OK. os picked up a survivor f85 deluxe. v6 with st300 it appears.
I worked out some kinks but I have 2 issues that are likely related, or at least playing off each other.

Very rough to start and get warmed up. Have to keep gas flowing for 2-3 minutes at least before it will settle to an idle and will stall out a couple time starting it.
bogs down when you hit the gas for a second.
when put in gear it stalls unless you are riding the gas pedal.

SO. checked for vac leaks. so far none found (tried the carb cleaner trick and nothing spiked the engine rpms. I do have a vac tester kit coming today.
Carb seems to be operating fine BUT it is a 2 barrel conversion from 1 barrel. I checked those connections and didnt seem to be any leaks either.
new fuel filter, plugs, wires, coil, etc. Starter is toast (starts about 1 of every 4 times) Have new one but need to move the car to a safer location attitude wise before I swap that.
Battery is great. New fuel tank and sending unit in back

Clearly there is a fuel/air issue but there is also a trans issue. I am pretty sure the kickdown cable is completely disconnected. Would that cause the engine to stahl immediately when in gear? Or would that just make it shift poorly? I can not pull the cable. Seems frozen.
Where can I get a new one. I did not find anything on an ebay/amazon/napa search.

I am playing catch up here as it ihas been 30 years since I touched a carb/older car to work on and my memory is foggy. And help videos on 65 olds are few and far between.

The car idles great once warmed up but the minute you hit the gas or put it under load, it wants to stall (and again, it does not start smoothly at all)

Thoughts.. I appreciate any and all input. I know there are probably a coupe dozen things that COULD be issues, just looking for the checklist to start knocking them off. I was sure it was vacuum, but could not find a leak. I did order some new vac lines and again, the test kit, so I will probably replace all the top vac lines off hand.

Also, there is a vac line (i assume) that runs from the passenger valve cover to the back of the intake. IT is very wobbly/loose. Cant not easily pull it out but seems like that could be an issue as well. But again, nothing came of the carb cleaner test around it.

driver side view of carb

kickdown cable? Not even sure where it would attach

I assume the more vertical cable is the kickdown? That is the one shown loose in the engine bay

passenger side view of the carb

 

My 2c... It could be simply the car sat with bad fuel and the carb needs to be pulled and "rebuilt". I use "quotes" here because what I truly mean is, you should pull the carb and disassemble it. Pull the jets (as many as you can without damaging them), soak small parts in carb cleaner, and spray down the air horn and valve body in a bucket (so you collect the overspray- don't make a mess of everything). Make sure you blow out all the vents and tubes, everything. Let parts soak. I know some pros who use ultrasound to really get things clean- that's your goal. Get absolutely everything as clean as you possible can. "Looks like brand new" is your unobtainable goal, but that's your standard if you want to be sure the carb works as well as it can. All new gaskets of course, though the base gasket might be hard to find. And as I'm looking at your pictures, I wonder if the "carb conversion" included a 2 barrel manifold or just some kind of adapter plate?

Check the thermo-coil choke spring thingie on the right side of the carb. It's the black plastic dial there, and there should be a heat riser tube there that's missing. It goes where the brass nut/plug is in the front of the unit, and it controls the butterfly flap in your carb. It closes the butterfly to restrict air on start up (rich mixture) but the spring uncoils as the car heats up and opens the butterfly to allow more air (leaner mixture). If you pull the air filter and mess with the high idle cam on the right side of the carb (passenger side), you should be able to get an idea of how tightly the butterfly is closed when the car is cold, but without the heat riser tube, it's not going to warm up and open your butterfly like it should. I'd guess it's set to open (because there's no heat riser) so the car runs better when it's warmed up, but that means rough starting and slow to warm up.

Once you rebuild the carb- and make sure you get a rebuild kit that includes the accelerator pump because that's going to pump a richer fuel mixture when you step down hard on the gas pedal- and you replace that heat riser to the thermostat coil spring, and make sure you ID all the vacuum ports off the carb base and intake manifold (know where they go and make sure none of them are open), you're going to want a dwell meter and a timing light, and a hand held tachometer. You'll need to set your timing and idle, and your fuel mixture screws- those 2 screws in the front of the carb control air to fuel mixture. Set the mixture screws to get the car to idle - probably about 2 turns out from the bottom. Turn them all the way in, then back them out 2 full turns. Check the point dwell and the timing, and set the idle (distributor vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged). They affect each other, so you have to recheck and readjust them all a couple times until all are where you want them. That's a basic driveway turn up.

