lining up torque converter and flywheel
May 4th, 2012, 05:46 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Chisago City, MN
Posts: 453
lining up torque converter and flywheel
I dropped my 350 into the 70 cutlass last night and have a question. The engine is sitting on the mounts correctly. I got the bell housing lined up and bolted in tight. Everything looks good there. My question is with the torque converter. When I pulled the motor I was sure that the torque converter nuts were flush against the flywheel. Now there is a gap, if i put in the bolts and just evenly tighten will it pull together? I don't want to break anything, and am nervous about this. If anyone can help I would appreciate it. Any pictures of what it should look like bolted up would be great too. I wish I would have taken some before I pulled it apart.
May 4th, 2012, 06:23 AM
#4
Seasoned beater pilot.
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 5,468
Let me address the terminology used here, first.
Although I inferred what your thread title meant, I want to let you know that the part is called the "flex plate" on an automatic transmission vehicle, not the flywheel.
Flywheels are for affixing the clutches to, in manual transmission applications.
Put both hands on the torque converter, and push it in while turning it, until it won't go in and click anymore. That should seat it properly. If yours is already seated properly, there should be about a 3/8" gap between the flex plate and the torque converter pads.
They will pull together when you bolt them in.
Make sure your flex plate is not mounted backwards either. The concave side goes toward the front of the car.
Also make sure you are not hitting the counterweight on it anywhere so it doesn't end up crooked.
Although I inferred what your thread title meant, I want to let you know that the part is called the "flex plate" on an automatic transmission vehicle, not the flywheel.
Flywheels are for affixing the clutches to, in manual transmission applications.
Put both hands on the torque converter, and push it in while turning it, until it won't go in and click anymore. That should seat it properly. If yours is already seated properly, there should be about a 3/8" gap between the flex plate and the torque converter pads.
They will pull together when you bolt them in.
Make sure your flex plate is not mounted backwards either. The concave side goes toward the front of the car.
Also make sure you are not hitting the counterweight on it anywhere so it doesn't end up crooked.
May 4th, 2012, 06:32 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Chisago City, MN
Posts: 453
The 3/8 gap sounds correct for what I have for a gap right now. The TC bolts were short as is, I assume if lined up correctly they should be long enough to reach the TC and get started? After that do you tighten until the nuts on the TC are flush against the flex plate? And thanks for the correction on the lingo, I am still learning.
May 4th, 2012, 06:38 AM
#8
I ruined a freshly rebuild TH350 doing this wrong
Luckily Dr. Steve's Transmissions who rebuilt it the first time had sympathy on be and replaced the pump and wheatever else it was I damaged, and only charged me $200, Thats to take it out, new pump, seals etc. and reinstall...I owe him big time....
Luckily Dr. Steve's Transmissions who rebuilt it the first time had sympathy on be and replaced the pump and wheatever else it was I damaged, and only charged me $200, Thats to take it out, new pump, seals etc. and reinstall...I owe him big time....
May 4th, 2012, 07:51 AM
#10
I didn't "seat" it properly (if thats the correct term) It was hard to line up.
Here is a link to the tread with a few of my problems
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...r-problem.html
Well I got it in, or so I thought. It would not go down the road. I checked the fluid level and it was good, so I put it on jack stands and while in gear I gave it a little help by rolling the tires.
It seamed to work, for a few minutes, I drove it for a shake down ride. It was working, but not right. I drove it to my buddies house to see what he thought. Thats as far as I got.
Stopped moving at all.
Towed it to the tranny shop and he told me the damage I had done...
Live and learn.....
Here is a link to the tread with a few of my problems
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...r-problem.html
Well I got it in, or so I thought. It would not go down the road. I checked the fluid level and it was good, so I put it on jack stands and while in gear I gave it a little help by rolling the tires.
It seamed to work, for a few minutes, I drove it for a shake down ride. It was working, but not right. I drove it to my buddies house to see what he thought. Thats as far as I got.
Stopped moving at all.
