American Lead

well. I got the bands "adjusted" in the transmission today and heres what happened... i really need some help because i'm starting to feel like i'll never be able to do anything with it. so heres what happened... started it up... it was non responsive to any gears... it lightly swayed foreward when you stomped on the gas... so anyway after numerous jumpstarts and adding fluid untill it sucked it all through everything i did get it to move about 6 or 7 feet and it made a metal on metal grinding sort of noise and dragged me to a hault... it then did nothing... still unresponsive, i pushed the 2 ton beast up hill into the garage took of the bottom pan and found the front band was a bit too tight, so i re-adjusted it (and the tranny fluid had a hint of burnt toast in it..) and bolted everything back together and still nothing happened at all.. so now i'm very angry and very discouraged and fustrates... i have no money for anyone to look at it so what should i do? I have a spare trannsmission (less the block) so i can interchange pretty much any part.... should i try the valve body? i am completely at a loss of what to do... i think i'll try the valve body and if that don't do anything i'm afraid thats the end of the line for the car for a long time anyway. is there anything that should be noted? Any suggustions? please help me...

ps did i mention it makes a clicking noise in neutral if i spin the shaft? (no fluid in tranny) is that a bad thing? it clicks lightly nothing loud or anything... oh and my radiator fluid boiled after i revved the engine for a bit... so i went to release the pressure under the cap but of course the cap exploded off soaking me and the car in boiling hot green **** and makeing a giant steam bomb and a really sore me... anyway tme to sleep before i get really mad

thanks guys,
Robert

ijasond

I'm not sure about your transmission, but I'm very curious about the rest of your post. How is it that you know enough to attempt your own transmission build, but you don't know better than to open a hot radiator? Once again, the rest of us are reminded why everything has to have a big red or yellow warning on it.

American Lead

{I'm not sure about your transmission, but I'm very curious about the rest of your post. How is it that you know enough to attempt your own transmission build, but you don't know better than to open a hot radiator? Once again, the rest of us are reminded why everything has to have a big red or yellow warning on it. }

Well theres a story to that rad cap.... i had the cr running fo maybe 30 seconds and it started spewig fluid everywhere (i'm on a well so mom started flippin ****) so anyway i'm running like a madman with hose clamps and i realize that the rad cap is only tightened to the first notch u know what i mean? So i figure i got to tighten it but it won't secure so i back it off a bit to push it down and foof suddenly it's explodes everywhere....damn

I'm going to return to the first and best suggestion I offered on your last thread, find a good or promising used trans - I said then, and I repeat now, you might get one for very reasonable if you relate your sincere desire to get your car on the road - They simply are not that rare, you cannot wait for one to drop in to your lap - Start talking it around up that way, you will undoubtably turn one up - Get a 1953,54,55, or early '56 Oldsmobile or Pontiac transmission - Some others may also work, at this instant I'm not sure - CW

i'll try but theres no money for one and i can't find any in canada but i will keep searching and remain optomistic... but for now i'm gonna swap that valve body and cross my fingers

Olds64

If you have a spare transmission then swap the entire transmission out. Don't just swap the valve body. I guarantee you that you don't have a valve body problem. The only thing you would do by swapping the other valve body is potentially ruin the second valve body.

Swap to the other transmission and drive the car until you have enough money for a transmission shop to rebuild it.

American Lead

Hi, The other transmission is all apart in a bucket because the block of the transmission was eaten away by an incorrectly instaled planet carrier and theres only about 1/8 of an inch left in the middle so it's screwed... so if i shouldn't swap the valve body where should i look at?

88 coupe

'53-earlier will not interchange. '54-'56 used the "Slant pan" configuration. Trans was rotated to the left, so the side pan would clear the new floor.

Hydro was used through '56 in the 88 and its Pontiac equivalent. S88 and 98, and the other Pontiacs used Jetaways.

Or '54-'55 Cad. Olds bell housing must be used with Cad or Pontiac trans.

Norm

88 coupe

Slipping clutches, due to a lack of fluid. Without fluid, it only takes a few seconds of "stomped on the gas" to burn them up.

Not part of the problem. In the day, it was often done to improve an "erratic" 2-3 shift. If it was loose, it might have slipped in first and third gears.

Fried clutches, from running it without fluid.

Both the front and rear units. While they are out, visually inspect both "oil delivery sleeves". Use the one that shows the least wear.

Not part of the problem.

It is normal.

This time, put at least 8 quarts of ATF in it before you start the engine. Before you put it in gear, add another three. Then, put it in gear, and see if it moves.

Norm

88 coupe

Dual range (NDSLR) dates back to '52. If it had bands, and no P, it was a Hydro.

Norm

American Lead

Hi Norm,
Thanks for your response... heres where i'm at... I called my uncle who's a mechanic and he said it could be air locked so i put it up on jack stands and started it up... it spun the wheels foreward for about 1 minute then it stopped and didn't do anything.... the movement is the same in every gear without any change... I also swapped valve bodies and just like norm said... it didn't change anything. i have plenty of fluid in it (11 quarts) and the best of every part was used when i assembled it... I'm really stumped now... and really bummed out... i think it's time for a break... and theres coolant pouring everywere when it runs from somewhere where i can't see... but thats the least of my troubles now....

