Good day all,

Just planning my LH lower ball joint replacement on my 66'. I just ordered up my parts and have been reading the CSM as to how to accomplish the replacement. I'm thinking that it's probably possible to do this without taking the knuckle off but I think I'll play it safe and remove the knuckle anyway.

The only question I have is that the CSM says, if your pulling the knuckle, you have to pull the hub. Unless I'm missing something, if you pop the axle nut off, release the upper and lower ball joint, and tie rod end shouldn't the knuckle just come right off and you just have to remove the brake hose? Why mess with pulling the hub?

Again, maybe I'm missing something. I guess I don't want to mess with the front wheel bearing if I don't have to.

 

The hub is supported by the upper and lower ball joints. To replac a ball joint you have to disconnect the outer tire rod from the hub and remove the hub. I suppose you could leave the hub suspended by the upper ball joint, but once you're that far you MAW do both ball joints and the control arm bushings.

I just noticed this is in the Toronado forum. The hub will be on the CV shaft. You'll have to remove the CV shaft too.

 

Are you confusing the hub with the knuckle? I'm looking to remove the knuckle without toucting the hub. If it helps, check out my attached photo where I've highlighted the hub from the CSM. The "hub" they refer to in the CSM is the outer spinning assembly that the wheel bolts on to. It has the wheel bearing pressed on to the back side of it. You can see in the lower part of the photo where a slide hammer is being used to pull the hub as well. I believe it may be possible to pull the knuckle (with the hub still attached) without pulling the "hub", but obviously I'm not sure of this.

 

You can leave the hub and knuckle together. It's just really heavy, and easier to maneuver separated. Also, why not repack those bearing while you're in there. Although, that's how this daisy chain work...one more thing, one more thing. I just wend down this road putting air bags on my 72 delta 88.

 

ALSO!!!!! Double check your new parts up against your current ones. Parts places have been just sending whatever lately. Ask me how I know...

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but I do not think those front wheel bearings are re-greasable. They are sealed, see the picture below. Can you clean and repack those?

I did do my rear wheel bearings yesterday and those are the re-greasable type. I replaced them though for good measure.

Toronado front wheel bearing

 

From the looks of it, didn't you already answer this question yourself here? >>>3

SEALED bearings are NEVER serviceable i.e. capable of being cleaned & repacked.

 

Yeah, that's what I thought.

There are "sealed" bearings out there that you can pop the round seal out of and clean em up and put the seal back in but it definitely looks like these front ones are not like those.

 

Understand. Yes, there are several type sealed bearings. I'll back up a minute. "Sometimes" it is possible to clean & repack a sealed bearing - caveat - generally, if the seal is made of rubber and of the appropriate design. I have NOT cut open this particular sealed bearing to be able to state unequivocally the exact design of this sealed bearing; however, in consideration of the bearings' work requirement(s) e.g. high speed, you will most often never find a sealed bearing made of rubber - it will be metal.

 

Yeah, you're definitely right. I'm definitely not messing with that bearing.

It's a pretty neat bearing though, I must say. I ordered a set for the front off Rockauto to have as a backup, just in case, and it is a massive wheel bearing to say the least. My replacement is a Chinese bearing , unfortunately, so I'm pretty weary of using it. WJB, I believe, is the brand name. God only knows if it's decent quality but these things are hard to find.

 

TIMKEN doesn't offer a replacement? I generally shop TIMKEN for bearings.
I haven't researched this exact bearing, I see it on RA...I also see the exact same bearing on Amazon.

 

I try to buy Timkens as well. The rear bearings I just put in were Timken. I've searched on their site though and can't find a number that crosses with the 907770, unfortunately.

The only other correct bearing I have found is the really expensive one through Fusick and Caddy Daddy for the 67' Eldorado. Over 200$ each! I am not sure of the brand of those.....who knows, might just be a WJB. If it was a good brand, I'd consider grabbing them but the brand isn't stated.

 

Those bearings are sealed and no servicing is possible. They were "pricey" when I bought a pair from Kanter. If you get them from RockAuto, precisely measure them to compare with the original bearing sizes.

Motor home people have been using a slightly different bearing. This requires pulling the spindle, sending to California, and they grind it 010" U.S. to work with the available bearing.

 

Don't suppose anyone here knows the size socket you need to get the front axle nut off on the 66' Toro? The largest I have is 1 1/4" and it's nowhere near close enough. I suspect it's a 1 1/2" but not 100%. I have to order up a proper socket but would like to have the size right.

 

Your guess is right - 1-1/2". I bought one years ago just for this purpose.
Good luck with your project.

 

Yep, you are correct. I measured it with calipers and it is indeed 1 1/2".

So to get back on track, I'll see if I can remove the knuckle without removing the hub when the ball joint arrives. Hopefully I don't have to pull it as I don't want to mess with that bearing if I don't have to