Towed it to the tranny shop and he told me the damage I had done...
Live and learn.....
May 4th, 2012, 08:06 AM
#11
NOVICE car nut
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 3,123
Let me address the terminology used here, first.
Although I inferred what your thread title meant, I want to let you know that the part is called the "flex plate" on an automatic transmission vehicle, not the flywheel.
Flywheels are for affixing the clutches to, in manual transmission applications.
Put both hands on the torque converter, and push it in while turning it, until it won't go in and click anymore. That should seat it properly. If yours is already seated properly, there should be about a 3/8" gap between the flex plate and the torque converter pads.
They will pull together when you bolt them in.
Make sure your flex plate is not mounted backwards either. The concave side goes toward the front of the car.
Also make sure you are not hitting the counterweight on it anywhere so it doesn't end up crooked.
Although I inferred what your thread title meant, I want to let you know that the part is called the "flex plate" on an automatic transmission vehicle, not the flywheel.
Flywheels are for affixing the clutches to, in manual transmission applications.
Put both hands on the torque converter, and push it in while turning it, until it won't go in and click anymore. That should seat it properly. If yours is already seated properly, there should be about a 3/8" gap between the flex plate and the torque converter pads.
They will pull together when you bolt them in.
Make sure your flex plate is not mounted backwards either. The concave side goes toward the front of the car.
Also make sure you are not hitting the counterweight on it anywhere so it doesn't end up crooked.
May 4th, 2012, 11:19 AM
#12
car guy
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 5,660
If the converter was never out you should not need to seat it. If you want to be sure just spin it several times while pushing toward the transmission you can make sure. Then pull it back out to the flexplate by hand and bolt it up. Make sure all three are finger tight before snugging any of them up.
May 4th, 2012, 12:31 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Chisago City, MN
Posts: 453
ok, ya I never had it out. I didn't realize that it would have that much room to pull out if it is seated. I will be getting after it tnite. I will post an update once it is complete and I am sure it works. Thanks for the help
May 14th, 2012, 10:38 PM
#14
XCELERATIONRULES!
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Orwell,Ohio
Posts: 323
When attaching the motor and trans there are a few items which help the install.
Jack the motor up ever so slightly while the motor mounts are completely installed use jack stands with a block of wood or something on the oil pan.
Put trans on floor jack and secure with tow straps or use trans jack,and install the cross member into the frame rails,and nut the trans mount.
This supports the rear of the trans,while still allowing movement.
Use a block of wood between the pan and floor jack to spread out the area that the jack supports...you should be able to get the motor and trans pretty well mated with no problems.
I've done this recently with 2 motors in my gravel drive way.
Jack the motor up ever so slightly while the motor mounts are completely installed use jack stands with a block of wood or something on the oil pan.
Put trans on floor jack and secure with tow straps or use trans jack,and install the cross member into the frame rails,and nut the trans mount.
This supports the rear of the trans,while still allowing movement.
Use a block of wood between the pan and floor jack to spread out the area that the jack supports...you should be able to get the motor and trans pretty well mated with no problems.
I've done this recently with 2 motors in my gravel drive way.
May 14th, 2012, 11:26 PM
#15
NOVICE car nut
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 3,123
When attaching the motor and trans there are a few items which help the install.
Jack the motor up ever so slightly while the motor mounts are completely installed use jack stands with a block of wood or something on the oil pan.
Put trans on floor jack and secure with tow straps or use trans jack,and install the cross member into the frame rails,and nut the trans mount.
This supports the rear of the trans,while still allowing movement.
Use a block of wood between the pan and floor jack to spread out the area that the jack supports...you should be able to get the motor and trans pretty well mated with no problems.
I've done this recently with 2 motors in my gravel drive way.
Jack the motor up ever so slightly while the motor mounts are completely installed use jack stands with a block of wood or something on the oil pan.
Put trans on floor jack and secure with tow straps or use trans jack,and install the cross member into the frame rails,and nut the trans mount.
This supports the rear of the trans,while still allowing movement.
