1970-W30

Duracool freon to arrive to recharge my AC unit, I thought i'd get the ball rolling on the 2004R swap i'm going to do before the Arizone Route 66 Fun Run in May. Immediately issues came up. My carb throttle arm does not have enough lenght on it on the bottom side to get the 1.1 inch radius swing needed for the TV cable. Bowtie recommends swapping out the primary throttle shaft from a Ch*vy Qjet to get the right configuration on the lever and to get their install kit to work. I'm really hesitant to do that for a number of reasons, will the shaft fit correctly? Will the butterfly plates be properly positioned for a decent idle after a different throttle shaft is put in? I hate to have to restake the two plates that have to be removed to remove the shaft. My carb also has had the shaft/housing rebushed, will it work with a different throttle shaft? Can I find a Ch*vy core Qjet that doesn't have a worn throttle shaft? And lastly, will my cruise control actuating arm with its roller work on a Ch*vy throttle arm? For all the above questions, you can see i'd like to keep the stock setup.
Has anyone done this 2004R switch with their stock Olds Qjet? and what did you do to get the TV cable to work properly? I do have a lot of room because I'm running a Performer RPM.
Hoping for an answer, Harold

matt69olds

Use a throttle arm bracket from a late model CCC carb. Grind the end of the throttle shaft where the shaft is staked to the bracket on both carbs. No need to remove the shaft from the carb. Once that is done, transfer the CCC bracket to your carb and weld the shaft to the bracket. Use the throttle cable holding bracket from the CCC carb and your done. I have done this many times on 2004R swaps. Its cheap, duplicates the factory TV cable engineering, and will give you previous from the cruise control.

1970-W30

Thanks for the info matt69olds, the throttle/cable bracket i've come up with already, its that darn cruise control arm that's now the problem. If I swap brackets, not that big a deal, but I'd still have the problem of the roller on the cruise linkage not having the proper arm angle and shape to follow. See the roller in the pic, the whole geometry changes with a late model carb bracket/arm. The shape and distance from the centerline of the shaft is different. Took a bit of "fiddling" just to get it to work smoothly on this Performer RPM manifold.
But your mentioning "welding" lit a bulb in my slow brain, and gave me a new idea, I'll just cut off the throttle spring tab off the bottom of the arm, and make a new flat tab, have it welded on and then drill a hole for the TV cable right where it needs to be.

matt69olds

I have never seen a cruise control linkage like that, after looking at my 69 and 71 service manuals I see thats a factory set-up. The few A-body cars I have seen with cruise had a system similar to what would have been on the big cars. I would think you could adapt the cruise control throttle linkage from the CCC carb to your servo.

1970-W30

Well, A Level II Bowtie Trans 200-4R will arrive in two weeks, they're going to custom make a bracket for my odd throttle arm with its cruise control. Keeping my fingers crossed, one way or another I'll have both cruise and overdrive. No more going down the freeway at 3100 RPM, or higher to keep up with traffic here in the Phoenix area.......
Matt69Olds, have you ever had to lenghten the driveline an inch or so in the 200-4R swaps you have done? It was mentioned to me, I thought the Turbo 350 and the 200-4R were the exact same lenght........

matt69olds

If the car has a TH350 in it now, its about the easiest swap there is. The drive shafts are the same. You will need to move the trans crossmember to the spot where it would be if the car had a TH400 trans, the holes will already be in the frame. Hopefully the exhaust will clear with the crossmember in the new location. Technically, you will also need to replace the parking brake cables with the correct ones for a car with a TH400 trans. I THINK (I have slept alot since I removed the TH350 for the TH400 trans) I was able to make the factory cables work by adding another hook under the car to take up the extra slack in the intermediate cable. Is the car a column or floor shift? Shiftworks makes a floorshift conversion kit for the overdrive trans.

1970-W30

It's a floor shift, i'm getting a new shifter gear indicator plate and shifter detent/index plate so i'll have the capabity to shift into first as part of the trans package.

1970-W30

Well, the 200-4R tranny project has ground down to a stand still. Getting it in was a bit tricky, had to get the wife The new shifter and it's cable is back ordered, I'm still waiting for shims as the torque converter was to far away from flex plate, 1/4" max distance recommended, mine was 3/8". And on top of that, after a day and a half of tinkering, I couldn't get the TV cable adjusted correctly with the Olds Qjet carb, so now i'm waiting for an Ebay Chebby parts Qjet to arrive so I can use it's throttle arm. Meanwhile, I'm working on the torque converter lockup wiring, It's pretty simple,unlocked by hitting the brake pedal, do you think I should incorporate an adjustable vacuum switch also? I've also heard about using a 6 to 8 second time delay relay to prevent hunting (in and out) of the lockup clutch. What is the best setup for utilizing the lockup feature that will be trouble free?

matt69olds

I have fooled around with some of the TV control systems. They all have there issues, especially the vacuum controlled ones. The cheapest and easiest way is to supply power through a switch ( a extra dimmer switch on the floorboard is easy to do and hide) and grounding the TCC solenoid through a normally open pressure switch on the 4th gear pressure switch port on the valve body. The converter wont lock unless you have the switch on and the trans is in 4th gear. it would be ideal to wire it in thu the brake switch also. The switch is about 10 bucks, if your interested Ill look up the GM part number.