Then, turn one idle mixture screw in all the way, or as far as you can without stalling, then the other same way. Next, turn one out until the car runs smooth(est), and the idle is as high as it gets. Dial it back 1/4 to 1/2 turn, but not so far the idle drops off again. Repeat with the other screw. That's a crude but effective way to get your idle mixture pretty close to where you want it. Then, knowing your idle mixture is pretty well dialed in, go once more around your timing/idle to get them where you want them. I usually recheck the dwell once more to be sure it's still where I want it.

At this point you've set your timing, idle, and points. You've set your fuel mixture, and you've cleared any vacuum leaks, and you've got the thermostat coil spring on the passenger side kind of neutral. Now you want to play with the high idle cam settings and the thermostat coil spring to get them right about where you want them. This step will probably have to be done a few times, and it depends on where you live, how cold it gets, things like that. Make sure you re-connect the distributor vacuum advance line to the distributor when you're done.

I also work on bikes, and I find that 99% of the time (bikes, cars, lawnmowers...) That's my basic process for the old "ran when parked" internal combustion engine. That's where I start.

Good luck!

 

Sorry to spam- but that spring that wraps around your coil there? That's wrong, I think. No way the throttle return spring is supposed to wrap around the coil. The other spring- silver one that looks like it was bent and re-bent a few times? I think that's where your kick down cable is supposed to go (on the carb end), and you might be missing a piece to your linkage. The square piece on the front of the black fitting on your kick down cable is supposed to push through the back of a metal bracket that has a matching square hole. It clicks in place. You might want to get a manual that shows these pieces in detail so you know what's missing, because what I see- most of that is wrong. Maybe you want to go back to a single barrel carb?

 

#1. You have a 231 cu. in. V-6 engine !!!!!!
#2. You used an adapter to bolt on a Rochester 2 barrel in place of a 1 barrel carb.
#3. You don't know what size engine the 2 barrel came from.
You might be able to get a 2 barrel from a 215 cu. in. Olds V-8 (1961-1963) that could work. No matter what you do as far as cleaning and rebuilding, its probably not going to ever work right. There was a reason they used a 1 barrel carb on that little engine when they manufactured them.

 

The V6 225 CID was used then and can run well with a 2bbl carb. Extremely similar, the 231 came out in '75? Both of these are considered "odd fire" engines and never idled like glass.

I'd start with a compression test and agree x2 on a carb disassembly and cleaning.

They use a unique ignition rotor, be sure to use the correct version. The V8 rotor will bolt right in and drive you bonkers trying to figure why it won't run well...been there.

 

thanks. I noticed that spring looked weird. And I DEFINITELY need to find a manual with good pictures of this ANd I am fine going back to single barrel. Espceially since I will eventually pop in a v8 I am guessing. I actually have an olds 455 (came with the car) but just dont have the budget right now nor the space to store an engine and 4 crates of parts.

 

Just to be clear, this is how i bought it. I am just trying to sort throught it all and haveing not looked at a carb in 30 years (70 dodge dart i got when I was 17) my memory is completely toast on this one. Had the saem issue redoing the rear drum brakes yesterday. Just been a long time since I even looked at one.

What 1 barrel or 2 barrel carb would be the best and easierst fit for this engine. We just want a cruiser. And I am fine to drop it down ot 1 barrel since I will eventually v8 swap it. Just want to be able to cruise it this summer. The adaptor plate creates it's own issues asw well since it raises the carb to the point that the air cleaner hits the hood. Had to find a 3" to 5" adaptor that actually recesses a little then the thinnest 5" throat air cleaner AND knock down the center trim mount points to close the hood. I think the guy who had it just threw this carb and adaptor on it because he had it and thought a 2 barrel would be better. I may even have the original 1 barrel carb. I will check the parts he sent me.

I just want to get it running so my son and I can drive it a bit this summer before he heads off to college. It has good bones and I think the engine will run fine once I sort this carb/linkage stuff out. I just need to buy the online manual or something so I can see a diagram of it all.

Thanks for the input.

