I have play in my front wheel bearing(I'm pretty sure it's in the wheel bearing)I tightened it a little then put the wheel back on only to find it still had play.I took it a part every thing looks good as far as I can tell no pieces.So I toke the wheel off again and tightened it probably tighter than I should and it still has play.Is this normal? Or is some thing wrong?Can a tapered bearing wear to the point where it can't be tightened any more?
railguy

 

This is one of those times when doing it wrong can be catastrophic. You need to remove the rear seal, clean and inspect both bearings and races for wear. They will also need to be repacked with grease. There is a procedure for setting the preload, do you have a chasis manual or any kind of repair manual that covers your car?

 

When was the last time the wheel bearings were replaced? X2 on ^^^, I'd also want to clean off the spindle and see if there may be any damage to the spindle shaft as well. IIRC the inner and outer bearings are the same part number, and they're low cost items.

This is for you 74 Omega, right?

 

Sounds like you're at the point of replacing the front bearings and races to me. I've done this a few times, and don't recall it being much of job in the garage with basic hand tools. Biggest part is punching out the old races, and new ones back in. If not wanting to do this, many auto parts stores should be able to help.

 

perhaps you are seeing play elsewhere such as the ball joints?

No, the bearings will not have any slop when properly installed.

wrong bearings?

 

Thorough cleaning & inspection of the bearings, races & spindles would be a must. Repack & set your preload properly. Ball joints or tie rod ends might also be the problem.

 

I believe preload if tightening the big nut to 30 ft-lbs while turning the wheel, then loosen half a turn, then tighten again FINGER TIGHT while turning the wheel. Install washer and cotter pin, loosening slightly enought to get the pin in. Remember there may be two holes drilled in the spindle, so pick the one that the pin goes into first.
If it is still loose, and you know it is coming from the bearings, then it is time for replacement. It is pretty easy. Use a drift punch to remove old races, clean out old grease, and use a bearing race driver borrowed from a parts store to hammer in the new bearing races. Replace the rear seals, too. Pack bearings and hubs with high temp disc brake grease, assemble, preload, intall brakes, and you are done (if the MAWs stay away)!

 

One thing to add...after you retighten FINGER TIGHT, then you back off the nut ever so slightly so you can insert the cotter pin through the nut and spindle. The bearings should NEVER be even finger tight.

 

Thanks I think I'll just replace them both.I do have a manual I'll look at that never a cured to me,don't know why.It's not the ball joints I'm pretty sure I just replaced the upper control arm bushing and with the upper ball joint separated it's easy to tell.
thank railguy

 

If you grab the tire at 12:00 and 6:00 a loose bearing is "easy" to wiggle, while a bad ball joint is so hard that you need a piece of pipe to do it.

If you grab it at 9:00 and 3:00, a wiggle could also be a tie rod end, or other steering component.

You've got all the right pieces, including the thick washer, right?

- Eric

 

If you don't have a bearing driver use the old bearing instead, tap all round making sure the new one is going in square.

Roger.

 

FYI
I don’t know if this is or is not a concern for you. But I just did a front end (bearings/races & seals) and all of the big box and my favorite Delco small box parts house (especially disappointing) tried to sell me either India or China made parts! Really! Thats the only choices I had, period. Not happening on my watch. Thats way I always ask.
Im disgusted by now, so I called the local BDI branch (Bearing Dist Inc.) and inquired. They too offered the same crap but they also said “but wait we do offer American made bearings and seals for your car but they are a bit more money. I asked what’s a bit more mean….~$2 per part more! Really! So the total bill was increased a grand total of $12 to keep it all American…No brainer.
I speak from experience; offshore hard parts do not last. Not to mention the safety factor as they keep the front wheel where it’s supposed to be….on the car!
Just thought I'd share this in hopes that everyone thinks to ask the parts guy first “where’s it made”.
If you have the choice for a few lousy dollars you too can keep American parts in your American muscle cars.

 

I know how you fill.I have a 10 mm nut on my altanator and every time I take it off I think about filing it down to 3/8 in.
railguy

 

Not to be too much of a nit picker, but I do not mind buying bearings labeled "Slovakia" or "Slovenia."

A hundred years ago, a lot of our best machinists came from "over there," and were part of the reason we were able to develop our industrial capacity to where we could make the best stuff in the world, and plenty of it.

I agree completely on avoiding all that "far eastern" crap, but some of the eastern European countries do have the skills to do good machine and production work, now that the Bear isn't holding them down.

Why not take a 3/8" (outside dimension) nut and tap it to a 6mm thread?

- Eric

 

I heard somewehere that Porche, Mercedes and BMW make some pretty fair products...........

 

The concept of the VW bug as a simple reliable means of transport was born in 1930s Czechoslovakia, unfortunately the German chancellor at the time thought it was a good idea and took over the country, then got Dr Porsche to develop it.
Central Europe has indeed got a good history of fine engineering, Skodas have a fine reputation in Europe, are they for sale in the USA?.

