Any tips on getting this bad boy in without removing the crossmember?

 

I believe that is probably impossible. The crossmember is only a few bolts. I just don't see the big deal. Am I missing something?

 

Got it in. Had to top it forward and set tail shaft up on crossmember. Over the years people jacked the car up all along the sides so the crossmember is wedged in and takes a small sledge to hammer the thing back and forth so way too much work to take it out lol. Next issue is the internet came with the transdapt kit for my Chevy tranny are too short so can barely get a couple bolts started to hold it. I'll live to fight another day. Fun times lol.

 

Yeah. Pull the body off the frame.

Seriously, there's a reason why the crossmember is bolted in place and not welded...

 

Yeah it should have been very simple, but as I'm finding out someone is stacking the deck against me, mostly myself lol.

 

It's four bolts plus the e-brake cable. What's the problem?

 

All along the sides of the tail where the crossmember slides is all crushed from people I assume jacking the car along there,causing it to be a real pita to slide it. No biggie it's in now so on to the drivers side header andnshif linkage. Getting close.

 

Yes, and you want to straighten that flange out if possible. Otherwise the crossmember and trans will be too close to the floorpan and the driveshaft may rub on bumps. I had this problem on my 70 W-30. I used a very large adjustable wrench clamped over the lower flange of the frame and a long piece of pipe over the wrench to bend the flange down.

 

Ya that is the plan. Wasn't patient enough to do that first lol. Just want to hear this thing run

 

One more question. For now. Lol. The trans adaptor came with fine thread bolts. I know the block holes are for coarse threads. There are 2 holes that only go through the trans into the adapter plate and 4 that go into the block. Should I use coarse threads on all6? We had one finenrhread bolt on one of the spots that do not go into block and it won't tighten. It threads through the adapter plate but once it starts to get right it just spins and loosens. Should we just thread the coarse bolt through and tighten it up?

 

Not sure I understand your question. There are six holes in the bellhousing face of the block. The bottom two are common to both BOP and Chevy transmissions, so you need longer versions of the stock bolts in those two holes to account for the thickness of the plate. The other four bolts from the plate to the block should use countersunk allen head bolts, and obviously these need to match the threads in the block.

As for the trans to plate bolts, are the holes tapped in the plate or are they through holes with nut and bolt? If tapped in the plate, use the bolts that fit. If through holes, the bolt and nut need to match.

Didn't this plate come with instructions? Does it have the spacer for the end of the crank?

 

There are no instructions. 2 of the bolts go through the trans case, then through the plate only, not into the block at all. They sent 4 short fine thread bolts and 2 longer coarse thread bolts in the kit. The plate holes are threaded but I believe they are coarse like the block. I think they just put some wrong bolts in my kit. I just went and got my own bolts and got em done.

 

Next problem. Trying to bolt crossmember back in and if we line up one side (the outer frame bolts) then the other side is way off. It appears the crossmember is hitting the trans pan. This trans has a much deeper cast oversize pan. It's strange that one side will line up. Also had to pry the trans over half an inch or more towards the drivers side of car to get the crossmember to trans mount biktsnto go in. Ideas? We are thinking need to take crossmember out and grind the front edge down but really don't want too lol

 

Well I have up for a day or so. Went to bolt converter to Flexplate and it is wedged in tight against the crank spacer, and the tabs on converter are a good half to 3/4 inch from the Flexplate. Cannot spin converter. I made sure converter was seated, 2 solid clumps so I'm not sure what the issue could be. Wish I would have just had the 350 built and never even touched this engine. Probably going to be out just as much money or more going this rote. You live and learn I guess.

 

Took apart and founds spacer/bushing from crank to converter not all the way I way on converter snout. Took emery cloth to converter snout, tapped bushing on with hammer and re installed, now all is good. Hopefully finally we are over the hump so to speak.