Got FITech and now having tranny problems
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 167
From: Des Moines, IA
Got FITech and now having tranny problems
Greetings! I’m a posting virgin, so go easy on me fellas. 
Got a 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible with stock 330 and 2 speed “Junkaway” tranny. Had a FITech and Pertronix module installed. FITech started on the first crank and seems to be doing quite well so far. But now my Junkaway is very unhappy. Hard shifts to 2nd at 3000 RPM around 40 MPH. Below that shift, it feels like I have it in low all the time. I think the switch pitch is no longer “switching and pitching.” Any ideas what may be the cause? I feel like the throttle cable adjustment may be the culprit. Thanks!
Got a 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible with stock 330 and 2 speed “Junkaway” tranny. Had a FITech and Pertronix module installed. FITech started on the first crank and seems to be doing quite well so far. But now my Junkaway is very unhappy. Hard shifts to 2nd at 3000 RPM around 40 MPH. Below that shift, it feels like I have it in low all the time. I think the switch pitch is no longer “switching and pitching.” Any ideas what may be the cause? I feel like the throttle cable adjustment may be the culprit. Thanks!
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,791
From: Northern VA
Greetings! I’m a posting virgin, so go easy on me fellas. Got a 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible with stock 330 and 2 speed “Junkaway” tranny. Had a FITech and Pertronix module installed. FITech started on the first crank and seems to be doing quite well so far. But now my Junkaway is very unhappy. Hard shifts to 2nd at 3000 RPM around 40 MPH. Below that shift, it feels like I have it in low all the time. I think the switch pitch is no longer “switching and pitching.” Any ideas what may be the cause? I feel like the throttle cable adjustment may be the culprit. Thanks!
Got a 67 Cutlass Supreme Convertible with stock 330 and 2 speed “Junkaway” tranny. Had a FITech and Pertronix module installed. FITech started on the first crank and seems to be doing quite well so far. But now my Junkaway is very unhappy. Hard shifts to 2nd at 3000 RPM around 40 MPH. Below that shift, it feels like I have it in low all the time. I think the switch pitch is no longer “switching and pitching.” Any ideas what may be the cause? I feel like the throttle cable adjustment may be the culprit. Thanks!Welcome. Who installed the EFI? The stock linkage is a rod, not a cable, and the switch that controls the switch pitch and the kickdown is part of the bellcrank assembly bolted to the firewall. If you have a throttle cable now, that equipment must have been replaced. What switches (if any) are being used to operate the trans? As always, photos will help us to provide useful info.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 167
From: Des Moines, IA
How fitting that my first reply comes from the Olds Fart himself, Joe Padavano! Been trolling the boards for years and read many of your posts. BUT... I’ve also been exposed as my knowledge stinks. I can change oil and belts and that’s about it.
An outfit in Des Moines IA that specializes in custom restoration did the work. Not really happy with them today. May not even go back, but if I do, I’d like to take some Joe knowledge with me. The FITech required an adapter to go from spread to square bore. Then they said the linkage needed to be changed (the lever thing the rod connects to), because it wouldn’t go all the way back for wide open throttle. But that’s all I really know other than my Jetaway is suddenly not behaving properly. I had no idea where that switch is located. How is it actuated?
An outfit in Des Moines IA that specializes in custom restoration did the work. Not really happy with them today. May not even go back, but if I do, I’d like to take some Joe knowledge with me. The FITech required an adapter to go from spread to square bore. Then they said the linkage needed to be changed (the lever thing the rod connects to), because it wouldn’t go all the way back for wide open throttle. But that’s all I really know other than my Jetaway is suddenly not behaving properly. I had no idea where that switch is located. How is it actuated?
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,791
From: Northern VA
Well, without a photo, I'll only be guessing here.
The arc of travel on the throttle body needs to match the available arc of travel on the stock linkage, particularly for that switch. The correct way to fix a mismatch would be to change the throttle arm on the FITech unit. I'm not sure if that's what you meant by "the lever thing". Once the arcs of travel match, the switch on the firewall needs to be adjusted so the activation points for the trans functions occur at the intended throttle positions. That switch is pretty much unique to 66-67 Oldsmobiles, so I'd be surprised if that shop even knows how it works.
