1946 1947 and 1948 How many own them?
#364
1948 olds model 66
Hello i just joined the group, i just got a 48 olds 2 door sedan model 66. I has been changed up a lot. Chevy motor, transmission and rear end, p/s and p/b, also tilt wheel. It does not have any arm rest in side the doors or a vent window handle. Does any one know if the 48 chevy arm rest will fit on the olds. The door handles are gone, i plan to install door poppers. Thanks
#365
I think that the GM cars all used a very similar arm rest, especially on the front doors, the rear arm rest on the 2dr's generally have an ash tray built into the arm rest..
The arm rests were missing from my '49. I have a '50 Chevy, the Chevy and Olds arm rests were the same, just slightly different fabric covering..
What side do you need the vent window handle for. I'm pretty sure I have the handles..
I'll check my stock today... Bill
The arm rests were missing from my '49. I have a '50 Chevy, the Chevy and Olds arm rests were the same, just slightly different fabric covering..
What side do you need the vent window handle for. I'm pretty sure I have the handles..
I'll check my stock today... Bill
#366
Door handles on your 48
If it is the outside door handles that are gone, no problem. Largely a matter of taste. You should have a hidden emergency door release if your battery goes down.
But inside handles are a different story. At least in Washington State and probably in others, a mechanical handle on ea. door is mandatory to qualify the car for licensing. It is a safety issue. I didn't know that but found out talking to a rod shop owner. Luckily I was not in the finish stage on that car and it was no big deal to add them. I used after market that sat flush with door panels.
Jerry
#367
I have not made up my mind yet as to if I'm going to use power windows and door locks in my '49 Olds fst bk.. the reason being my recent experiences with a '39 Plymouth conv coupe that I am finally getting finished up after fifteen years of work.
During the rebuilding of my Plym I came to the conclusion that the so called "hot shot" car builders are not as smart as they think they are.. The owner of the car had better be smarter and more attuned to whats going on, than the guy doing the work..
I/we put power windows and door locks in my Plym.. The inner latch handles are very nice, well made metal units from a Honda that I harvested in a wrecking yard. Throughout the building of the car I kept bringing up the question of "what happens if there is a power failure".. The answer to this question was never addressed.
Two things have saved the day.. I insisted on retaining the original door handles, they are not hooked up, but can be at a later date if need be.. I also insisted on retaining the original keyed door lock in the passenger door.. I had made suggestions to my builder many times for him to come up with a way to utilize the original key lock as a mechanical over-ride for the power door latches.. Never happened.. I think he thought I was nuts..
Last week I decided to see what I could do about a "fail-safe" door lock.. I took the door apart, a couple of hours work fabricating up a lever and link rod to the key lock resulted in a mechanical keyed, over-ride, to the power locks.
My next project is to wire in an external power connector which will allow me to use jumper cables and/or a battery charger without having the need to get into the car..
To somewhat defend the guy that did a lot of work on my Plym, he did install a concealed external switch to open the driver door, however, this switch would be useless if there was a power failure.... Bill
During the rebuilding of my Plym I came to the conclusion that the so called "hot shot" car builders are not as smart as they think they are.. The owner of the car had better be smarter and more attuned to whats going on, than the guy doing the work..
I/we put power windows and door locks in my Plym.. The inner latch handles are very nice, well made metal units from a Honda that I harvested in a wrecking yard. Throughout the building of the car I kept bringing up the question of "what happens if there is a power failure".. The answer to this question was never addressed.
Two things have saved the day.. I insisted on retaining the original door handles, they are not hooked up, but can be at a later date if need be.. I also insisted on retaining the original keyed door lock in the passenger door.. I had made suggestions to my builder many times for him to come up with a way to utilize the original key lock as a mechanical over-ride for the power door latches.. Never happened.. I think he thought I was nuts..
Last week I decided to see what I could do about a "fail-safe" door lock.. I took the door apart, a couple of hours work fabricating up a lever and link rod to the key lock resulted in a mechanical keyed, over-ride, to the power locks.