Use a block of wood between the pan and floor jack to spread out the area that the jack supports...you should be able to get the motor and trans pretty well mated with no problems.
I've done this recently with 2 motors in my gravel drive way.
yea I remember doing work on cars in my parents driveway back when it was gravel , after you got off the ground you had dents all over your skin
May 15th, 2012, 12:09 AM
#16
XCELERATIONRULES!
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Orwell,Ohio
Posts: 323
Unfortunately I don't weld...yet.
My garage is full at the moment.
I have a floor pan project holding up the completion of my Trans Am.
I'm waiting on a friend to clear his schedule..hard to drive a 4 speed with no floor.
The other project Le Mans is waiting a rear end transplant...hard to push a car up and down gravel with no wheels.
If I could move the Trans Am,I could at least paint the Le Mans and have a space to work on my Elky.
Moral of the story..should have taken a welding class...and I'm seriously considering it.
My garage is full at the moment.
I have a floor pan project holding up the completion of my Trans Am.
I'm waiting on a friend to clear his schedule..hard to drive a 4 speed with no floor.
The other project Le Mans is waiting a rear end transplant...hard to push a car up and down gravel with no wheels.
If I could move the Trans Am,I could at least paint the Le Mans and have a space to work on my Elky.
Moral of the story..should have taken a welding class...and I'm seriously considering it.
May 15th, 2012, 10:24 AM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Chisago City, MN
Posts: 453
I had no issue bolting up the TC once I had the motor in and all the bell housing bolts tightened up. The TC slid forward the approx 1/4"-3/8" I needed by hand. I have been driving the car around the last couple of days with no issues. Thanks to all for the info
June 16th, 2012, 12:37 PM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 8
I am trying to bolt my torque converter up to the flex plate. The car is a 68 Cutlass with the original 350 motor. The transmission used to be a 2-Speed Jetaway. I have since upgraded (I hope) to a TH350 out of a 72 Cutlass. The old torque converted has three brackets mounted to it that the three bolts screw into. The surface area of these brackets is small enough that they do no conflict with what I believe is a counterweight fastened to the back of the flex plate. The new torque converter on the TH350 has three plates welded to the torque converter that have holes in them. Now I can use a bolt and add a lock washer and nut since there is no bracket for the screw to go into. The problem starts with tightening up the nuts/bolts to tie them together. The surface area of the plates on the TH350 are larger than the brackets that were on the Jetaway and I cannot bolt them together without twisting the flexplate because the counterweight comes in contact with two of the three plates. I will need to put some spacers/washers in the third one to not twist the flexplate. Does my tranny have the wrong torque converter or did I need to get a different flexplate? I don't think I put the flexplate on backwards because the bolt pattern prevents that. Any help is appreciated.
Last edited by cbold68; June 16th, 2012 at 12:39 PM. Reason: Spelling errors
June 16th, 2012, 12:59 PM
#20
car guy
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 5,660
I am trying to bolt my torque converter up to the flex plate. The car is a 68 Cutlass with the original 350 motor. The transmission used to be a 2-Speed Jetaway. I have since upgraded (I hope) to a TH350 out of a 72 Cutlass. The old torque converted has three brackets mounted to it that the three bolts screw into. The surface area of these brackets is small enough that they do no conflict with what I believe is a counterweight fastened to the back of the flex plate. The new torque converter on the TH350 has three plates welded to the torque converter that have holes in them. Now I can use a bolt and add a lock washer and nut since there is no bracket for the screw to go into. The problem starts with tightening up the nuts/bolts to tie them together. The surface area of the plates on the TH350 are larger than the brackets that were on the Jetaway and I cannot bolt them together without twisting the flexplate because the counterweight comes in contact with two of the three plates. I will need to put some spacers/washers in the third one to not twist the flexplate. Does my tranny have the wrong torque converter or did I need to get a different flexplate? I don't think I put the flexplate on backwards because the bolt pattern prevents that. Any help is appreciated.
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