap are preset or if every ring needs to be adjusted , hmmm.

Looked att the bearings in no 7 and 8 connecting rods , they were stamped like this :

Number 7 upper bearing 7378 GMM400 324R4
under bearing 7378 GMM400 324R4

Number 8 upper bearing 7378 GMM400 296F
under bearing 7378 GMM400 296F4

Maybe it,s possible to se if these are std size ?

And the grey sludge around the bolts in the pic above was just old oil they said.

 

X2 on the gray sludge being old oil, seen it before on engines of that vintage.

Good chance the bearings are standard, others may know by the part #'s. Did they measure the crankshaft? Does it need to be resurfaced?

 

Hi , i had the block back on my truck at this time and can take the crankshaft in my stationwagon a little later. There was a lot of engines there

Here is a pick of number 7 and 8 bearings. The other bearings look better. I can se some wear at
the crankshaft but not so much.



Nummer 7 on top and 8 below

 

Should do some cleaning of the heads and also try to repair the right exhaust manifold ( if possible )

 

Time for a different manifold Glenn. I'll bet you can get one in wanted parts section.

 

Yes Greg , maybe i try to weld the cast iron first but it´s nice to have the forum and the ads
for buying parts. Was out today in the rain and washed off the heads so now they look much better
after they coming in to the warm place. So next should all the valves out , have only seen one
valveseal yet .

The crankshaft seal in the back of the engine was like rope ( ? ? ) style , not rubber. And the intake
manifold has the "turkey tray" , have read that common type of gaskets also been used instead.
Don´t know what is best to use. And the headgaskets was thin metalstyle :

 

Glenn - Sounds like typical OEM parts. The rear main seal was, in fact, rope - not rubber. Original OEM intake manifold gasket was the turkey tray. I'm not sure about the cylinder head gasket. It "appears" to be a Victor Reinz gasket. They make many gaskets. I don't know if they made original OEM gaskets for GM Oldsmobile or if you have an after market (post production) replacement Victor Reinz gasket. Others w/ more engine knowledge will know. I used a (new) aftermarket Victor Reinz intake manifold gasket on my 350.

 

Hi Norm ok never heard of Victor Reinz gaskets before. Not sure if i should use a turkey tray or not ,
was the thoughts that the tray should protect the cam from debris falling down maybe , hmm. I need to
check for a good set of gaskets.

 

Turkey trays are generally good, though I had a problem with one in my 350. It wasn't punched right but I think that is fixed now. The idea of the tray is to keep oil from splashing up on the hot exhaust crossover in the intake manifold and getting all crusted up - falling crud into engine, etc.

 

Glenn - What Gregg said regarding splashing oil. The gasket you have pictured is likely an original "VICTOR" cylinder head gasket. I'm not 100% if VICTOR produced/manufactured that gasket as an original OEM GM gasket for Oldsmobile. My suspicion says it's the original GM OEM cylinder head gasket. VICTOR (they were brothers) was supposedly the world's first manufacturer of cylinder head gaskets (based/established in 1909 - Chicago, Illinois) - supplying primarily the United States/North American market. (Victor) REINZ was a leading manufacturer of automotive/industrial gaskets based/established in Germany (1920) supplying gaskets to the European market(s). (Charles) Dana Corporation (established 1929, Toledo, Ohio) merged both VICTOR and REINZ into the Victor Reinz corporation (1993).

On a side note. Clarence Spicer (from New Jersey) invented the encased universal joint (C.W. Spicer [1904]) "revolutionizing power transmission in early automobiles", and grew under Charles Dana (New York City, New York). Victor Reinz is (today) owned by the Dana Corporation. The Dana Corporation began as the C.W. Spicer company when Charles Dana invested into the C.W. Spicer company (1904).

You can find replacement gaskets from Victor Reinz, Mahle/Clevite, Felpro & Enginetech.

 

Thank you both for your intresting info about this. Very intresting to read . So there will be an turkey tray
here again. But this maybe not necessary when the heat riser in the exhaust manifold is removed ?? But
some hot exhaust may slip thru the intake manifold anyway.
Have also seen recommendations to have a little rtv around the water ports.

 

Here are some pics of the old turkey trey , rtv on both sides and around all the ports. Cleaning heads and valves for now.



Maybe been leaking thats why there is so much rtv ?

 

Here is a pic of the valveseal in the head , only 3 left. But the size of the seat are much larger than the valve guide in the head , hmm.
Is it supposed that the seal should ride with the stem up and down ? I was thinking they should press over the valve guide.

 

Now the block is rebored and 0,030" worked fine. New cambearings should be installed and all
oil channels and gallery will be cleaned. Was at the shop yesterday with the crankshaft who will
be resurfaced and balanced. He just looked at the crankshaft and said it need to be resurfaced.
They should also measure up the connection rods .

 

I know that was expensive, but you are going to have a strong engine for years to come!

 

Yes i hope so Greg i,m planning to keep the cam and lifters. I should check the galleries when
i get the engine back but this was known at the machineshop. It is also a nice oppoturnety to mount
a dual mastercylinder when the engine is out and easy access to the distribution block

 

Glenn - Indeed, it will be.