 

So i just ordered a CD with a full serrice manual for the 1965 f85 and cutlass. Will be here in a couple of days. But if anyone has pictures of how the carb and kickdown linkage should be please let me know. I was told the carb was just rebuilt so before I tear it apart, I want to make sure the linkage is correct.

Also, if anyone has a link to the proper replacement kickdown cable for a 1965 f85 with the 225 and the st300 trans, please let me know. I got nothing when I looked on ebay/genberal google search.

Thanks again for all of the help.

 

Thanks for correcting me. For some reason I have that "231" displacement etched in my brain. I still think the 2 barrel carb should be sized and jetted for the small displacement 225 c.i. engine.

 

Agree the carb should be properly setup which sounds like the OP's goal. Hopefully mickie08 has the original 1bbl and get that going, or find an intake and carb from a 2bbl 225 or odd fire 231.

The 225 was a decent engine just not that smooth.

 

Mickie Man- these guys, Ralph and Sugar bear, they're real pros at this. They know this stuff and more often than not, they're right. Me? I'm a grease monkey, back yard mechanic who's been monkeying around with old cars for almost 50 years. I actually work for the phone company- never a professional mechanic in my life. That said, I almost never pay a mechanic. I built the 394 that's in my car, I can't imagine letting anyone else work on my Olds. So take the advice- and don't feel bad. You'll get this right in your own way.

IMO- if you have the original 1 barrel, I'd rebuild that and put it on. Or- you have to find a 2 barrel manifold. You might be able to get a rebuilt 1 barrel for the car that's cheaper than a 2 barrel manifold, IDK. Sure as Heck would be simpler to put a rebuilt 1 barrel on that manifold and replace the shredded kick down cable than to try to make the 2 barrel work. And that, my friend, will probably fix all your troubles- until the next troubles.

Here's a link... three and a half bills... https://www.ebay.com/itm/395245406904

 

Mickie- Ralph and Sugar Bear are the best, and a lot of the guys on this forum are pros. Me? Not so much. I'm just a guy who has worked on cars for like 50 years, so I've picked up a trick or two. I'm going to agree that your best option is to get a 1 barrel, or if you have one, rebuild it. I can't imagine the bump in HP you'll get from a 2 barrel is going to be worth the cost and aggravation- it's still a 225 V6 after all. And if you want to find a 2 bbl intake manifold, I bet that's more money than just buying or rebuilding your 1 bbl and replacing that shredded kick down linkage.
I guess it might be late- if you ordered the books- but here's a link to the full set of 1965 Olds shop manuals, for $20... instant download... https://over-drive-magazine.com/prod...ervice-manual/

 

Thanks. I am going to check if i have the 1 barrel. Ill also check to see if by getting rhe linkage set up richt the 2 barrel works. Easy fix is getting all linkage set up right. If 2 varrel wont run then ill rebuild the 1 barrel (i th8nk i have it but need to check. I have 4 crates of parts but mostly.455 stuff as it came wirh an extra engine

It is frustrating because it came to me like this and its been so long since i worked on a car like this i just dont remeber the tricks i knew 30 tears ago.

Do you by chance know a link to the kickdown cable? Couldnt find one on a quick search.

 

Welcome new guy Mickie. I'm in an airport with lots of layover time soooo.....
So lets start with some info before you go any farther. Are you from the USA or other?
You are all over the place with the problems you are fighting. Trouble shooting 101...Don't toss parts at it. Troubleshoot, diagnose one thing at a time, then by parts.
Attack one system at a time and fix it. Take careful notes/pics of where you started with each component in case you need to get back to that starting spot.

1. Snap a pic of the engine so we can see all of it. Find the ID numbers. I have no idea where they are on this engine.
2. Every carb. has ID numbers and build dates. The numbers are on the float bowl or on a tag. This is a 2 Jet which is easy to rebuild and find parts for. With the right ID #.
3. Is the distributor stock? If yes it has points? Are they installed correctly? Do you have a tach & dwell meter?
4. Wait for the vacuum gauge to arrive. That tool is what we are going to use to diagnose and dial in this engine.
5. I see a lot of worm gear clamps. They can cause leakage if you are trying to clamp an oversized hose on to a smaller nipple. Source the correct ID sizes of hoses.
6. A metal hard line is preferred from the fuel pump to the carb. Rubber is a fire hazard. But leave it for now. Until your done troubleshooting.

