supposedly, this trans was recently rebuilt, so there shouldnt be anything wrong with it. but, while coasting in 2nd gear it tend to pop out in to neutral, is there any way to adjust it? its a 72 olds with a chevy 402 bb fyi every other gear is nice and smooth
any input is much apriciated
thanks joe

 

Possibilities:
linkage won't push the fork all the way into second
ball check/spring to hold fork in second is missing
bad synchro, synchro shoes missing (most likely)
Olds hates having a Chevy engine in it

It's been a while since I had a Munchy apart and so I hope I didn't get anything confused with the truck trannies I've seen more recently, like ball checks etc.

 

I would say it may be the sync clutch sliding sleeve. Thats what they call them on an exploded view of a Muncie. I always call them the shift collars. If you google it, you'll find a pic of it. They get worn and loose and rattle their way out of gear.

 

Sounds kinda costly, and if anything it's prob. something I'd repair myself, that way I get to learn how to do it, iv done a bit of engine assembly, but never been in a tans. Is there anyway to conferm the issue
Plus I thought, a bad syncro means it would have a hard time going into gear, not issues falling out, am I wrong?
Thanks for the help
Joe

 

Bad Syncro's won't slow the gear down for the shift causing a grind. If you are a mechanically minded person the job isn't too bad. It would be best to get a wrench to loosen the input shaft nut. At least you won't have to pull out the cluster. Read up on it, maybe a tranny expert can confirm my opinion. Take your time and you'll be surprised that it isn't that big of deal.

 

good info thanks you

 

get a factory service manual on ebay, or join the olds perf. club for $9.95 and download it.
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/cgi-b...=9990286665833

 

i tried aligning the shift rods, and it still slips out,(no surprise) should i take the side panel off and check the gears for wear?

 

I think that would be a waste of time and you would really need to know the fine details of what issues to look for. The selecters have a system that prevents the transmission from being in more than one gear at a time. This also positively holds it in the selected gear. A failure in this system could cause it to fall out of gear but I have never seen something happen like that. I got my money on a loose collar. I hate to give you bad news but I think you need to pull the tranny.

 

This symptom is far more common in 4th gear. It indicates the gear face angle is sloped off or in the case of 4th gear the bearings have worn and it is allowing the input shaft to tilt. The fact that it kicks out on a decel is the key. by loading the other side of the gear it pushes the cluster the opposite direction. I'm afraid to fix this there is no option but to remove the trans and inspect 2nd gear and find out what is actually causing the off angle on the face of the gear. The gear face is worn or slop on the main shaft or the inside of the gear that rides on the shaft. Look at 2nd gear and let us know what you find. Just thinking about this, it could possibly also be the cluster. Either way, it is a trip inside to find out.
Kevin

 

I saw an old Doug Nash 5 speed that had 4th gear wobbling on the shaft. But that old 70's design used a brass or some other material ring pressed into the gear that had wear. I'm not an expert but have had many apart over the years and it seems that vibration of some sort rattles them out of gear. Someone may have switched the 3-4 collar with the 1-2 during the rebuilding process. It is hard to tell a good one from a bad one.

 

When a Muncie under decceleration slips or jumps out of 2nd gear usually its a bad gear or slider, or both...

When this trans was rebuilt, what new parts were used??? Crash

 

im not sure.. all i know is the guy i bought it from said the guy he bought it from had the engine, trans., and rearend all rebuilt at the same time..
thats all i know
is there any way to tell if it needs new gears or sliders without takeing the trans. out?
thanks

 

You have no choice but to take the tranny out. Either you were lied to or the trans was rebuilt incorrectly.

Do it right the first time .

 

Thrust washers and proper clearance is very important when rebuilding. It may be possible that when you let off on the power that the input or tailshaft is sliding fore and aft, therefore causing the disengagement of gear.

If the linkage is adjusted properly then the following in this order need checking:

Shift forks
syncro hub and sliding sleeve, this includes springs and ***** and the detent grooves that these engage
thrust washers and clearance.

 

thanks guys...big help

 

Do munchies not have detents to hold it in gear? Worn detents is what causes modern manuals to pop out of gear.

 

Usually the reason for 'popping out' is what others have said - worn 1-2 slider and 2 on the mainshaft!
Missed 1-2 shift is usually the reason - from sloppy or worn-out linkage, and/or bad synchros.
Edges of the gears get worn-down and rounded.
If you've never had one apart, find someone who has, as there's about 100 needle bearings, that fall all over, and 3 or 4 different sizes!
Overhaul kits are available, as are most parts, individually.
Not for the inexperienced, as one bearing not installed correctly, will produce around 80 pounds of junk!
I used to skip second and not downshift to promote longevity - helps the motor too!

 

well im going to be ordering a rebuild kit, but there are alot of opinions when it comes to what the problem may. any suggestions on what i should order? should i order new gaskets, and syncros?, new gaskets and 2nd gear?, gaskets, and sliders?, sorry for if its a dumb question but im really pretty new to transmisions
thanks
joe

 

Most advise here is sound and correct. My opinion is that you have combination of worn and rounded small teeth on the 2nd gear (not the large teeth) and the edges of the slider teeth are equally rounded. Both caused by missed shifts. sorry -- your fix is to replace 2nd gear and new slider. Smart money says to install a whole new synchronizer while your at it instead of just changing the slider. Cluster gear need not be removed for this job so you dont have to fight all those needle bearings on the cluster shaft. You will still have the larger needle bearing in the rear of the input shaft to deal with but thats minor.
MOO! ( My Opinion Only)!!! My advise is free --- and remember -- you get what you pay for in the real world!!! LOL

 

great in info, thank you
ill order up a gasket set, 2nd gear, the slider, and sync.

 

FWIW there is a difference in rebuilt and fixed in most cases these days. someone puts new seals and/or bearings in and they consider it rebuilt. this is a common problem with most things starters being the worst. they clean the armature and install new brushes and sell it as rebuilt but the cause of the problem (usually worn bushings) never gets repaired. this is one of the reasons that "rebuilt" means nothing to me unless I talk to the rebuilder and know exactly what was done.

 

Pops out of 2nd. gear-very common gear f/ them to be worn., worn synchros. does that.