One thing to be aware of with front wheel bearings, especially if you've correctly packed them with grease, is that they will not completely seat the first time you tighten the spindle nut. I usually have to tighen the nut down hard while turning the rotor until the rotor won't turn any more, then back off and readjust. This ensures that the grease gets squeezed out to where it's supposed to be and the rollers are riding on the inner and outer races, not on a layer of grease.

 

————————————————————————————————————————————— ——



I am going to take a leap here and guess that you didn't:

1. While rotating hub assembly, tighten nut to 30 ft.lbs.
2. Back off nut ½ turn.
3. Retighten nut finger tight and install retaining ring or cotter pin.

If that is the case, then you need to do those things, as instructed in the Chassis Service Manual.
I will go out on a limb and say that that was probably all you needed to do in the first place.

As has been alluded to repeatedly, through this thread, go adjust your wheel bearings.

- Eric

 

Thanks for the directness. I got the nut to 30ft lbs, backed off 1/2 turn, re-tightened the nut fight tight, installed cotter pin. Wheel still moves so I think its safe to say its not the wheel bearing and probably never was. Got free time, jacked it up and took more videos to show my symptoms from under the car.

https://youtu.be/fbB8HdyKsHg (just one side).
https://youtu.be/21IjRBb2oOo (full video shot).

 

Its best to check the front end steering with the car on the ground, not jacked up. Use a pry bar and check for play on the Idler arm and centre link. Just pull on the tie rods to check.
Now, You could check the ball joints with it up off the ground, using a pry bar under the tire, try to pry the tire up and let it down to view any ball joint play. Or man handle the tire pulling it up and trying to rock the tire.

Eric

 

I had it jacked up to really see the workings more then anything. I manually was trying to move tie rods to try to find anything lose or with play. I swear, I'm not as incompetent as I'm probably looking!

 

First problem: you still don't have the front suspension supported under the lower control arms to take the load off the ball joints. Do that before wasting your time checking again.

Second problem: the idler arm is shot. That's painfully obvious in the video

Third problem: the inner tie rod ends appear to be shot, though that is less clear due to the excessive motion from the worn idler arm

Fourth problem: it also appears that your steering box lower pitman arm bushing is shot, but again, hard to tell with the slop from the idler arm.

 

I agree, idler arm, inner tie rod ends (maw outers as well they're inexpensive), centerlink (not pitman arm) are shot. Again as Joe said, support the car by the lower control arms. I place the jack stands directly under the front shocks, then pry under the front tire and see how much play is in the ball joints. Also inspect the upper and lower control arm bushings as explained in my previous post.

 

The video's shows play as it should with the car up off the ground and turning the tires left to right.
But its hard to say, you'll need to check with a pry bar, pry a little up and down on the centre link, then idler arm and work your way over side to side and post that video.

Eric

 

For tie rod ends and steering components I only raise one side and shake wheel side to side. You can also leave both on the ground and have someone turn steering wheel and see the play in each component.

 

Okay, my turn.

I just took a good look at the videos.
What I'm seeing is the pitman arm into the centerlink looking really bad (Video #1) and the left inner tie rod arm into the centerlink looking pretty bad (Video #2).

Other things may be bad, too, but on a video, it's hard to tell.

Aside from jacking under the control arms to check the ball joints, which you really need to do, the way I primarily check for play is to lie under the car while my assistant wiggles the steering wheel back and forth (like a couple of inches of hand movement in each direction, constantly, until I say to stop), while I go along every connection, one at a time, and both look and feel - I look for relative motion between two parts (they should move as though they are one part), and then I feel for the same thing, by wrapping my hand around the joint in question and seeing whether I can feel even the slightest relative movement or "clunk" sensation.

You'll like the car a lot more when this stuff is ironed out.

- Eric

 

I'm absolutely with MD on this, center link at the pitman arm and either the lt inner tie rod or the centerlink hole where it attaches is bad. I really don't see a bad idler arm...but yeah...it's hard to tell in a video. I think if the car was on the ground and you had somebody move the steering wheel you could tell more.

 

NOW I see the idler arm. A lot of stuff going on under there!

 

^^^THIS! I like to place my finger across the joint in question. You can immediately feel if both parts are moving together or if one is moving relative to the other. The latter should not be happening.

 

I'll put my money down on a bad centre link and Idler arm. Oh wait just a minute now, my wife says "I have no money" damit!!
Put-r-ther,... God lover!!

Eric

 

Alot of play with the idler arm and center link at the pitman, i would replace all components and have a new fresh start.

 

X2, If money isn't an issue. Your going to need an alignment anyway. Mark your old tie rods with a hacksaw mark, or paint marker on the threads. Sucks trying to count how many fine threads in or out they were. This will get you close before alignment.

Eric