"Rough" can mean several things. Timing, dwell, air/fuel mix, choke etc. The vacuum gauge can be used to diagnose these things.

Keep that old coil its likely OK and not made in chachahhhhina.

That sure looks like a TH2004R transmission just from the cooler lines, fill tube, and cable arrangement, not a ST300.
Transmissions are easily identified by the shape of the pan and other features on the case.

To my limited ST300 knowledge an ST300 does not have a TV cable. What you are calling a kick down cable is a Throttle Valve or TV cable. It sets the shift points and the kick down events.
Without that TV cable hooked up that trans will NEVER operate correctly.
If it is a TH2004R and the cable is not adjusted correctly or completely in-op like this one is, damage to the trans is eminent, Unless it has zero miles on it since the installation.

The TH200 pan is missing from this chart. Its square like the 700R4/4L60 and has 3 forward gears vs 4 in the TH2004R.
A TH2004R also has a torque converter lock up circuit. If this is a TH2004R and these two things are not hooked up you will burn it up.



Steve

 

Here are two pages out of the assembly manual and two out of the service manual.
These assume that you have the Jetaway Transmission and single barrel carb.
I agree with droldsmorland and that you do not have a Jetaway. The jetaway has the cooler lines behind the dipstick tube.
you picture shows them in front of it.

 

Thank you for all the info. I ordered tach and dwell testers earlier when someone mentioned it. So those will be a couple days. I do not believe the trans is a 200, The pan is rectangular with small bevels at at least 1 corner and the whole car is pretty much original except the wheels/tires and the carb that was put on it (if memory serves me, 200r came way later than 65).

I agree on not throwing parts at it. It is obvious the linkage is not set up right so I think that is the first thing. Then getting the kickdown/TV cable replaced. Then i start checking all the vac lines with an actual gauge, new carb or carb rebuild if needed (this one is supposed to be freshly rebuilt but who knows.

my definition of rough is: shakes a bit when starting, wants to stall immediately. Usually stalls 3 or 4 times before i get it to stay running with my foo ton the gas. Have to keep foot on the gas for at least 2 minutes giving a good steady supply. Then feather it back until it settles to idle. Once it has warmed up it idles almost perfect. Also, starter is going out. I have a new one already but need to get it turned around and driven into my garage and up in the air to swap that.

Points looked fine but I will recheck points (and pick up a spare set) and get timing checked (while I have done that before, its been decades so I am going to have a friend help me withit to make sure we do it right and bad memory doesn't cause worse problems.

I will try to get better engine and trans pics tomorrow and post them. Right now parts wise all I have done is plugs, wires, ignition coil, fuel filter, and air cleaner. I do have a power booster for the brakes as well as kit to change oil pan gasket, and a few other small things like that but have avoided going crazy buying stuff. Prior owner did the half *** carb swap, new fuel tank and sending unit, front disc conversion with tubular arms. Someone also added air shocks to the back. I like how it sits now so not sure if I will swap those down the road. The heat/AC was stripped out at some point but I have most of it so EVENTUALLY ill add that back in but no rush on that.

my goal is simple. Get the car driveable to enjoy this summer. Decide long term plans (442 clone maybe since someone put 442 badges on it). I guess i need to look into how hard a 455 rebuild and swap will be. Was planning on selling the 455 but may keep it with along rebuild plan. I am going to price getting the block tanked and decked (assuming nothing bad show sup in the tank) and go from there (even if I sell it I can get more if it has been cleaned up already. Also need to check the bore and check the pistons.

Once we get the car actually driving, I will change all filters (probably 2 months oin a row to clean it all out and see if anything comes out in fluid), get an alignment, likely replace oil pan and gasket. work on rear end (leaking a small amount. and maybe go ahead and toss in new ujoints just to short circuit the failure. Then we can decide the long term plan. Outside of the trans being completely shot (possible), Im into this car less that 5k and have a complete though rough and in parts) 455 if I want to have some fun with this and only rust is around window, leading hood edge, and trunk (and it came with a new trunk pan in the box).

IT will be fun project.... But I am much rustier that the car is!! Ijust REALLY want to get it on the road in the next week or two to cruise a local hot rod show or two...