The arc of travel on the throttle body needs to match the available arc of travel on the stock linkage, particularly for that switch. The correct way to fix a mismatch would be to change the throttle arm on the FITech unit. I'm not sure if that's what you meant by "the lever thing". Once the arcs of travel match, the switch on the firewall needs to be adjusted so the activation points for the trans functions occur at the intended throttle positions. That switch is pretty much unique to 66-67 Oldsmobiles, so I'd be surprised if that shop even knows how it works.
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,791
From: Northern VA
OK, that helps. I can't tell if the wires to the round throttle switch are connected properly. There are three terminals on the switch. One is +12V in, one is 12V out only at wide open throttle (this is for the kickdown), and the third is 12V out at idle/low speed and again at WOT (this is for the switch pitch). You'll need a test light to see if that's working and when in the throttle travel that each one activates. You'll also want to check at the trans connector. There are two wires at the trans connector with the terminals in a "T" orientation. The top of the "T" connects to the switch pitch solenoid, the other leg to the kickdown. Verify power at those points at the right throttle positions also.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 167
From: Des Moines, IA
That’s awesome info Joe! Might put the multimeter to use. At a minimum I will print your advice and let those guys at the shop read it. I had no idea what that contraption mounted to the firewall was. Never needed to know until now. Everything just worked.
Best you could tell from the photos, did it look like the rod was connected properly?
Best you could tell from the photos, did it look like the rod was connected properly?
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,791
From: Northern VA
Yeah, but there is no way to tell if the arcs of travel match from a photo. There's nothing obviously wrong, so it's all in the details. FYI, it looks like the throttle rod is rubbing on the no 5 plug wire. That could eventually cause a problem if it is.
72 Olds CS
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 6,657
You need to keep the wires off the intake exhaust crossover ( like on the pass side) that crossover will melt those wires and probably leave you dead in the water.
I'm curious how did FI get to the top of the upgrade list before the engine or trans ?
I'm curious how did FI get to the top of the upgrade list before the engine or trans ?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 167
From: Des Moines, IA
RetroRanger: are you referring to the exhaust crossover pipe that runs from the driver’s side exhaust manifold and into the passengers side? If so, no worries there. That thing was removed for duals about 20 years ago. But good advice nonetheless. One criticical thing with FITech wiring is to run it as far away from other electrical as possible. It’s prone to pick up something called “RPM Noise.”
Started with FITech as an upgrade, because I plan to keep the 330 for awhile. It has 97,000 original miles on it and was completely rebuilt with stock stuff only 7,000 miles ago. Just looking for a reliable car that I can drive A LOT with less fiddling with finicky carbs.
Started with FITech as an upgrade, because I plan to keep the 330 for awhile. It has 97,000 original miles on it and was completely rebuilt with stock stuff only 7,000 miles ago. Just looking for a reliable car that I can drive A LOT with less fiddling with finicky carbs.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 167
From: Des Moines, IA
Olds 307/403....you are mostly right. The car first whispered that it wanted a TH350 and then I was like “ah hell no, you want an overdrive!” Now it is definitely screaming for a built 2004R from an outfit like Gearstar or CPT. Maybe sooner than later if the Jetaway finally shells out.
72 Olds CS
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 6,657
The intake has an exhaust crossover under the carb(FI) . See the middle runner just under the throttle linkage you can see the paint is burnt off it but the other runners are still gold. That runner gets hot asthe exhaust and will melt whatever touches it. On the passenger side there is a little clip on the valve cover that holds the wire or vacuum hose away from the crossover the drivers side needs something similar to hold those wires and fuse holders away from the hot runner.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 167
From: Des Moines, IA
Update........As it turned out, my problem was not related to the throttle adjustment at all. Trans wasn’t getting enough vacuum. FITech installer ran the trans vacuum from a throttle body secondary, which was too restrictive. Had to take it to an old school trans shop to figure it out. They ran the vacuum directly from a manifold port and just like that...all good again. I did also get those wires off the exhaust crossover. That tip saved me some serious grief. Thanks again to all who chimed in!
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