394 locked up
#1
394 locked up
Guys,
I need some advice. I am working on my 62 super 88 and have followed many of yours advice. It has been sitting for 20 years and I have neglected it. It was under cover, but still subject to too much humidity. I pulled all 8 plugs and shot PB Blaster and Marvel in each hole and waited for a couple of hours. It would not turn with a breaker bar. I removed the radiator and the fan so I could get a good tug on it and still nothing. The crank bolt is 1 & 1/8th. Seems big to me, but does allow me to get a good grab on it.
My plan is to return with enough Marvel to fill up the cylinders and get oil all over the top of the piston. Due to the v, I am sure that the ammount I have in now is not close to covering the top of the piston. Then I was going to let it sit for a couple of weeks. If that does not do it, I am afraid the car is done. Even though it has only 34k on it, doing a complete engine on a 4 door car does not make alot of sense.
If you have any other tips or advice for getting it loose, please let me know.
Thanks for the help, Scott
I need some advice. I am working on my 62 super 88 and have followed many of yours advice. It has been sitting for 20 years and I have neglected it. It was under cover, but still subject to too much humidity. I pulled all 8 plugs and shot PB Blaster and Marvel in each hole and waited for a couple of hours. It would not turn with a breaker bar. I removed the radiator and the fan so I could get a good tug on it and still nothing. The crank bolt is 1 & 1/8th. Seems big to me, but does allow me to get a good grab on it.
My plan is to return with enough Marvel to fill up the cylinders and get oil all over the top of the piston. Due to the v, I am sure that the ammount I have in now is not close to covering the top of the piston. Then I was going to let it sit for a couple of weeks. If that does not do it, I am afraid the car is done. Even though it has only 34k on it, doing a complete engine on a 4 door car does not make alot of sense.
If you have any other tips or advice for getting it loose, please let me know.
Thanks for the help, Scott
#2
If the marvel does not work remove the heads should be only a couple of real bad ones that had open valves for the 20 years. The interior looks good are the floors and trunk solid ? That car is worth a bit of work If it is still stuck the old shade tree mechanic way is to pull the engine remove the crank take out the piston's that are loose spray thrust on the bad ones and use a wood block to drive them out through the bottom of the block.
#3
Fill the crankcase and cylinders with diesel fuel. I've heard it works well to loosen a siezed engine, plus it is cheaper than 5 quarts of Marvel Mystery oil. You should also remove the distributor and pump the diesel fuel through the engine with the oil pump. This will force it into the oil galleys, lifters, and valve train. Let it sit for over a week and pump the diesel fuel with the oil pump at least twice a day for about 5 minutes.
#5
Wow, There are some things I had not thought of. Diesel fuel? Make sense I guess. Prying on the flywheel gives way more leverage than on the crank bolt. Drill on the oil pump is also a good idea to get lube running inside the whole engine. I have done that many times to prelube a new engine. Does a 394 oil pump drive off the end of the distributor like a Chevy? Thanks for the advice and keep any other ideas coming. I do not want to give up on it, it is a very solid car.
#7
Still soaking
I have filled the cyliders with Diesel fuel. I plan to let it sit for a week. I can not get the disributor out or turn it. Not a good sign! any ideas on ways to nudge the distributor out? I am going to get under the car and use the bar on the flywheel as has been suggested. Is it possible to get one this stuck moving?
#8
You can get PB Blaster from an auto parts store and soak the base of the distributor. Remove the spark plug wires and cap and rotor so you can get to the distributor easier. Also, make sure you remove the distributor clamp before trying to remove it. If it is on there you will never get it off.
#9
See if you can work out a deal on this one.
I've purchased several parts from F-85 and all were as described.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...jim-trans.html
I've purchased several parts from F-85 and all were as described.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...jim-trans.html
#10
Thanks Olds 64. I do have the hold down off and have sprayed PB on it. I guess I will have to let it sit some more. I will remove the carb so I have better access. I want to get the distributor out so I can start flushing with the oil pump as you suggested.
J-Chicago, thanks for the link on the other 394. I want to use mine if I can since all components and #'s are original to the car. If not, I may give him a shout.
Thanks again guys. Have either of you ever used a Stanley type bar on the lower end gear teeth to free one up?
J-Chicago, thanks for the link on the other 394. I want to use mine if I can since all components and #'s are original to the car. If not, I may give him a shout.
Thanks again guys. Have either of you ever used a Stanley type bar on the lower end gear teeth to free one up?
#12
It's free!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks to all of your help, the old 394 will now turn. It took the Diesel fuel and the Flat Stanley bar thru the inspection plate, but it moved. I have filled it back full and am going to work on the distributor now. I want to get it out so I can use a drill to flow the oil and diesel thru the whole engine. I really appreciate your help on this. I was sure it was off to the crusher!
#13
Thanks to all of your help, the old 394 will now turn. It took the Diesel fuel and the Flat Stanley bar thru the inspection plate, but it moved. I have filled it back full and am going to work on the distributor now. I want to get it out so I can use a drill to flow the oil and diesel thru the whole engine. I really appreciate your help on this. I was sure it was off to the crusher!
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1964super88
Eighty-Eight
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July 25th, 2014 07:42 AM