Trash can and will move from the torque converter back into the trans. Fluid circulates through the converter. Giant chunks, no, but there will be plenty of small pieces. It's always a good idea to tear down and clean up a trans that has any potential hard part damage. Otherwise there's trash tucked away somewhere that will just get picked up and destroy more parts later. This is especially great with some of the newer trans where they have crimped-on covers on some parts that hold trash. They have to be destroyed to be removed, and take fineness to install.

I run a 200-4r and love it, but if I did it all over again I'd to 4l80e. It's easier now than it was 10+ years ago (more controllers and more knowledge of the trans), but it would cost about double going to a 2004r. The main problem with the 200 is that it's becoming a rare bird - only a handful of shops still focus on them and hard parts (OEM or aftermarket) are getting extremely difficult to find. The 4l80e was used much more widely so availability will be much better for a long time.
There's the normal stuff on the 200-4r - getting the TV cable set up right, picking your lockup control approach, and getting a good converter. The real pain is calibration. The builders have to use whatever they can find, so they often have to make pretty severe changes to whatever parts they have to make it work OK. There were dozens of different factory calibrations, and modifying those to something more suitable is a fine art. There's more circuits and controls than the older 350/400 transmissions so more places to monkey around with things. Most of these were behind extremely weak engines in grocery getters aiming for fuel economy - not good shift quality. Governor tuning is a whole extra conversation. It was very exciting the first time my car bounced off the rev limiter when I was trying to merge into traffic on the highway.
If the builder hits it on the nose on the first try then it's excellent. But if they didn't, then it's a lot of work to go back and forth to make modifications.
This isn't to dissuade you - just know going in that it's not "install and party". There may be some tweaking to get it right where you want.
Heck, I spent ~15 years messing around with TH350s. Finally got one that ran just the way I like it. Even though I haven't touched it in over 10 years I still have it in the corner so I can re-use the valve body and governor if I ever need to!

 

First question ....
calibration ? The transmission has a mind of its own , or do you need any additional computer based components involved ? My ride is a old school set up , no modifications .

 

He is basically saying, trial and error with the 2004R governor. Even known experts in the 2004R are questionable these days. I only waited 6 months and I got a dud, expensive trans pump from CK Performance for my 2004R. It shifted and worked perfectly before I swapped the pump and added their shift kit and servo. The reading on the gauge was erratic then low. I actually removed the shift kit and still no shifts at all. Screw it, I threw a Transgo shift kit and 2000 to 2200 in the TH350, going wide ratio TKX manual 5 spd, very expensive but will be worth it. The best behaving 2004R was a rebuilt transmission from a member here, completely stock. Shifts were soft until I upgraded it. I have had very good luck with the big Transgo shift kit and servo. Positive shifts but not harsh, the green line bias spring adds 300 rpm to the full throttle shifts. I ended using the .555" boost valve to get 215 to 220 psi line pressure in the foward gears, very nice compared to 195 psi. I ground the small governor weight, added an extra screw to keep the springs in place. Right around 5000 rpm full throttle shifts, very firm but not harsh. Part throttle was completely stock feeling, what you want. Guys quite often have to send the governor back and forth several times to get it right, buy a deep pan with a drain plug. Makes draining fluid to swap governors easier but also allows a bottom feed 700R4/4L60E filter. Most stock governors shift around 4000 rpm stock but I have had 2 shift at 3000 rpm full throttle stock, horrible low, even for a stock mid 70's Olds 350. Good luck.

 

Eeeeks , I'm not so sure I want a 200R4 now 😆
I definitely don't want to have that thing towed somewhere after I put the transmission in . I don't know **** about the specifics when it comes to transmissions . I know my mini bike has a governor that cuts the power off at a certain speed 😂 , and I don't want that for sure . Damn I was getting hooked on this 200R4 , that extra ⚙️ would've been awesome. I need to get this car moving out of the spot it's been in since last June so I may end up putting another T350 in there. I'd put a T400 in but I thought you needed a different length drive shaft for that (forgive me if I already asked this )

 