My next project is to wire in an external power connector which will allow me to use jumper cables and/or a battery charger without having the need to get into the car..
To somewhat defend the guy that did a lot of work on my Plym, he did install a concealed external switch to open the driver door, however, this switch would be useless if there was a power failure.... Bill
#368
thanks for the reply. both front doors do not have vent window handles, but when I got the car there was 2 chrome backing plates for the handles. I took the car out for a test run this past week end. the car really ran good, and the power in the chevy motor was was very good. it did not get hot and no leaks
jim-bo
jim-bo
#370
My '49 runs and drives, in and out of the shop, down the street to the corner of the industrial complex, then back into the shop.. It would actually be roadable if the dash was painted so that the windshield and back glass could be installed.. Bill
#374
Pictures Now, work later
I haven't seen this bunch so curious to see pictures of a new project since, well, maybe never. I hope you are documenting everything you do incl. condition you bought it in, with photos. Each major step should also get you taking--and sharing--more pictures. It is a long winter and apparently none of the rest of us are making picture-worthy progress so a new guy with a new 40s project creates a lot of demand to see what you've got.
My current, non photogenic, sub-project is getting controls and wiring hooked to the 455. It took two of us three 3-hour evenings to get the Lokar footfeed, throttle cable and cable hookup to the Qjet just right.What a PITA. But it is done now. See what the restoration folks miss out on. Fortunately installing the shift linkage from column to trans went more smoothly.
Jerry
#375
1948 0lds model 66
Looks like a good find and a fun project to me. Is it up and running now?
I added you to my contact list along with DMac and will add Citcapp. Hey, we're making progress as that is four now and I know there are others including a guy who posted on the site from Beaverton (?) Oregon.
The best way to keep track of who has these 46-48 cars seems to me to be adding the owners to your contact list on this site. There's gotta be more 46-48 Olds owners out there. I just gotta find them and hope they would like to make contact with the rest of us who own these cars.
Don't apologize for the Chev 350/350 combination. When you're starting out and have lots of other expenses like a family, a home, trying to save for your future etc. you drive what you got. If you hang onto the 48 there is plenty of time later if you want to change power plants.
Thanks for posting and keep in touch,
Jerry
I added you to my contact list along with DMac and will add Citcapp. Hey, we're making progress as that is four now and I know there are others including a guy who posted on the site from Beaverton (?) Oregon.
The best way to keep track of who has these 46-48 cars seems to me to be adding the owners to your contact list on this site. There's gotta be more 46-48 Olds owners out there. I just gotta find them and hope they would like to make contact with the rest of us who own these cars.
Don't apologize for the Chev 350/350 combination. When you're starting out and have lots of other expenses like a family, a home, trying to save for your future etc. you drive what you got. If you hang onto the 48 there is plenty of time later if you want to change power plants.
Thanks for posting and keep in touch,
Jerry
I also have a 1948 olds model 66, I just got the car 2 weeks ago. the major changes has been done such as, 350 chevy motor, 350 transmission, chevy rear end with 207 gears, p/s, p/b, tilt wheel, electric wipers, and interior redone. the car is painted flat black on the bottom and white on the top. now I will start to change some things. it needs door poppers, which I have never done before, I will detail the motor area, install a new door window which is cracked, and have the car repainted, as time and money permits. let me know if I can help in any way. jim
#376
The more the merrier in this sub group of vintage Oldsmobiles.
I am puzzled a bit by the need for door poppers. Are you talking about the spring-loaded cylinders that are always under pressure or the electric solenoid type operated to release the latching mechanism--most often seen with bear claw latches? And, is that because no outside handles or no inside handles?
I am puzzled a bit by the need for door poppers. Are you talking about the spring-loaded cylinders that are always under pressure or the electric solenoid type operated to release the latching mechanism--most often seen with bear claw latches? And, is that because no outside handles or no inside handles?
#378
Now I understand why the poppers
OK. thanks for the clarification. Going that route makes sense to me since this is an already altered car and not a restoration to all stock specs. Your patience in explaining that to a slow learner like me is appreciated.
