Would the converter slide back and fourth and bolt to the flex plate if it was notlined up correctly with the pump??

 

nope....if the convertor isnt in alll the way it would be binding up and tight to the flexplate...

 

Well then if it was not possible to have it installed the right way for it to slide and bolt to the flex plate maybe it just needs to run and maybe fill up the converter more?

I got under the car last night and there was quite a bit of fluid in the inspection cover but the trans is dry as well as the converter. I also found what appears to be the reason I lost all power. There was some worn shielding on one of the wires higher then I looked when I had the starter out. I will get all that fixed and replace the fusible link as I am sure it is toast but need to confirm. After I get this done tonight I hope I will get the rear wheels off the ground and run the car and see what I can get it to do...

Any other input is appreciated. Is there any way to look and see if the converter is seated the right way without removing everything?

J-chicago recomended to disconnect the cooler lines and turn the converter and see if fluid is pushed out. I assume the only way to do that is unbolt the converter from the flex plate or can I turn the motor and leave the converter bolted?

 

if you can move the convertor when its unbolted..like a 1/4 or so in and out then its fine...if its tight to the flexplate with no slop then theres a problem..

 

Well Well Well.......Bout to go drink but this time for good news

So I got the car started after correcting some frayed started wires, jacked the rear end up and thet the car run for 15 mins or so then gave it gas. The wheels started moving and after a few more mins the wheels started moving good.

Dropped the car and gave it a shot...Pulled out of the driveway and down the hill. I feared it would not climb back up but did with no issues.

Now I can focus on the leak that I thought was inside the inspection cover but that is just where it ended up. the fluid is either coming from the dip stick base, kick down cable slot or there is what appears to be a bolt maybe for pressure right nunder the tranny lines. It is not the cooler lines but right in that area.

Also the converter is too much for my tired stock motor as it is not grapping till around 2000-2200 but that is not that big of a deal..

I will keep you all updated on the leak and thanks for all of the replies...

Pat, Thanks for the tips about getting the rear in the air...!

 

Will it do a smokey burnout?


Great news!

 

awsome!! i think once you drive it a bit with that convertor youll like it

 

Congrats, that's great news. We'll have to meet for that beer soon and celebrate (I use any excuse to drink beer). Hope the leaks turn out to be a minor issue which I am sure they will.

 

So.... what was exactly the problem/solution?? Was it that the converter was not full?

Just making sure I did not miss something in the threads some where.

d1

 

It looks as if he just ran the engine with the rear jacked up to fully fill the TC and purge all the air out...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post205533
Makes good sense to me (all hydraulics need to be bled of air, right?), although I never thought of that until it was suggested earlier in the thread......
I hope this the cure.

 

Pat, This weekend may be good. I will take the dipstick tube out and use some sealer as well as on the kickdown cable hole with some black RTV unless there is somthing better to use?

Rob, I tried but no

Defiant1 I wish I knew what it was, Must have been that either trans had not built up enough pressure since it was dropped in or the converter was not full. Last night all I did was have a couple redbull vodkas and put the starter back in, cussed at it a lil bit and then got it in the air. Maybe the secret is become a little numb and hope it works lol

 

So there's the real fix.....

 

You know Rob, I think that must be it...

 

both the trans dipstick and the kickdown cable have "O" rings for sealing.just make sure you dont over goop it and get that stuff inside the tranny,it can clog up the valve body real quick..

 

Old tranny repair guy (older the me) taught me that trick on filling for filling the torque converter. I have used it a couple of times and its worked for me that's why I suggested it.

I replaced the O ring on my dipstick tube when I installed it. Found the right size at home depot.

 

change the fliter for 9 $ rear seal give it a try 2 hours pulling 2 hours putting it back in it not hard righty tighty lefty loosy thay give advice but you have to do the work that is the best part of it learing

 

You can say that again