You still have the stock mid 70's Olds 350? If so, basically a Transgo big shift kit and new stator is all you need added to the rebuild. Just make sure it is a reputable shop with the 2004R. The stock 4000ish shift points will also be fine. I wanted more than the 195 psi the .555" boost valve added to the pump in this great condition 2004R. I was planning on 400 HP, that would not cut it. Thought, why not get parts from the best, nope! The 2004R has great gear ratios and when right is great. The lock up torque converter and .68 overdrive great drops highway rpm by 1000 rpm. Also the base D9 torque converter stalls about 300 rpm higher than a stock TH350 trans, also helps launch. Add in either 3.42, 3.55 or 3.73 rear gear and gain a ton of acceleration while gaiing no additional highway rpm. The TH350 isn't bullet proof stock, it is just cheaper and easier to build. I saw them fail behind the fire breathing 165 HP Olds 350 stock. Good luck, as said, the TH2004R goes right in where the TH350 goes, just move the crossmember back.

 

350 long gone , it has a 455 in it from a 68 Toro now

 

I was also wondering if not having enough transmission fluid in torque converter when I installed it could cause the issue at hand ? It was 6 years ago or so when I installed it.

 

Ok folks , I'm going to be in the market this summer and looking for a replacement transmission for my car. I'm hoping for something local here that's available. I want a T350 built to handle the 455. I definitely don't want a wore out transmission that can't turn the wheels ... er I mean wheel 😆

 

I'm also going to need advice on torque converter placement. That's what failed on the other one after 6 years. 5/8 of a inch from bellhousing edge ? I wonder if I burned other transmission out because of one wheel wonder rear end

 

Find a core to build. Look for the nastiest core with red fluid, that suggests it came out of a running car. Make sure it doesn’t have a threaded bolt with a nut on the drivers side, that means it’s a TH250 and NOT a 350. Make sure it doesn’t t have an electrical connector, that means it’s a lockup trans. Don’t confuse pressure switches with the valve body electrical connectors. if you find a core that checks off all the boxes, it’s probably a useable core.

 

Best advice is to SLOWLY tighten the bellhousing bolts while stopping frequently to make sure the converter will still turn. If the converter stops turning before the bolts are tight, immediately stop and find out why. If the bolts are tight and the converter spins but hits balance weights on the flexplate, relax that’s no big deal

 

Turn it clockwise at the end ?

 

Doesnt really matter, as long as the converter will turn while tightening the bolts.

Keep in mind, if the transmission isn’t perfectly level in relation to the engine, the converter might drag on the flexplate. Once again, that’s no big deal as long as you can still spin it.

As long as the converter will move by hand, you won’t put nearly enough force on anything to damage the pump or converter.

Hope that makes sense.

 

I could try to fix the one I took out like I've mentioned before , but I'm not sure if there are other things wrong with it besides the shaft . I'd need a torque converter and shaft for the pump as a minimum.

 

Bankruptcy done woo-hoo. I'm going to buy a transmission while the getting is still good . I was hoping for something cheaper / slightly used local , but I'll probably have to get a rebuilt from Monster or Jegs . The transmission will be more valuable then the rest of the car 😆

 

Yes, a damaged or malfunctioning torque converter stator can potentially contribute to grinding noises and, in extreme cases, even cause damage to the transmission shaft, such as wearing away or stripping teeth.
Here's why:

• Stator's Role: The stator is a crucial component within the torque converter that redirects fluid flow to enable torque multiplication, especially at lower engine speeds.
• Stator Malfunction: If the stator's one-way clutch (sprag) fails to hold the stator in place when it should, or if the stator's internal components become worn or damaged, it can cause the stator to move improperly or create friction.
• Damage to Shaft: This improper movement or friction can lead to grinding noises and potentially wear away the splines or teeth on the transmission's input shaft, which the stator is splined to.

In essence, if the stator cannot function correctly and remain stationary when needed, it can cause components to grind against the shaft and lead to damage.

I figured if the transmission took 6 years to fail , why not take the chance and replace the input shaft , frag clutch thingy or whatever parts caused the stator to grind the shaft , and torque converter .

