Joe, I have a question for you, or for any one else with input. This is not a Olds question but could pertain to one. I have a 1956 F100 with a 80's Ford 300 6cyl. When i put it together I used a repop original style gas tank. I have had multiple carb problems (clogged jets- sticking float, etc). I am pretty sure this is happening because there is weld slag, dirt, etc, inside this tank. The carb is a Carter YF, with a threaded filter at inlet of carb which has been replaced 2 or 3 times, but it has allowed this junk to get in carb. As far as I have seen the auto manufacturers never put a filter on the "suction" side of a mechanical fuel pump, always on the discharge side. Do you think I could put a filter before my fuel pump to hopefully stop this issue? It seems to be great until I take this truck on a trip, did it last year in Pennsylvania and again this year in Kentucky. What cha think?? Thanks Greg.

 

Greg - Personally, I've never placed an in-line fuel filter on the discharge side of a mechanical fuel pump. I installed an in-line fuel filter before the mechanical fuel pump on my 71 CS 350 convertible w/ absolutely no issues. If I were going to mount an in-line fuel filter it would be prior to the mechanical fuel pump. I'd prefer the slag & gunk were filtered prior to hitting the mechanical fuel pump's diaphragm.

 

BTW, I used the Wix #33033 metal 3/8" inlet and outlet 20 micron filter media. $9 bucks @ O'Reilly Auto Parts & most auto parts stores.

 

I've done it both ways and either way works. The only reason I prefer the discharge side is because I don't like fuel running into my armpits changing it on the inlet side.

 

That can make for a bad day.

 

I stuck one on the inlet side of the mechanical fuel pump of my '66 Toronado. I know some experts say you shouldn't do it but everything seems to be running fine. Maybe it's only a problem for racing applications? I used the same Wix filter oldscutlass shows in his post.

 

I've used inline filters on the suction side on several vehicles to prevent trash from messing up the pump. It can't hurt. Be sure to use a high flow filter. For stock-ish applications I like the Wix 33033 also.

 

I have also run filters on the inlet side of pumps without issue. If it was my truck, I would remove and flush the tank, and lines.

 

My 71 98 has a fuel filter on the suction side of the fuel pump.

 

Thanks all, I am gonna try it!

 

Drain the tank and clean it.
Make sure the suction line has a strainer "sock" on the pick up end in the tank.

 

I used one back @ the tank on my 66 442 3X2 so the judges couldn't see it and had no issues what so ever. I've also used them between the line and suction side with no issues.

 

There's no shame in siphoning the tank before hand, then disconnecting the fuel line at the pump and letting it drain while you have a beer before beginning work. I even swabbed my dad's corvette's tank when I did the fuel pump last winter because you can do that on those cars.

 

I've found that the lazy way to empty a tank is to disconnect the fuel line at the pump, run it into a catch can, and use shop air at the tank inlet to pressurize the fuel out of the tank. Use a rag and a blow nozzle in the filler neck. Be careful not to overpressurize the tank when you do this (ask me how I know this... ). This gets most of the fuel out, to the point that the tank is light enough to drop easily.

 

"Be careful not to over pressurize the tank...", very true advice. Saw what happens from that over 40 years ago.

 

I just back the car up on my ramps and siphon as much as will come out. The tank isn't heavy at all with whatever amount is left in there. My Toronado's tank is pretty low to the ground like this and I can still get most of the fuel out.

 

Has anyone seen the Dave Frieburger/Roadkill fuel filter setup?

Anytime Dave or the guy from Junkyard Rescue revives a long dormant car or truck, they will string a bunch of those cheap inline filters together. That way when the first filter clogs with crap from the tank and lines, you simply remove the clogged filter and connect the line to the next filter and keep going. When it clogs, remove it and reconnect the line to the next filter, and start driving again.

Eventually, the filters catch all the trash, or hopefully you made it home so you can do a proper repair.

 

That's funny right there!! I'm not gonna drain the tank, It is a new repop- not rusty but I think they got slag in it when the 12 year olds assembled it in Shanghai... I'm gonna order another factory filter and a Wix filter and put it inline between the fuel pump and line from tank.

 

There is no strainer- never was made for one. This thing is completely different than what we were used to in most cars. There is a hole about 2" in diameter that the float goes in thru. The fuel line is separate. It is actually welded to the bottom of the tank and had to be installed before the 2 halves of tank was assembled. You can see it thru the hole if you use a small bic lighter and look thru the hole... NO NO , maybe better to use a small flashlight..... Yuk Yuk...

 

Yeah, I was thinking the same.

 

‘I am stealing this idea for my 66’s

 

Call me crazy but the last 5 tanks I’ve had new or happened to have out of the car, went to my friendly radiator guy to braze in a 1/4” NPT bung in the low spot on the bottom. I put either an Allen head plug or regular old drain **** in. Obviously tanks being reused get thoroughly cleaned out.

I’m missing a leg & half a pelvis and this sure makes draining, tank removal or gauge verification a simple, easy procedure, especially since I’m working alone, though I was doing the drains prior to my “situation” befell me..

​​​​​​….

 

bccan, oh man... sorry to hear of your injuries. That certainly does make it tough to do any car work. -Ordered the fuel filter today....

 

Thanks for the kind words, just hit 6 year mark pretty much on the nose. I get by surprisingly (at least to others) well, but everything takes a lot more time, effort, ingenuity and determination. Happily I have a 4 post lift and doing underside work while sitting in my smaller “gimp scooter” makes for almost leisurely toil!

I even replaced the flex plate & converter seal, along with a rear axle swap in my el Camino recently, didn’t even manage to hurt myself!
…

 

When I changed to EFI, I added a 100 micron filter just after the tank. Whether it did anything, who knows. I still have it in place with the Qjet with the Napa Gold 3/8" metal filter before the carb.

 

--Well guys, I took truck down state last Saturday and didn't make it back. Ran great on way down, then shut off at my buddies place for about a hour. When restarted it sort of missed, then when accelerating bucked and snorted. I stopped and looked everything over and seemed better. I thought -of course- that the fuel tank, crud, etc, was the problem. Well I decided to hit the highway and it ran fine for about 15 miles. Then right after a exit, it quit. Next exit was maybe 7-10 miles. But it started running again! I decided to forge ahead and stop at next little town and leave truck there. Made it about another mile and it quit for good.... Had to get a wrecker. Had it towed back to a big truck stop.
-- Next day went down with a towbar. Truck started right up, but still decided to tow it. Good choice.. it never would have made it. Next day I am trying to figure out what I am gonna do about this "fuel " issue....Started up truck and it ran for about 3 minutes, then abruptly quit- like it was shut off- not like a fuel issue.. So I hooked up my timing light and when truck abruptly quits- so does timing light flashes!! Ignition is dying!! Bought a new coil and it's running great again-
-- Well I still may have a problem w/ fuel/crud/etc, or maybe it was all cuz of weak/dying ignition..

 

Do you have a points ignition? That's a bummer that she died.

 

No, Ford Duraspark aprx 1978. Still running good- been driving all over for chores etc- just not far from home yet.