 

Thank you. I just downloaded the full manuals but this saves me chasing these specifics down. I will count trans bolts tomorrow if I can and take more pics. May be a th350. Quick glance seemed to look like a fairly square pan with one corner notched and I know that is a common upgrade and a direct bolt so would look pretty factory. So I am guessing I need a th250 kickdown cable. IS that car specific or just trans specific? If I can get that swapped out and the linkage actually in correct, we will start to know where any real problem are at.

 

looks like a th350.

 

It does look like a TH350. There is a chance it could be a TH250, a TH250 has an external band adjustment that looks like a threaded rod with a locknut on the passenger side of the case near the connections for the transmission cooler lines. TH250's were much less common than TH350's.

 

Nice car. Lets get it derivable for you.
Rough idle can be choke in combination with tuning timing a/f mix leaks etc.

 

thanks. Yep. 1st is get tv cable replaced and get all throttle and trans linkage actually hooked up correctly. Hard to track the problem down if it is all set up wrong. Maybe I get lucky and that gets it running well. I am guessing the trans needs work, but hoping for the best

 

X2 on getting everything correct first. Chances are fair that the transmission will be ok especially if the fluid looks decent, TH350's are quite durable.

Keep us posted!

 

I didn't think aTH350 had a TV cable. It's not a 460LE. The pan, cooler lines, fill tube, servo, and architecture suggest a TH350.
Could be someone replaced the kick-down cable with a TV cable? TH350 kickdowns are on the passenger side of the carb... no? I haven't had a vehicle with a TH350 in 45 years.
TH350s do have a kick-down cable off the carb throttle and a vacuum modulator. The TV in the picture shows the adjust button to alter cable length as seen on most TV controlled transmissions.

Mickie count the pan bolts to verify TH350.



TH350 side view

 

It is a kickdown cable I am pretty sure not a TV. I am pretty sure by all metrics it is a 350. It is not on a very safe plane for me to jack the fornt up to get iunder it safely right now to fully coutn bolts but I could do it 1 side at a time.. I want to get it at least rolling hopefully to move it into the garage, get it up as high as I can on jack stands or ramps, and tear into tit all (drain fluids again, filters, etc.). Hopefully getting the linkage all set up correctly gets it running. The engine wants to run fairly smooth.. We are just not getting the fuel and air to it correctly right now. Hoping that is the stalling issue and not the tranny being out. BUT. who knows. Could be either or both.

 

KOOL...yes please be safe.
The good news is a TH350 won't self-destruct from a TV out of adjustment, you just won't have passing gear unless you manually shift it. You can live with that until a correct cable is sourced. Drop the trans fluid a couple of times within a few 100 miles.
Make sure you get old-school trans fluid... Dextron. New incompatible fluid will smoke the frictions & disc packs in short order.

If you can find a trans pan drain plug kit or a good GM made pan with a plug it makes trans service a breeze, You don't have to drop the pan every time you want to cycle fresh fluid through it.
If you can find a good old-school trans shop they could point you toward the right source for a GM cable and fluid.

 

Yes.

Mickie08 this thread may help in your decision making. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...300-v6-184438/

By the way great looking car, love the stance. And someone did you a big favor swapping in the TH350. For the first time in her life she has a real first gear... If the rear is the optional 3.55 instead of the standard 3.08 when all the kinks are sorted out she will move well.

 

So my question is this. I am assuming the 1 barrel intake is limiting how much help the 2 barrel can add AND may possibly cause some issues due to restriction for best performance. I could get one of the jeep 2 barrel manifolds. I could also grab the 4 barrel version. It think I would only do that if I was going to swap to EFI and opening up to dual exhaust. Basically, I decide to keep the v6 long term and want to boost it to where I want to. If i am looking to just getting it running to cruise and later down the road put in a v8, what makes the most sense? I would love to just get this setup running long enough to enjoy the summer and then start thinking about long term plans.

 

Agree the 1 bbl intake would probably limit it. I'd go with a 2 bbl intake for a driver. Keep in mind that the 2 bbl carbs came in different sizes so you may or may not be chasing a 2bbl carb to fit the new Jeep intake. The 225 was also used in OMC inboard/outboard drive boats so you might find a setup in a boat yard.

If you hear knock in the front cover area don't sweat, it is just the timing chain tensioner/dampener. They are inexpensive and easy to replace, it was a common noise.

