Well, after fixing the front main seal leak, rear main seal leak, power steering fluid leak (steering box assembly), I thought all was good. No leaks. Then the customer picks up the 55, takes it out on the highway (which I did not, I only test drove it around locally) and after a 20 mile cruise at about 70 mph, he stopped for fuel and notice a bunch of oil leaking under the car. I told him to bring it back as I pulled what hair I have left on my head, put it on the rack assuming something happened to the rear main seal, and it was dry, Upon further inspection, whomever restored the car and built the engine, never installed the road draft tube. Does anyone know where I can locate a road draft tube for a 324? And yes, I know this must be caused by blowby and crankcase pressure. Driving around town at lower speeds it just doesn't leak. I even had my wife get in the car with the engine running, and I lifted the car on the rack, and even had her give it about quarter throttle and I couldn't get it to leak. Any suggestions from the Olds Guru's here?

 

If you want to find an OE road draft tube you will have to locate a parts car. There is probably some parts interchange but I'm not sure what years or models you can search for.

 

There is a baffle of some sort missing, its not just the draft tube. I can't remember if the baffle was inside the block or outside the block. A draft tube would just keep the oil from running down the back of the block. I can't recall what was used back then, but some of the folks with 54-56 cars can perhaps fill in my missing memory. An illustrated parts manual or CSM may show it.

 

Some ideas. You might check with Charlie Jones or Ozzie on this site they both have Hollanders and could tell what years will interchange. 2BLU442 (John ) may have something as he is parting out a 55 and a 54 and has other engines of that era, he might have something for you.

To bypass the road draft all together I believe a soft plug will fit the hole that is missing where the road draft is bolted to. It will need to befitted with a vent tube and a length of hose that will be attached to ether the carb or the air cleaner. This was used a lot on worn engines that had blow by and oil stink in the cab back in the day.

As last resort shot in the dark and you can't get the job done I MAY have one but as I remember it was in tough shape plus I haven't seen or looked for it for over 20 years. I seldom throw away any engine parts so it should be in my 324 stuff but I have no idea right now where.... Tedd

 

The parts numbered 1762 are what you need ;



It is also shown here ;


And here ;


And this is the parts list ;

It appears that all 54 thru 58 road draft tubes will fit , except 58's with J-2 ( tri carb )
There were " standard " and " heavy duty " road draft tubes offered . The latter having a baffle chamber incorporated .

 

Thanks Charlie Jones! And everyone else that has provided input as well. I just located a nice one in Arkansas, and it is that exact part Charlie. I'm not sure what all may be missing in the engine, as I did not build it. Also, it only appears to leak at extreme highway speed, so I wouldn't doubt that it has blowby issues that I will share with the customer. I really like the PCV plug mod, as I think this would help and be a better route. But glad I found a tube nevertheless. Anyone know what size or P/N grommet I could use to plug hole with PCV valve and route to carburetor?

Thanks so Much!
Darren

 

I think you should be able to stick a finger inside the block to check for the 1.780 baffle. If I recall, its about the diameter of an ignition coil. The oil needs to remain inside the engine, either way. The "PVC line" to the air cleaner or carb could allow the liquid oil to drain back inside the engine, if the baffle is missing.
Thanks Charlie for the pictures, it refreshes my memory on the baffle.

 

Yes sir. I actually took a picture of the back of the block, and it appears the baffle is there.

 

Good news ! My next thought is.......... is it "clocked" to drain back in the block and NOT fill with oil ?

 

That's a dam good question. Do you know what the thread size is?

 

By looking at the small divider in the bottom of the baffle, can anyone tell me if the baffle is clocked/oriented correctly?

 

I am going to guess 3/8"-16 X 1 1/2" long. The other guys can probably give more than a guess. Find a bolt that screws in, so you don't lose it and you have to pull the intake to find it.

Can you see any slots or holes in the top or bottom ? "I would think" the drain holes/slots would be on the bottom. If someone has a better guess or a baffle laying around, that would be great. The CSM might be another source of info.