"Made in Japan" used to mean poor quality copies a long time ago, now it means amongst the best in the world.

"Made in Britain" meant the standard of excellence once, maybe "Made in China/India" will have its turn in due course.

Roger.

 

Not to mention the more than frustration at trying to find anything with "Made in U.S.A." markings!

 

Dave, here's a question (honestly I'm just asking). Does 'Made in the USA' means its actually made there, or does it mean made elsewhere, distributed in USA, or components made elsewhere, assembled in USA? I don't know where the 'interpretation' of Made in USA starts or stops.

I really get confused by some of the claims. Reason I ask? I bought 'Made in USA' parts that some folks say is offshore just marketed through a distributor. I'd like to know the parts I bought support American workers.

 

To me, Made in the USA means it's actually made here. A lot of manufacturers that don't make things here will label them "Assembled in USA".

I do believe parts made in the USA are of better quality than that of parts made in China or other Asian countries...but, my whole reason for buying MADE IN THE USA parts is to keep jobs here in the country. Every time I buy anything, I look for where it's made. If there is an alternative that is made in USA I will pay more for it.

A perfect example: On our way back from San Antonio on Monday we stopped at a huge gas station called Buccee's. It's sort of a destination of it's own. We were looking at T-shirts but because they were all made in India and China we opted not to get one. And while Buccee's employs quite a few people at very high pay (for a gas station) we still would much rather see them sell USA stuff.

If the folks here in the US would practice this every day, eventually companies would see the demand shift to USA made parts. Hopefully, this would bring jobs back into the country...but I also understand some people aren't able to pay the prices of USA made things. IE Cometic head gaskets I just bought for $110 per side!

 

X2! to the 10th order ah64pilot X2!!!!
You have to be an educated consumer. The retailers are aware of this. I’ve seen packaging that says packaged in USA or assembled in USA etc...Close but not close enough for me. I walked into a big box home improvement store to purchase a sprinkler and hose...Nothing I mean nothing said USA anywhere. I am willing and frequently do pay more for good ole USA products. Mexico and Canada are ok. I’m wondering where the lumber comes from too...ridiculous thank all the greedy bean counters and others.
I had to recently search for a gas tank for 68 442. Most of the venders offer offshore. Really! Like I'm gonna put an offshore gas tank in that car. So I did manage to find a Canadian made tank which is fine…though $120 to ship a $180 tank hurts!

 

I also was in the same boat. The Spectra Premium GM34R is the tank I need. Made in Canada! I know it's good quality. When I checked Rock Auto for a price, it was $C 150 and $C 214 to ship. (US/Can $ are almost = so it's about par for me) But, still that hurts even more. So I called them (Spectra). They will ONLY sell to retailers. So I called my bud at NAPA and got him to order the SAME tank at my old discount rate. It retails for 340.00 up here (I don't know why because they make them here and ship them to the USA and sell them for about 1/2 that). Anyway - no shipping and 219. + tax. Still makes you shake your head and say hmmmm. 219 here 150 US hmmmmm.

Like you guys, I'm a strong supporter of the North American economy and workers. Problem is only ones who will really care are the few who really commit to buying American or Canadian. Sign of the times: people buy what they can afford; even if they buy lower quality and have to replace sooner. It's what they can afford NOW. I get that, just not happy about the way production has gone.

 

I like the stuff that says "proudly made in the USA" on the outer label, and then "made in china" on this inner label. Hacks me off big time...

 

I install handrails for a living and for a long time almost all the hand rail parts (except for the custom stuff) come from China.The lumber is shipped from the USA to China where it's milled boxed and shipped back.The fittings can be bought cheaper than the lumber its made out of!
Another thing that drives me up the wall is that ad for the Henry rifle where they brag it's made in America!Not USA but America.I wish I reach into the TV grab somebody.
railguy

 

All I can say is "Made in U.S.A." should mean what it says. Of course, these days that would be too logical.

 

Yes Allen its winds out being about $340 which includes the new straps. I'll have to give my local Delco retailer a buzz and see if they can come in a litttle cheaper with the shipping. Hell Im only an hour away from Canada. Next trip north I may come back with a tank instead of Molsen Bradors.

 

90 % of the bearings today are made in China -- and they have natural "wiggle" or "warpage" right from the "factory" (rice plant).....
8 % of the bearings are made in mexico -- and they are better but still....
Not an answer to any red-blooded American.......
2 % are the ONLY Bearings to use on a car that you care about ------
TIMKEN reopened their plant in North Carolina to reintroduce production of truly made U S A Bearings!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you, TIMKEN, and I keep them all in stock --------------
Craig ...... 516 - 485 - 1935 ....... New York......

 

Timken bearings and seals are what I put in my car too! NAPA and Partsource (Autozone in USA) have em in plentiful stock up here and they don't cost very much either. In this case quality and reliability doesn't cost an arm /leg!

 

Good to hear.

Be advised, I have purchased Timken bearings made in Slovenia in the past year.

- Eric