Thanks norm... is there any tests i should run? I'd like to try to get it to move myself because a mech just isn't in the budget

Thanks for your help,
Robert

American Lead

Hi Norm,
Thanks for your response... heres where i'm at... I called my uncle who's a mechanic and he said it could be air locked so i put it up on jack stands and started it up... it spun the wheels foreward for about 1 minute then it stopped and didn't do anything.... the movement is the same in every gear without any change... I also swapped valve bodies and just like norm said... it didn't change anything. i have plenty of fluid in it (11 quarts) and the best of every part was used when i assembled it... I'm really stumped now... and really bummed out... i think it's time for a break... and theres coolant pouring everywere when it runs from somewhere where i can't see... but thats the least of my troubles now....

Thanks norm... is there any tests i should run? I'd like to try to get it to move myself because a mech just isn't in the budget

Thanks for your help,
Robert __________

Olds64

You can attach a pressure gauge to the transmission and get pressure readings. This would give you a place to start if you had a service manual on the transmission.

American Lead

Good thought! Can i just use any pressure gauge? I got a compression thing and i can size it correctly with some plumbing parts and just shove it in the drain plug bolt hole thingy?

(sorry that sounded really uneducated but i'm almost asleep)

Olds64

Negative Ghost Rider. You can't do it that way.

You will need a pressure gauge calibrated to read fluid pressure in the range your transmission operates. Unfortunately, I don't know what kind of pressure your transmission runs. In addition, you will have to find the pressure port on your transmission. You might check your local auto parts store. They MIGHT have a gauge you can rent.

d2_willys

I agree with pressure readings, sounds as if you reassembled the front pump or anything relating to the pump incorrect.

First thing is to get the fluid level correct. After that try the various ranges. Let us know if any of the ranges work with the rear wheels off the ground. If any work then that might narrow it down, but by what you said about the valve body not making any difference it sounds like a pressure problem.

Another thing is the TV rod, make sure it is adjusted correctly. (The rod from the accelerator linkage).

As mentioned the pressure gauge will need to be capable of reading the highest pressures listed in the manual.

Have you taken the big hex plug on the left top (near bell housing) out for any reason? This is the pressure regulator plug and if that is assembled incorrectly this would cause little or no mainline pressure.

Fluid level first, range check second, pressure check third. (You can check the mainline pressure in neutral and see if there is any pressure there.) If no or little pressure, then front pump or associated components are incorrect or faulty.

My guess, front pump incorrectly assembled or faulty.

PM me if you need more info.

Good luck

d2_willys

Robert:

Try looking at the following links for diagnosis:

http://www.autotran.us/HMdiagnosis1.html
http://www.autotran.us/HMdiagnosis2.html
http://www.autotran.us/HMdiagnosis3.html

I am thinking pressure regulator is sticking open (big plug on top of case) (code F2), line exhaust valve stuck open (code J1), or the most probable front pump slide (on vane type pump) (code P1).

Best bet is to check mainline pressure with gauge first and compare with the manual. This will tell you if you have pump or pump associated issues.

There should be a pipe plug somewhere on the case (probably near the pressure regulator or near the band adjustments) that you should be able to check the pressures.

I will look these up in my manuals tonight and post.


Good luck.

d2_willys

Robert: Try looking at the listed pages I got from this online service manual:

http://www.cogpro.com/chapters/G-Dua...atic/index.htm

pages 29,30,31,34, 63, 67, 94, 95. They will explain some of the possibilities I mentioned in my previous post. I will check the oil pressures in my manuals tonight and post tomorrow. good luck, and stick with it, you will get it working. Once you get it working you will get to drive and feel the thrill of a super low first gear and all of the other things the hydro does.

American Lead

Well I got it driveing It's the most embaresseing thing ever but the manual valve in the valve body slipped out of the linkage so it was cocked all the way back to the valve pan doing god knows what.... 1/2 an hour after finding this out it shifts great.... only problem is it's pouring rain out and snowing tonight and i have no front window in the car so i only took it to the end of the driveway but atleast it works now

Thanks guys for all your thoughts and effort to help me figure this out... I owe you guys one

Robert

PS tomorrow i'll take it for a good drive and report... i got a bad coolant leak from somewhere i have to figure out first though

citcapp

We will all show up to look and you can buy the beer. Glad you found the problem heck of a job getting that back together

d2_willys

Robert: Congradulations! You did great with a transmission most guys would not even mess with. Sounds as if you just had the manual valve stuck in neutral or in between a range. But the best thing, it was minor and not something you would have had to remove that box again.

BTW: If you ever need to do a pressure test, the plug near the band adjustment on top of case is the pressure port. And the pressures are: 50psi in neutral, 110psi in DR4 and 150psi in reverse.

Enjoy the ride!

Olds64

Good to hear that you figured it out. Let us know how it drives.

88 coupe

Good finds. Thanks.

Norm

d2_willys

Yeah, get that coolant fixed fast. That green stuff kills and fast. Don't get it in your water supply.

Once you break in the engine, try S range (Super). Used to use it years ago between Lo and S, never needed DR. (Super will shift to 4th at about 75MPH, then downshift under that. Good for drag racing. LOL. But seriously the trans will shift up, TV pressure and G2 pressure catch up to each other and the 3-4 shift happens.

Just one of many features the hydro has.