It still runs great, has 45 lbs of oil pressure, but its got a slight knock near the front. Also, someone put a #7 head on the drivers side years ago, has a #8 (correct) on the passenger side. So, I found this engine and crank and have building it up slowing since January. Once I have everything together, I will pull the engine and trans and re-install. Also, it leaks from the rear main pretty bad and the torus cover leaks, so eventually it needs to all come out anyway.

 

Went and looked at my cylinder heads today, almost done (no pics yet). They are looking good, new seats, guides and valves. They were milled .012, had the intake side milled .019. Can't wait to put them on.

My existing, presumed orginal block was V831688, so this one was about 65,000 before.

 

My heads are done, used stock springs, they checked out. New valves, seats, guides. They are #10 heads. Ironically my running 324 in my car bit the dust yesterday too, so it's coming out.

My machinist cut for a modern valve seal too. Will be nice with the new hardened seats now as well.

Now time for a mockup tonight for pushrod length. I am using a Best Gasket, .048 uncompressed /.044 compressed thickness. I won't torque them at all and give myself about .005 to compensate.

 

When assembling the rocker shafts to the heads, be careful. It is possible to install the shafts upside down. Then the oiling holes are facing the wrong way. I have not seen this myself, but have heard multiple stories on exactly this here on the forum.

Nicely done!

 

Yes for sure. I am making a tool to spin the oil pump once its all assembled, to verify oil pressure and the top end oiling. Thanks!

 

Don't worry about top end oiling too much.
These first gen engines don't oil the rockers in the same manner as later engines.
The oil is metered by a hole in the camshaft that only aligns every half turn.
The oil is carried thru the block and thru the head to one of the rocker stands to the shaft
The oil comes out of the shaft thru holes on the bottom where the rockers contact.
When you run this engine with the valve cover off, you will not see the deluge of oil you see in a Chevy or later model Olds.
Lube the rockers and shaft with assembly lube, and don't worry about oiling too much.
Have you checked the rockers and shafts for wear?
New rocker shafts are a good idea anyway.
Make sure to have a reversing drill to turn the pump counterclockwise.

 

Yes, aware of the oiling system. I cleaned, lubed with cam lube and reassembled the rocker shafts, all seems to be good there. I mocked up a stock pushrod, and I will be getting about .025 preload, so I ordered a full set of pushrods. I am stuck here for a while, as I can't move forward on anything else until I get the pushrods. Thanks Charlie!

 

New engine stand. My 1000lbs stand was scary, this beast was tipping like when I had only one head on. This one has a wide stance and is 1300lbs.

 

If it runs as good as it looks it will be a "W"! Nicely detailed work.

 

Good move on the engine stand.
These beasts weigh 750 pounds.

 

Engine out, resealing Hydramatic, cleaning, painting...

 

Update, installed heads today. Will probably use a hoist leveler at the 4 corners of the head water ports and then install intake in the car. Will go easier with trans, thats how I removed it. Installed new front seal in Hydramatic also. Just about ready to mate them up and reinstall. I need a Saturday to detail engine bay some more before that.

 

I hate this part, but someone's gotta do it!

 

I might be over the hump, can start putting this thing back together now.

 

Finishing up engine bay detail. The throttle/kickdown linkage needed some love.

 

Nice Work! Things are looking good!

 

Ok valve train checked out, primed oil system, mated trans back to engine, its ready to go back in. Im installing without intake so I can use the leveler.

 

Good job Max.
What kind of paint (Hi temp?) did you use on your exhaust manifolds?

 

I used VHT cast iron grey. We will see how they hold up.

 

Ok install day! Enjoy the pics!

 

Max, I'm sure you already know this, but it greatly helped my engine cooling to put a radiator recovery tank in, on that forward radiator baffle, on the right side, right where the over flow exits. That way the header stays full.

 

I thought about that, but its never had issues (not going over 1/2 way on the temp). We will see how this engine does. My wiper wash jar is right there where you are describing, so if I do that it will have be figured out, I don't want to drill any holes.

 

Ok, ran into a minor thread issue, had to helicoil one of the intake threads, intake on now, buttoning up stuff, hoping for a startup/cam break-in this Saturday.

 

Nice job, Max.
If it runs as good as it looks, you will have a real winner.

 

Ok done! Camshaft break-in was flawless! Changed oil, ready to go break in the motor now.

 

So I was able to sneak a 2" x 13" recovery tank next to the radiator and barely miss my washer jar. I had to make up a couple of brackets and rivet those to the L brackets that came with it in order to avoid drilling any holes in the car sheetmetal.

 

Looks great!

 

Plugs look pretty good. Rear main seal leaks like a sieve, other than that runs awesome.

 

Did you use the original "rope" seal?
Or did you use the rubber replacement seal you can get now?
New 1949-59 Oldsmobile 303 324 371 1955-59 GMC 324-370 modern Rear Main Oil Seal | eBay

 

I used that Best Gasket seal, gave it to the machinist anyway. He said they installed it fine. Something went wrong, the crank surface was probably too pitted, my visual on it before I dropped it off was ok. Needless to say, that will ALL HAVE TO COME OUT as some point. It's paper trained now with diapers.

 

Here's my fix for now. It really just ends up dripping down on the crossmember.