What would be the preferred order of inspection/replacement to try to tighten up loose steering(no shaking). I assume that wheel bearings might be the first...followed by tie rod ends? I know the steering wasn't that tight when new, but I'd like to tighten it up as much as possible. Although there isn't any shaking, I think it could have a little less play in it.

Thanks...

 

Like you said, check:
Wheel bearings
Upper/lower ball joints
idler arm
inner/outer tie rods
center link
inspect upper/lower control arm bushings
replace front sway bar links
replace front sway bar bushings

Do you know how to do this stuff yourself or are you going to farm it out?

If your car is really high miles? It could be the gearbox but I'd start with all the easy things that cost less to do first.

 

I can do the work myself, I just wanted to know what the recommended sequence might be in an effort to stop when I was happy with the way the car handled. I realize handling is a combination of many items, but don't like replacing parts and finding it had no positive effect afterwards.

thanks.....

 

Understood. That's pretty much the sequence I gave you.

 

look at upper ball joints and see if they are riveted or bolted on.
Kinda gives an estimate on if anything has been replaced.
usually at 100,000 miles everything should be replaced.
jack the front end up and move the wheel up and down and left and right and look for where any play might be coming from.
usual stuff would include,ball joints,inner and out tie rod ends,center link,idler arm,and a set of shocks.
Not really that expensive if you do the labor yourself,especially since your tires will last much longer with correct geometry.
I'm guessing $300 total parts expenditure.

 

If you want to make it better than original send the gear box into Power Steering Services and have them convert it to a fast ratio 12.7:1 http://www.powersteering.com

 

Or just install a 1990's Jeep Grand Cherokee box from the junkyard.

There are good threads on this both here and on Chevelles dot com.

- Eric

 

Also the alignment will effect how well it drives.

 

The symptoms you provided were identical to my Pontiac. I just replaced the center link and had the wheels re-balanced. It drives 100% better.

 

X2. Not having enough toe-in can give you the feeling of sloppy steering or wandering. If you don't find any worn parts, you can check toe-in without taking it to an alignment shop. Just spin the tires and scribe a line around then with a pointed object. A board with a nail sticking out on the floor will work fine for this. Then, with the car setting on the ground, use a something like a 1x2 board and mark the distance between the scribed lines on the front side and again on the back side of the tire. The distance on the front should be about 1/8 to 3/16 less than the distance on the backside. This is how it was done when Heck was a pup before fancy computer alignment machines were invented.

 

A quicker ratio steering box in my car really tightened everything up & greatly improved on-center feel.

 

do a little homework and find a later model year box for quicker steering that is newer and is available.

 

Most alignment shops will tell you what you need and a free estimate.
Just sit down before reading it, and consider how much you'll save by doing it yourself!

 

Just out of curiosity, how do they do a 4 wheel alignment on an old RWD car? I didn't think they could because there's no adjustment points on the rear suspension that I know of.

 

Yup.

All they can do is tell your frame / linkage is bent.

- Eric

 

You can also try tightening the steering box some. They tend to wear over time. Only go about an 1/8-1/4 turn on the Allen wrench and test drive. If the steering does not return to center pretty much on its own after making a turn it is too tight. You can also jack up the front end and tighten then turn the wheels side to side off center. You should feel a slight drag when you come off center when the box is adjusted properly. I am not that good at telling and prefer the test drive method. If the steering box is loose you will have what feels like a lot of play in the front end.

Definitely check the ***** joints, tie rods, etc first as they can be a safety concern if bad.

 

I always use the KISS method, and for this that would be looking at the rag joint first. I have changed a few, really tightens steering up if it was bad.
And I agree with Chuck on http://www.powersteering.com . Chip did my box and pump, sold me new hoses, sent it all back detailed and ready to bolt on. Was it Cheap? No. Did he charge too much? No. Not in my opinion, I am as cheap minded as the next guy, but in this case money did buy happiness. I am completely satisfied and would definitely do the same thing again.

 

They just do the fronts and charge you for all four.
This is why in the past, I would only go to a shop that offered 2-wheel alignments.
Now days I just use my handy dandy alignment jig.