I'm having some trouble with my Jetaway transmission. I think it may be the throttle switch adjustment. I did replace a 2 bbl with a 4bbl and have not adjusted the switch. I'm looking in the manual and it says to disconnect the carb rod and move the switch lever but the picture is not very good and I can't see what lever they are talking about. I notice some people have a round switch but mine is square like in the picture.

Also, I bought a new vacuum modulator from Fatsco Transmission but it does not look the same as the one I currently had on my Jetaway. I put it on anyway thinking it was just a new replacement. I included pictures of the old one and what the new one looks like. Should this work? I'm not sure the old one is bad so I can put it back on if I need to. I only bought it because it was leaking at the o-ring and figured it couldn't hurt to replace the whole thing.

 

Is your carb opening up all the way when the pedal is pushed to the floor? After verifying that it is, then perform that adjustment. The switch for the torque converter actuates at 2 different times, 1st jet off the ide circuit and 2nd at 1/2 throttle and above. The kick down portion activates at WOT.

The modulator with the red stripe is adjustable as your original one is not. It can adjust your low power shift point about 5-7 mph. Other than that it will work the same.

 

It is opening all the way when I push the pedal down so I think I'm good there. I'm still not sure how to make the adjustment though. What exactly do I push towards closed throttle position? What in my picture is the switch lever they are referring to? I'm sure I'm just not seeing it but nothing seems to want to move like I expect it to I guess.

 

You didn't state what your problem is, only that you have a problem.

 

I'll take all the help I can get at this point so let me give a little background. It's a 1967 olds that originally had a 2 bbl 330 in it. It was smoking and had low compression in one of the cylinders. I bought a used 1966 330 4 bbl and swapped it out. I swapped the Q-Jet for a new Edelbrock 1406 4 bbl carb on it so the throttle linkage has changed.

So now I can't get the transmission to kick into low gear. I didn't do much to the transmission other than change out the vacuum modulator and change the pan gasket because they were leaking (It still leaks but I'll deal with that later.) It also bogs down when I floor it but only with a load on it. At idle it revs up just fine. From what I've read both of these can be because of the throttle switch adjustment. I guess due to the switch pitch transmission?

I asked about the modulator because it doesn't shift as smooth as it did before the engine swap so if I have the adjustable modulator I may have to play with that to get the shifting better or put the old one back on.

I'm no mechanic so take it easy on me.

 

My switch was bad, so I never messed with it, and now have a T400 in my car but here's some links to read. I do remember conversations on running an Edelbrock carb the linkage is way off and there are a few threads that address this.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...=1660722&pp=40

 

Is your switch pitch working? I can see you have the throttle linkage hooked up in the wrong position, its suppose to be on the lower ball not in the hole at the top. I know if it's not hooked up right or out of adjustment it won't work correctly, if it's not working right it will feel like it's not shifting but its the switch pitch not kicking in like it's suppose to.

 

So it has to be in that lower ball joint? I was afraid of that but this was the only way to get it hooked up with full travel with what I had available. I will have to see if I can correct that. Do you think that could be causing the problem? I ordered a new ball joint that I think will work to get it hooked up right and that should be here tomorrow.

I've been thinking of just swapping it out with a turbo 350 as soon as I can find some money laying around that the wife don't know about...haha. This Leakaway is dripping oil all day long in my garage.

I uploaded a couple of videos to youtube of the car running. The one is long (6 Minutes or so) but you can see the oil pressure and temp look good. Ignore the voltage as I didn't hook that up yet.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_s2W...ature=youtu.be

 

That's weird how the one video posted different than the other. Let me try that again.

 

Looks to be in great shape. Did you get your switch set?

 

No not yet. I can't see where there is any room for "adjustment". I'm going to try to get another ball joint and move the linkage to the lower ball on the throttle to see if that helps.

 

So I finally got a chance to hook up the new ball joint I got. I had to bend the threaded rod to make it have a nice smooth travel and I really didn't expect it to make a difference as it didn't seem like I had any more travel on the pedal.

Well, I was wrong! It made a huge difference. Now it kicks down when it's supposed to and I can also feel the switch pitch kicking in now. The power it has now is more of what I expect. No more bogging down when I hit it.

However I am experiencing something else as well. There is a hissing or sucking sound like a vacuum maybe at high RPM or if I push the pedal 3/4 to WOT. It sounds like maybe I am sucking air in through the fuel line? I'm not sure how to check that but that's my next thing to look at. I know the gas tank has some gunk in it and the fuel filter I had before I changed out the carb was getting full of gunk but that seems to have stopped.

Maybe change out the fuel pump? How can I check to see if I am getting air in the fuel line? I can try to post a video of it with the sound it's making but I'm not sure it will be heard real well on video. It's almost like a belt squeaking but it's not a belt. It's a little strange.

 

Could it be the secondaries kicking in?

 

I will be out of town for a week so I will have to video it when I get back. I don't think it's the secondaries kicking in but I guess anything is possible