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Some pics of the engine , the block was very clean and also in the gallery in both sides. New
cambearings mounted with a hydraulic tool and the cam fits nice.
The water jackets are very clean also and thats nice
The surface on the crankshaft looks a lot better now.
And forged pistons 0,030", all crankshafts have their location in the engine marked.
Engine balanced .
Gasket set , freeze plugs , all bearings ( 0,010" ) and Clevite mounting oil were included.
Hmmm , mounted the crankshaft to the block yesterday with new bearings and 80 ft lbs on
1 , 2 , 3 , 4 and 120 ft lbs on rear no 5. But i must
use some power to turn the crankshaft , hard to
know whats normal with new bearings . All parts
are lubricated.
New rope style of seal in the rear , Fel Pro gasket set.
Hmmm , mounted the crankshaft to the block yesterday with new bearings and 80 ft lbs on
1 , 2 , 3 , 4 and 120 ft lbs on rear no 5. But i must
use some power to turn the crankshaft , hard to
know whats normal with new bearings . All parts
are lubricated.
New rope style of seal in the rear , Fel Pro gasket set.
Use a bolt on the front of the crankshaft and a torque wrench to measure resistance. Then loosen #5 and re-check resistance. If it turns over much easier, its the rope seal causing the resistance.
Thanks for answer , i should contact the machineshop tomorrow and se if they check this .
It was impossible to move the crankshaft pulling the weights and a lot of force on the bolt
to move the crank
Thanks for answer , i should contact the machineshop tomorrow and se if they check this .
It was impossible to move the crankshaft pulling the weights and a lot of force on the bolt
to move the crank
Had 80 ft lb on 1,2,3,4 and 120 ft.lb on no 5.
Did the machine shop install the rope seal, install the bearings and crankshaft ? "A lot of force on the bolt" is how many lbs/ft of torque ?
No we installed these parts ourselves very carefully , the crankshaft was loose from the block.
I have the caps loose now so i did not measure the force but we both was thinking someting
must be wrong here.
Thanks for answer , i should contact the machineshop tomorrow and se if they check this .
It was impossible to move the crankshaft pulling the weights and a lot of force on the bolt
to move the crank
Had 80 ft lb on 1,2,3,4 and 120 ft.lb on no 5.
Originally Posted by OLDSter Ralph
Did the machine shop install the rope seal, install the bearings and crankshaft ? "A lot of force on the bolt" is how many lbs/ft of torque ?
Originally Posted by GCH
No we installed these parts ourselves very carefully , the crankshaft was loose from the block.
I have the caps loose now so i did not measure the force but we both was thinking someting
must be wrong here.
Since you installed everything, the machine shop won't know if YOU installed things CORRECTLY.
Check the torque needed with a torque wrench to measure lbs/ft to turn the engine now that its loose.
YOU can still torque one main cap at a time, starting with #1 and measure the lbs/ft of torque to turn the engine with the crankshaft bolt.
Ditch the rope seal and use the Fel-pro BS40032 or BS40654. They are listed as Ford 429/460 rear crankshaft oil seal but are the correct application for use in all Oldsmobile 2nd generation "big block" motors, 400, 425, 455. There is no need to do anything with the serrations on the rear of the crankshaft so don't worry about them. We have been using these Fel-pro seals in our Olds motors ever since they came on the market with no leakage.
Thanks for input . I talked to the machineshop yesterday and they would like to have the engine back so they
could check this out . I should bring the pistons with rings mounted and the connection rods also and se if they could
mount these in the engine at the same time. So i should visit them tomorrow when it,s better weather.
Before we left to the machine shop i removed the ropeseal and tried and it seem to be the ropeseal that
causing this . But i should order a Fel - pro BS 40032 instead , thanks.
When you insert the Fel-Pro rear main seal, offset the parting line slightly so it does not match up with the main cap parting line. About 1/4" or 5mm is a good offset.
The pistons are mounted now and should continue with the camshaft drive and waterpump , then oilpump and oilpan
Should se if i can buy the red Olds engine colour somewere.
Hi , waiting for the heads now , everyting goes slow but a lot of other things to do also. Looking for a
dual mastercylicer for the car , i saw Rock Auto have Dorman and Dynamic Friction for Cadillac -65
I have used the stock replacement nylon plastic umbrella valve seals such as those furnished with most gasket kits on my single valve spring builds with no problem. They are far superior to the old rubber umbrella seals which would eventually crumble from heat and age. My personal preference is to use the shorter umbrella seal (exhaust seal) on the intake and no seal on the exhaust valve stems!
Yes Norm , the seals in the old one was really bad . Should order a dual MC from US , much cheaper then buying
here . I saw RA had Dynamic Friction and Dorman to choose on their website. I purshaded a Raybestos MC 36-373
to the 98 but don´t se this on RA anymore.
I saw RA had Dynamic Friction and Dorman to choose on their website. I purshaded a Raybestos MC 36-373
to the 98 but don´t se this on RA anymore.
Glenn - All manufacturing of Raybestos brake parts—including pads, rotors, and calipers—has completely stopped.
Its parent company, First Brands Group, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy and failed to find a buyer to sustain the manufacturing of brake components.
Retailers like BuyBrakes are selling off remaining warehouse inventory, but once these supplies are exhausted, the brand will no longer produce new components.
Glenn - I punched in your numbers and this was the response from BuyBrakes.
Thank you for clarifying! You're looking to upgrade from your single master cylinder to a dual master brake cylinder for improved braking safety and performance.
Unfortunately, based on my search, the available master cylinder product for your 1965 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 is currently discontinued, which limits options through our standard inventory.
However, given that you're performing an upgrade on a classic 1965 vehicle, I strongly recommend contacting our expert Customer Support team. They have extensive knowledge about classic car brake systems and may be able to help you find:
Alternative master cylinder solutions that are in stock
Compatible upgrade options for your specific application
Thanks Norm I wrote in this thread a couple minutes ago and when i should post it that Cloudfare
sh#t erased the whole thing Let,s se if it works now you never know.
Got this pics from the machineshop yesterday and they showed how uneven ?? the heads was. But the heads are
machined nice now. Waiting for a couple of valves from US because 2 valves in a box was wrong size. Ordering
valves from US , less expensive than buying them here.
. I talked to the machineshop yesterday and they would like to have the engine back so they
is this the offset you was thinking about 67AOL ?
Let,s se if it works now 
