When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The 1-2 accumulator spring on mine was broken exactly the same way. I had a hard time finding a stocker to replace it. The trans I built was for my wife's 85 D88. I didn't want the readily available GN accumulator spring. She's not a fan hard shifts.
I will be buying the GN replacements I guess. Do you have the part number for the Turbine Shaft seal installer? There are a few different ones. Also the specific bushing driver part number would be helpful.
^^^This. The long tube is to slide the rings onto the shaft. The short tube slides over the installed rings to squeeze them back down to size so the fit into the mating parts.
Thanks, I will order it. I am also buying a proper 4 piece set of decent snap ring pliers instead of the crappy swap end style I have. These also came.
Thanks, yeah the Guppy will get reinstalled, who knows if it does anything but it can't hurt anything. I ordered the Kent Moore 29696 Turbine Shaft seal installer.
Interesting idea on those check *****. I finished tearing it down. I am getting a new pump and the kit with nearly everything including the billet forward drum, sunshell, servo, shift kit, upgraded thrust washers basically good to 450+ hp/tq from CK. I am also getting a new billet speedo bullet and the proper speedo drive gear for 3.90 gears and 275/60R15 tires. I don't why anyone would want a TH350, they suck stock and fail almost as often as a TH2004R. Crappier first gear, no OD or lock up converter adds 1000 unnecessary rpm. I will be parting with $1200 US in parts for this after the 351 build, which will really push my stock TH2004R other than CK .555" boost valve and regulator along with a deep pan and bottom feed filter.
I upgraded my snap ring pliers, the crappy multi head unit didn't cut it. This snap ring was a challenge to remove, as it rests against the raised supports in the case. Plastic thrust on top of the low/reverse assembly Low/reverse clutch piston Low/reverse clutch housing Low roller clutch race and roller assembly Spacer housing to case Thrust bearing, rear cam/lo race Output shaft with clutches stacked on Low reverse clutches and steels Low/reverse clutches and steels Rear carrier assembly Brown 26 tooth gear All parts stowed away until assembly. Hit the case with degreaser. It will get pressure washed before assembly.
p
Boy, that looks familiar. I have to admit that I had a heck of a time getting the speedo driven gear bullet out of the case. The steel bullet had seized in the aluminum case. Hilarity ensued. I ended up getting a replacement aluminum bullet for the rebuild.
Thanks, Joe. That reminds me, this one might be seized now that you mentioned that, I will check that tonight. The current TH2004R in my 70S definitely isn't. It was spinning in the case tightening up the speedo cable. Speaking of that, I need to put a gauge on that trans and make sure the big CK boost valves are putting out 200+ psi of pressure. Other than the deep pan and bottom feed 4L60E filter, it is stock. There was nothing in the pan and the fluid was very red, I have a feeling it was rebuilt not many miles ago. I may pick up a servo for the current trans to help it live under the planned power upgrade.
I pulled the speedo bullet as they tend to seize in place. I thought this one was seized, it was not, it must be the one outside that is. I also ordered the CK improved copy of the GN servo for my current 2004R. I know from experience, until you change the low performance servo, it is hard to get firm shifts out of these in my experience.
Thanks. It was also pointed out that low reverse clutch tool looked wrong I got. I think it is only part of the tool, this is the other piece I will have to get.
I also received the Kent Moore Turbine seal installer tool.
Hit the case with degreaser and hit it with the pressure washer. Not super impressed with the Spray Nine engine degreaser. I will pick up probably Gunk or similar and hit it again.
I also got this seal and bushing driver set
I hit it with a whole can of oven cleaner, used my 15 and 25 degree tip. I ended up carefully using the rotating blaster tip on my 2200 psi gas pressure washer. Looks pretty good.
Now, with some sandpaper and polishing compound you can make it look almost like chrome. For those without a pressure washer spraying them down with oven cleaner inside a large trash bag and closing it off and letting it sit in the hot sun for a few hours sealed up, and then using a regular garden hose to wash it off should work well.
It should work quite well, bloody stuff hurts the lungs. I made sure to not spray it anywhere inside of the transmission, just incase. I may start to do little things like bushings etc.
Yep, inhaling just a little of it is a real attention getter. If you did spray it inside I would recommend not leaving it very long and rinsing it out thoroughly. Changing the bearings out seems to be a good idea and using the newer teflon coated ones. Have fun....