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Tech Editor's DeskProjects, papers, writings, thoughts, musings of our technical editor Joe Padavano. To begin with, he will be making threads and can approve posts to it if he wishes. This can be changed in the future if it does not work out well.
Ok. So I took my car out for a cruise today it was hot out, 80 or so. I got on it a few time to open up 4 barrels (it acts like it’s out of gas when they open) any way got home and went to bank into the barn and the oil light was flickering and came on but if I give it 1-200 rpm it’s off, oil looked kinda thin only about 65 miles on the oil did smell a little like gas but still on full mark. Any ideas?. It has straight 30 in it. I’ve read 15w40 ? Thanks guys
I suppose so as I was able to back out of the garage and idle in the driveway with the engine running. The trail of liquid down the driveway and the gasoline pouring out the weep hole in the fuel pump were indicators that something was awry.
I think you are describing two different issues. The stumble when the 4 bbl opens is probably or at least could be a bad accelerator pump. The thin oil on the dipstick and the smell of fuel sounds like a bad fuel pump. They (fuel pump)may or may not show leaky fuel on the out side and still be bad and run.... Just my thoughts ...Tedd
Connect an external oil pressure gauge to measure the oil pressure. Take the car for a long drive, use some zip strips or tape to hold the gauge to the windshield while you drive, and to hold the oil line out of the way of moving parts. The oil light comes on around 5-7 psi. If the engine has more pressure than that, replace the sender. If not, either you have engine problems, oil contamination (gas,coolant,etc) or the wrong weight oil.
If the fuel pump pump diagram was leaking enough fuel to thin out the oil, the oil level on the dipstick would be slowly going up. If in doubt, replace the pump, change the oil. Far cheaper than engine repairs or replacement.
If your fuel pump diaphragm is cracked and leaking enough fuel to back up into the engine, it should also be coming out the weep/vent of the upper portion of the pump housing. So, leave your car over night. The next morning, pop the hood and look at the top and sides of the fuel pump. Feel it with your finger. Is it wet? The answer is no, but this is an exercise so you know the difference.
Now, take your car for a drive and then park it. Pop the hood and observe the top and sides of the fuel pump. Feel it. Is it wet? If yes, your fuel pump diaphragm has cracked. Modern gas (10-15% ethanol) is hell on classic cars.
Note that you should also have a strong gas smell for thirty minutes or so until the excess evaporates and the engine cools. This is especially noticeable if you park your car in a garage.
Agreed dont use straight weight oil. 10/40 or 15/40.
Always run ethanol free in any carbureted machine.
80*F with RH of 80% and a dew point of 70* IS HOT...Humid tropical hot. Like step out of the shower and step right back in. Different from oven dry hot. 120*F is hot dry or not!
Big difference from you lucky southwest desert dawgs. A 110*F Phoenix day with 20% RH feels like an 85*F humid New York day, with the exception of the moisture-wicking capability of the dead humid air. Hate humidity. Give me desert dry heat any day!
I might have a different view on 30wt oil because I think that's fine. I don't think you can gain a thing by changing to a multigrade oil. Or even a simple oil change.
I won't comment on whats hot or not.
I don't think any one brought up a possible reason and solution as to why the oil light flickers at idle. My theory is the oil pump pick up is probably somewhat clogged from bits of plastic broke off from the factory timing chain. I like the idea of installing a pressure gauge and confirming the pressure. This is common in older high mileage Oldsmobiles. But I'm afraid dropping the pan and cleaning out the bits would be the solution...and of course installing a new timing chain.
Now, I think the engine is going to fine for the time being, but this should be put on your to do list.
So got a gauge on and it has plenty of oil pressure. Light is on almost all the time now. There is no play between moving the crank and the distributer So don’t think that nylon teeth are gone, guess it’s the sender Idling hot Revving at 3000 rpm
June 23rd, 2019, 08:55 PM