 

mickie08, Your project started me reading up again about the odd fire 225's, turns out there was an early version that was 198 CID which I've not heard of. It looks like some of those were 1bbl's. I don't know if Olds ever used the 198 CID or just the 225 CID, anyone know?

There is a website earlycj5.com that supposedly lists casting numbers to ID the block. Trying to avoid you chasing after any incorrect parts.

 

OK. so talked to the guy I got it from. The 2 barrel was recentyl rebuilt and was running on a different car fine. He has no reason to lie (he already has my money) and has been helpful with any quesiton I have asked. So I do not hink the 2 barrel needs rebuilt (though it still may be the easier/simpler option to look for the old 1 barrel or replace it(

Does feel like a vacuum issue. I was having an issue where it did not want to roll even in neutral which was making me question the trans BUT that was a bad rear beake cylinder. Car rolls easily now in neutral and all brakes are functional. There are 2 odd things I can see. 1 is a vac port on back drivers side that has a rubber cap/nipple that I do not think fits very tight. The other is a hose that is capped in more of a plumbing repair type way (was guessing that line is for the AC). I was guessing the 1st line I mentioned is where vac for brake booster will go? Wondering if I need to cap them better r if they need to be hooked up to something?

Still issues ius as such: very hard to start. ave to a very high hold idle for a few minutes to get it to warm up and then hold idle. nce you do that, it will sit and idle smoothly (though smells pretty rich for sure) all day long. Put it in gear and under load and it immediately stalls out.




1st pic is the vac line covered with a fairly loose nipple second is the one I assumed was part of AC unit? third is jsut what I assume is an extra vac port?

I checked the pics sent by others but did not see any of this really explained. and I tried to download the maual I bought but having issues (emailed their tech)

I see 2 screw ports on carb with metal plugs in them, but do not know if they need to be ran somewhere or just plugged. I also do not know wat the heat riser that was mentioned is. Anyone have a pic of that and how/where it would be attached? where I can get the part?

Sorry for all the questions. Just been way too long since I have worked on this stuff. I could hire someone but I'd rather my son and me learn

 

OK. close inspection of the 1 barrel. There are 4 "ports" per say on it.

pic 1

pic 2

Pic 1 shows 3 open ports. one on right is the fuel line. What goes to the 2 smaller ones? Should they be capped? There is currently onl;y 1 vac line on the current carb. I am assuming one of these is for the vac line. If so which one and I assume I need a fitting to screw into there to attach that. based onthe current carb I assume it is the lower of the 2 but I may be wrong. Should there be another vac line? Then in pic s there is the downward facing larger diameter tube. Where does that run to?

The current vac line to the current carb runs from the littel silver housing right off of the distributor cap as you can see in pic 3 if you look.
[img alt="pic 3
"]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/classicoldsmobile.com-vbulletin/975x975/engine_5013bce6bc7cf4154b548041ee163ef946ba92b8.jp g[/img]
pic 3

 

pic 3 showing front of engine

 

AND success.

the rear vac line that was capped with a black nipple was pretty rotted (the cap) and I swapped out the 2 barrel for the 1 barrel and the new vac line cap. Started easier, actually ideled abit rougher than before (but I did not have to hold gas to wamr it up) and most improtantly, will go into gear. Defineitly needs A LOT of adjustment and I need to see if my adapter for air cleaner will work. But at least now I can move it into the garage to work on a few things.

Noticed front right quarter sits low (just put on new shocks, may need new springs. That or something just isnt tightened up down there. I'll go through it all. BUT it starts, holds idle, and will go tino gear and move. Win #1 of 479 to go.

 

Still do need to figure out how to set up the kickdown cable but at least this weekend I can get it up on blocks in my garage, change fluids, reseal the oil pan and check trans pan for leaks

 

Good work...1 of 479

 

Amazing what a properly sized and jetted carb will do. Now check your CSM and adjust the carb and check the timing.

 

ok. so follow up.

When I start it up now it is mostly starting up easily and idling pretty well. The throttle linkage needs fully adjusted as well as carb mix, etc of course. Quick question though. I noticed that when starting it will occasionally "cough" and a quick pop of white from the carb. This usually is when it is at least a bit on the cold side engine wise. I know the fuel is rich right now, is this just fuel vapor burning off, Excited to get the brake booster on and get this engine running smoothly.

 

Is the choke connected and adjusted ?