![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I recently saw aftermarket bear claw latches with the electric solenoid latch release (popper?) built in. That looked like a good design rather than what we've had to do previously and have the solenoid mounted separately and connected by a cable or rod to the latch. I'm not pimping for this outfit but found this: http://www.autoloc.com/catalog/Bear-...r-Claw-Latches
Jerry
#380
Door Openers for Shaved Doors
Jerry
#381
Door Openers for Shaved Doors
I found this excellent write up which is far better than what I would have written and photographed. It explains the terms popper and solenoid well. Following this write up will get you to the point of having the mechanical part of the install done. http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54...solenoids.html NOTE: This is copyright material so I will only refer you to it but won't reproduce it here.
The electrical part is not rocket science but you should have a separate circuit for the door openers and you must use a relay on each door. If you buy a kit like the one in the write up it will have instructions for wiring. The most difficult part is getting the wiring through the A pillar and into the door in a way that allows the door to open but doesn't pinch the wires when the door closes.
#382
thanks for the info, it looks like a scary task, I will have to get my friend to help, two heads are better than one, I think. this project is on the list of things to do. today I am going to try to get the passenger door open. the inside handle does not open the door. guess i'll start with the old coat hanger. jim-bo
#383
Door Openers
thanks for the info, it looks like a scary task, I will have to get my friend to help, two heads are better than one, I think. this project is on the list of things to do. today I am going to try to get the passenger door open. the inside handle does not open the door. guess i'll start with the old coat hanger. jim-bo
It would help if you could get the upholstered door panel off the pass. door and see if the inside handle is even connected to the latch. If you're not feeling any resistance when you move the inside handle it may not even be connected or the link between handle and latch may have come off or broken.
If the inside handle doesn't move at all it may be the inside lock was pushed down into the lock position. I'm not 100% sure but when the inside lock is pushed down I don't think the inside door handle will move at all, at least it doesn't seem to on mine.
I put in two photos of my 47 door mechanism in case you can't see yours. On the wider angle photo you can see a small tab on the latch mechanism that is meant to be connected to the inside door lock push button. It is pointing toward the upper screw in the picture. If your pass. door is locked that is the piece you need to latch onto with the coat hanger and pulll upward.
If handle is not connected you need to latch onto the piece in the other photo somehow and pull it toward the front of the door.
Good luck with your door project.
Jerry
#385
I managed to get the passenger door open today. The lock rod was pushed to far down. I also moved out the locking plate on the door jam a tiny bit. All is good. I took out the grill today to have it chrome plated. It was a job but got it done. Jim-bo
#386
![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/icons/icon7.gif)
Sounds like you are getting right into it. Glad the door turned out to be a relatively easy fix and done in time to watch Superbowl. However you forgot one essential tool.....the camera.........and those pics we have been asking for.![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I'd be curious to know what the quote is to chrome the grille. Here (Portland OR area) it is usually an arm and a leg particularly if there are the usual erosion pits in the grille bars.
![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I'd be curious to know what the quote is to chrome the grille. Here (Portland OR area) it is usually an arm and a leg particularly if there are the usual erosion pits in the grille bars.
#390
Posting Pictures
Relatively easy to post. Just do a reply with quotes to your earlier message.
Type in some simple line like "here are the pictures of my Olds" and then scroll down below the reply window to the window titled "Attach Files" and click on the "Manage Attachments window.
A new window will pop up and have small windows with "Browse" just click on browse and navigate to where your pics are stored on your computer,
Select the first pic and click on the "open" and it will select that picture. You can select up to five pictures using the "Browse" .
When all are selected hit the upload window, give it a while to load and they will show up as thumbnails under your message. Close the browse window and then You should use the Preview Post to check and make sure they downloaded.
PICTURE SIZE: there is a limit so keep the pics you want to post to about 750x1000 or the downloader may refuse them. I find it helpful to downsize the pics I know I want to post before ever beginning the post.