Torque converter - Do you think it's repairable or still good ?
I know I keep going back and forth with this but financial horseshit reered it's ugly head once again ugh . I'm willing to risk it because of the price difference . $1700 vs about $500.
I'm just scared I'm gonna start the car and detonate the transmission or something

 

My neighbor has a T400 I might be able to use. He has two 57 Chevys in his garage 😎. He didn't say if it's out of a oldsmobile or not

 

That's where I'm at so far .

 

I see nothing out of the ordinary so far , except the gear you turn makes a squeek sound

 

That squeak is the one way roller clutch, perfectly normally.

 

Good news , after reading everything on this thread and other websites I still can't understand why the stator moved and ground the shaft .

Next question .... how do you get inside the torque converter.

 

Would this work by chance or is it a bad idea . This torque converter came out of.the 72CS with a 76 350 when I bought the car

 

As long it is actually a 72 or 76 trans and not a lock up converter, it will work. If stock, it probably stalls in the 1600 rpm range.

 

Remanufactured converters are cheap (about 100 bucks) aftermarket upgraded converters are almost as cheap as stock replacements. Unless you know for a fact the converter you are considering reusing is good, and came out of a functional transmission, I wouldn’t risk it. Whatever trash that’s in the converter will be pumped into your freshly rebuilt transmission. Not to mention you have no clue what the converter characteristics will be.

 

The converter was rated to handle the transmission I bought at the speed shop. I thought it was all rated for 400HP / 500FPT . I bought them together.... 455 from 68 Toronado

 

Torque converters have to be cut open and welded back together. Not a home job, and I aggressively stretch the definition of home job.
As mentioned, torque converters really need to be sent to a shop to be serviced unless you're absolutely certain no trash got pushed through the trans. There's a ton of little nooks and crannies in them that hold debris.
A HP "Rating" for converters is not quite real. There's the stall speed, and folks generally want a higher stall with higher HP engines, but it's pretty rare to physically damage a torque converter due to power. Lockup discs are a different deal - you can tear the lining right off of them if you really want to. But a standard non-lockup torque converter? It takes real determination to damage one.
But if metal gets shredded in the trans, then bits of it WILL get stuck in the converter and will jump out and destroy the next trans.

 

This doesn't look good does it ? 😕



It looks like it spun or something ? There are grooves

 

I have seen those kinds of scratches on lots of those drums, and not just 350 transmissions.

Nothing rides on that surface, unless there is some other flaw I’d run it. The machining on some of these parts weren’t the greatest when new, after 50 years it’s not gotten better!!

 

Yeah I haven't been working on it like I should . So much other crap going on.
there doesn't seem to be a whole lot left to take apart. Everything I seen at my level of expertise looks good. Debris from torque converter made those grooves or scratches , where the splines ground off on shaft ? What should I do next besides trying to clean it out ? Meaning should I fix or get a rebuilt one from a place like Monster ? They're around 2K .... I'd be taking my chances on the few parts I'd need minimum in order to fix this one.

 

In a nutshell , all I needed was a input shaft / pump I guess , and a torque converter . I didn't have to take this thing apart 😆 ... at least not as much as I did.

 

Maybe someone could shed a light on how the " stator " inside the torque converter did this in the first place. I apologize in advance if this was already answered , but I couldn't find anything. I watched a video or two , but they didn't describe the situation that can cause this in detail . It only ground the splines off about half way down the input shaft and then stopped . I mean , did it move or is it supposed to ? How the heck can it do that ?

 

On a TH350, that kind of wear is unusual. I can only recall seeing the splines missing on one other car, it belonged to a friends 70 year old mom. It was a mid 70s olds 88, the transmission shifted perfectly, but the car wouldn’t get out of its own way. I have no doubt the lack of low end torque was due to the stator freewheeling and not providing the torque multiplication it normally would.

That kind of wear is almost standard on a 2004R, that’s because the stator support tube isn’t heat treated from the factory.

Unless you find something else, I’d replace the pump, replace the converter, and reassemble. I bet your good to go.

 

The stator doesn't necessarily engage all of the splines and it does put a lot of stress on the splines.

 

The clicking noise the car made that I couldn't figure out for a year was the sound of splines being ground off 😆 . It all makes sense now , but I ignored the signs and F'd around and found out.