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If I understand correctly, you must not have a lockup converter. The switch isn't hard to install. TCI has a [very short] video on their website. Drop the pan, replace the harness, pop in the switch (and a bit more) but you'd need the lockup converter.
I do have a lock up but a low stall speed. I would save 150 rpm's with the switch. I am debating on installing the switch or not.
I disagree on the 150 rpm, my truck dropped(4L60E) 250 rpm and my Cutlass with the 2004R drops around 200-250 rpm at 60 mph. I will double check that this afternoon but pretty sure. I may add that 4th gear switch when my 2004R goes in my 70 S. I am trying to make it more user friendly for other than me unlike my 88 CSC. Toggle switches for the fan and lock up are a pain and not woman friendly. I will also need a spring added to my TCI Fastgate shifter to return the plunger, again more user friendly.
I was under the impression that running a lockup converter with no lockup hooked up would result in overheating. But I also read that not reversing the cooler lines would also cause problems, which it won't. I read too much.
I got my 200-4r raised into place, on the locating pins, and two bolts put in. But I tore something in my shoulder doing it so it's going to be a few days before I'll know anything about it's quality.
My car drops about 250 rpm, just like my truck did, double checked it. I would say that TCI kit is the best of both worlds with the toggle switch override and adjustable operation. Rest up Mac and get it done.
A couple of trouble spots:
1. First off, I had to swap Q-jets for a mid 80s unit for the correct throttle linkage.
2.Then I had to find the right bracket. This one fit real well.
3. A carb spacer was needed. At least it was needed for my Edel performer intake. The new TV linkage hit an intake bolt and didn't make a smooth arc without getting knocked around. Of course it was a holiday weekend and I couldn't find anything local, and I was in a hurry (which we always say we shouldn't do) so i made this out of a high quality piece of plywood (cabinet grade). This is temporary, of course.
4. The dipstick tube, a universal but for the 700r4 and 200-4r, is very long and needs to be bent in order for it to fit. At this point I have it bolted to the head with a spacer between the bracket and the head but it needs to be reseated in the trans because it's leaking a little. I'm wondering if I could have used the tube and stick from my old TH350. You can see in teh pic that it got angled just a bit.
Here is how high it sits in the engine bay. It's there, next to the AC vacuum dealy.
So I'm not quite done yet. I need to install the vacuum switch and wire it, install the aux cooler, and disconnect the pressure gauge. Can I leave the fitting in the trans and plug it with the original plug? I'd need to use pipe dope or tape though. The plug is blunt on the inside end.
More to come....
I also had to notch the crossmember just a little in order to get the trans to clear. The crossmember has two arced cutouts already. I just made one a little deeper.
Lol, I keep adding as I remember things. I started this conversion by adding another fuse block because the one under the dash was looking pretty gnarley with all the add-ons and I needed to power the lockup control for the new trans. I used a breaker, a relay (powered on and off by the under-dash fuse box), and a fuse block for 6 circuits. I tried running the HEI off of it but the car wouldn't shut off, lol. I did check to make sure the relay switches everything off when the key is turned off and it does.
Run-on is often caused by power feedback over the alternator sense wire. If it's a stock (or stock-like) install, then there's a bulb between the IGN rail and the alternator that usually prevents this from happening. The engine shutting off properly now may be by pure luck.
Usually adding a diode in the sense line (oriented for current flow FROM the firewall TO the alternator) often fixes this.
Yeah, you can put the plug on the gauge hose as long as it's the same type of fitting (chances are good that it is). Use tape.
Thanks for the heads up, oddball. I may give that a try.
I hooked up the vacuum switch for the lockup today. Took a while to get it dialed in. Man, that switch is sensitive. I also added the aux cooler. That was fun. My knuckles look like I ran them over a cheese grater, lol.
To be clear; I pulled the plug from the trans port and installed the brass elbow. The gauge screws into the brass elbow. I want to leave the elbow and screw the plug into that in case I want to install the gauge again. I'll use tape on the threads. Thanks oddball.
I'm still having trouble with the vacuum switch. It either lugs badly, continuously searches, or doesn't lock up at all, depending on the setting. Does anyone know if I can use the monster transmission pressure switch kit with the TCI lockup internals? I may call them this morning.
Run-on is often caused by power feedback over the alternator sense wire. If it's a stock (or stock-like) install, then there's a bulb between the IGN rail and the alternator that usually prevents this from happening. The engine shutting off properly now may be by pure luck.
Usually adding a diode in the sense line (oriented for current flow FROM the firewall TO the alternator) often fixes this.
Yeah, you can put the plug on the gauge hose as long as it's the same type of fitting (chances are good that it is). Use tape.
Any idea what size/spec diode I would need? Since Radio Shack is all cell phones now, they're not much help.
So the Q-jet I purchased on eBay has a secondary air door problem. This wasn't my first air door adjustment but this one is missing a spring or something; the air door turns WITH the screw. So instead of tearing it apart I just loosened it real good and went with this old trick. Works like a charm.
I think I've found a satisfactory compromise with the TV cable. Secondaries open almost all the way and I have good, firm shifts and at decent RPMs. Next week I start pulling the rear for the new gears.
I think I've found a satisfactory compromise with the TV cable. Secondaries open almost all the way and I have good, firm shifts and at decent RPMs. Next week I start pulling the rear for the new gears.
Hey Mac - glad you got this thing beat and you're back on the road! So what are your RPMs like at cruising speed (60 MPH) now? I'm guessing around 2000? Less?
It's around 2k at 65 mph without the lockup. Right now the car is a bit of a dog with the 2.56 gears, the 200-4r and the 2500 stall. I'm anxious for the new gears.
Any idea what size/spec diode I would need? Since Radio Shack is all cell phones now, they're not much help.
Not the ones that are the size of a grain of rice. Anything even slightly larger is fine, because there's very little current flow. Use a standard diode - not a zenner if possible. Make sure the breakdown voltage is over 20V if it is a zenner.
Not the ones that are the size of a grain of rice. Anything even slightly larger is fine, because there's very little current flow. Use a standard diode - not a zenner if possible. Make sure the breakdown voltage is over 20V if it is a zenner.
June 4th, 2016, 09:46 AM