Hope this helps.
Jerry
Jerry
#391
49olds 88 futurematic
I have a 49 olds 88,fat man front clip,350, 330hp chevy with 2/4,s, needs m/c relocated and glass, have not worked on it for years, had heart attack, been in hospital 20 days last 6months. have not learned how to post pictures with windows 8.1. may mail someone pictures and have them post them for me, any takers
#392
Posting pictures
I have a 49 olds 88,fat man front clip,350, 330hp chevy with 2/4,s, needs m/c relocated and glass, have not worked on it for years, had heart attack, been in hospital 20 days last 6months. have not learned how to post pictures with windows 8.1. may mail someone pictures and have them post them for me, any takers
Check out my post just above yours. There is a fairly detailed instruction on how to post pictures on CO. It is actually easier to do than it is to read about it. Basically when you finish putting the words in your post just scroll down to "Attach Files" window and follow directions.
Jerry
#395
photoo posting troubles
Maybe the photos were too large. If pics are too big it just won't post them but also won't tell you they are too big. Try reducing the photos to about .5mb at most. I reduce mine to 750x1000 before even trying to post on this site. I use MS My Pictures program and the edit picture function. My pictures software comes on most Microsoft OS. I'm using XL but believe it works on Win7 also.
#397
Photos
Pictures have to be reduced on your computer. I don't think this forum has that ability.
Like everything having to do with a computer, there are different ways to do things. In my case I take my photos, then send them to my computer, store them there on a photo program that will allow you to manipulate (edit) the photos.
I use the Microsoft program "My Pictures" which came as part of the Operating System package. My Pictures will allow you to edit the photos including downsizing them by bringing up the photo on your computer screen and right clicking on it and then selecting the 'edit' option. Under edit you will find 'resize' I choose the option that allows me to make the photo some percent of its original size. You can size the photo up or down any number of times but when you get it the size you want, which for this forum should be about 400 kb, get out of the edit function but save that reduced photo. The screen will likely prompt you to do that.
Now with the photo reduced and saved in your 'My Pictures' software you can reduce others you want to add to your post. Now you are ready to add pictures this forum will accept.
If you want to discuss the photo selection and posting more you should probably email me jerome1@cni.net or send me a personal message (PM) and we can do that off this forum. We're getting kind of off topic.
Jerry
Like everything having to do with a computer, there are different ways to do things. In my case I take my photos, then send them to my computer, store them there on a photo program that will allow you to manipulate (edit) the photos.
I use the Microsoft program "My Pictures" which came as part of the Operating System package. My Pictures will allow you to edit the photos including downsizing them by bringing up the photo on your computer screen and right clicking on it and then selecting the 'edit' option. Under edit you will find 'resize' I choose the option that allows me to make the photo some percent of its original size. You can size the photo up or down any number of times but when you get it the size you want, which for this forum should be about 400 kb, get out of the edit function but save that reduced photo. The screen will likely prompt you to do that.
Now with the photo reduced and saved in your 'My Pictures' software you can reduce others you want to add to your post. Now you are ready to add pictures this forum will accept.
If you want to discuss the photo selection and posting more you should probably email me jerome1@cni.net or send me a personal message (PM) and we can do that off this forum. We're getting kind of off topic.
Jerry
#399
Just about all of the chrome on my grille, bumpers, etc., has been redone.. To minimize the cost impact, I have been doing the chrome over a period of time..
The cost of good chrome plating here in California is just about off of the chart.. Triple plating, i.e., copper, nickel, and chrome, is very difficult to get done because of the cyanide process that is required to do the first step prior to the copper..
Because of the EPA rules, there are very few plating shops in CA that can afford, or have permits for the use of cyanide.. Bill
The cost of good chrome plating here in California is just about off of the chart.. Triple plating, i.e., copper, nickel, and chrome, is very difficult to get done because of the cyanide process that is required to do the first step prior to the copper..
Because of the EPA rules, there are very few plating shops in CA that can afford, or have permits for the use of cyanide.. Bill