Still contemplating switching over to a manual trans from my TH350 (currently blown).

One thing I need to know is the info to drill the crankshaft. What do I need to take to the machine shop? I am pulling my engine apart soon and want to take a spec sheet with pics or whatever to them when I take the crank in. I want it to be simple to the point, just in case they are not too familiar with it (obviously if they ummm yyyeah a lot, or slur/slobber, etc. I will go elsewhere).

I have a column shift, and see that Fusick sells column shift speedo faces. Can I just use a new face on my existing speedo to cover the Park,R,D,S,L? I prefer to keep my odometer reading intact.

Also, can I use my existing auto column and remove the bowl where the shift lever was and put a new flat bowl on? If so, is that hard to do? I don't want to wrap a tach around it like some do.

thx.

 

Here's an old thread with crankshaft details and pilot bearing/bushing numbers. I used the diagram Dan posted.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ans-crank.html

I've never had a speedometer head apart, but believe you could change the face as you said.

I think it would be easier to swap in a floor shift column then take yours apart. But I've not had good luck taking columns apart and getting them back together! John

 

thx... no link though

Also... I noticed that you have too many cars in your sig... I will take the 70 442 4-spd plz, thanking u.

 

Oops! Fixed now! You gotta take the 1971 first, so you'll have consecutive years

 

thx.

Dunno, looking at the pic/posts... it kinda scares me a bit. Snap ring? Would hate to ruin the crank.

 

Perhaps I can find a factory 350 4-spd crank instead. I am sure there are several thousand lying around

 

Some used a snap ring, others used a punch to put a dimple on the edge and hold the bearing in place. I had a crank drilled for the 400 motor and the machine shop tapped in the pilot bearing. I'm really happy with the results.

Ya know, if you wern't a gazillion miles away I've got a 350 engine that was a factory 4 speed motor. Complete with crankshaft and snap ring. I'm sure it would cost twice what the engine is worth to ship it to you though. John

 

Interesting. I am assuming they are all similar and will work fine in my '72? You take $1.00 for it + shipping?

I also see there are 2 diff types of bearing/bushings? One looks like a regular roller bearing and the other is a bronze bushing. Does it matter which one to use? I seen olite (sp?) mentioned also.

Not quite a gazillion... I do have a Niagara Falls, NY addy (14301). It's a mail forwarder I use strictly for car parts. It is about a 1/2hr away, and comes in very handy. For parcels, I just drive over and pick it up if I want. For example... ordering from GMPD. They require a US based CC and shipping address, and I have both. Makes like much easier, as I would not be able to order from them otherwise.

 

BTW, what heads are on that 350?

 

Forgot... I also need a nice set of 350 valve covers and stock exhaust manifolds if you have any.

 

I used the roller bearing, but I remember a discussion where several guys here preferred the bushing. So I guess that's a personal preference.

Not a gazillion, but when it comes to large items the shipping costs can easily make it too expensive. If you don't want to drill yours, maybe one of the guys there on the East cost will have a crank for you. This engine is a 1969 block but has #6 heads so a previous owner mixed and matched parts. I got it in a 1968 Cutlass. I should have the valve covers and exhaust manifolds but it would likely be next weekend before I'll be able to dig them out. John

 

I am using the bronze bushing because of the high probability of clutch dust getting into the bearing and causing it to seize up. The machine shop that is building my 455 for the 48 has seen several transmission input shafts chewed up by the bearing seizing up and only installs them for owners after he explains the problem and they still insist.

 

Use the measurements from the Mondello Tech manual, and install the BCA7109 bearing.

Works flawlessly.

 

Well you shipped that cast iron intake. I am curious anyway what shipping $ would be.

 

You can get a drilled 350 crank out of a later 350 or a 403.Depending on who you get the 4-spd box from,they might void any/all warranties,if you do not use their recommended bushing or bearing.