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It's getting close to that time of year for Back to the 50's here in MN! Unfortunately, I think the Olds will be sitting this one out. I've known for years I've needed to replace front end suspension parts but today was kind of the "straw that broke the camel's back". I took the Olds out for a cruise to see if my brakes were adjusted correctly, and I came back home to find one of the rubber bushings from one of the control arms to be laying on the driveway. All of them have been cracked and disintegrating, as they're the original ones.
How tough of a job is it to get all of them replaced, both upper and lower control arm bushings on either side?
Assuming ball joints should be replaced as well?
I HAVE replaced the stabilizer bar links and bushings last year, myself.
Is this kind of work better suited for a shop who deals in classic cars?
As already mentioned, it's an arduous job. Get all your ducks in a row prior to tackling this job. You can do it on your own - plan accordingly. Unfortunately, I don't believe I have images of my worn out front upper & lower control arm bushings (I don't believe). I do have some pretty pictures & fairly encompassing dialogue on this thread including images of the upper & lower control arms I refurbished & re-used:
If you R/R'd the stabilizer bar bushings you could do the ball joints and control arm bushings. Plus, you can rent a spring compressor from the local auto parts store. The hard part will be finding the parts.
If you R/R'd the stabilizer bar bushings you could do the ball joints and control arm bushings. Plus, you can rent a spring compressor from the local auto parts store. The hard part will be finding the parts.
Fusick has all bushings, top and bottom, that need to be replaced. They also have upper ball joints on either side. I might start there and replace what is available when I can.
I'm assuming the upper ball joints need to be replaced. What's a sure-fire way to test those out? The wheel wiggling test while jacked up? If I'm going to be doing the control arm bushings, I might as well order those upper ball joints and get them R&R'd as well...
That's the logic I would use. Too bad only 1 lower ball joint is available from that eBay seller. Maybe you can rebuild your lower ball joints while you have the suspension apart.
First, the only way to correctly test for ball joint wear is to jack the car up so that the ball joints are not loaded. That means that the jack must be under the coil spring so that the weight of the car is on the spring (as opposed to the suspension being at full droop and the spring is applying tension to the ball joints). The tire should only be an inch or two off the ground. Use a pry bar to lever the tire up and down, checking for motion at the ball joints. Pull the top of the tire in and out to check the upper ball joint. And wiggle side to side to check the tie rod ends. I've found that it can help to have someone do this while I place my fingers across the ball joint being tested to feel for relative motion between the parts.
As for replacing the bushings and ball joints, while the right tools make this easier, I've done it with a propane torch, bench vice, and big hammer and sockets/pipe sections. While it's really messy, you can burn the rubber out of the bushings. Once you do that, a hammer and punch or chisel collapses the sleeve, allowing it to come out. Be sure you pre-position the cross shaft in the control arm before installing the first new bushing, or you won't get it back in. Be sure to hammer on the sleeve, not the rubber part, to install the bushing. A thin wipe of wheel bearing grease on the outside of the bushing helps it go back in. Take careful note before removing the old ones, as the bushings sometimes seat against an intermediate stop and not all the way against the flange. I've been able to hammer the old ball joints out and use a bench vice to press them back in. You can also rent the large ball-joint "C-clamp" tool. Do not fully torque the nuts that clamp the bushings on the cross shafts until the weight of the car is on the suspension.
First, the only way to correctly test for ball joint wear is to jack the car up so that the ball joints are not loaded. That means that the jack must be under the coil spring so that the weight of the car is on the spring (as opposed to the suspension being at full droop and the spring is applying tension to the ball joints). The tire should only be an inch or two off the ground. Use a pry bar to lever the tire up and down, checking for motion at the ball joints. Pull the top of the tire in and out to check the upper ball joint. And wiggle side to side to check the tie rod ends. I've found that it can help to have someone do this while I place my fingers across the ball joint being tested to feel for relative motion between the parts.
As for replacing the bushings and ball joints, while the right tools make this easier, I've done it with a propane torch, bench vice, and big hammer and sockets/pipe sections. While it's really messy, you can burn the rubber out of the bushings. Once you do that, a hammer and punch or chisel collapses the sleeve, allowing it to come out. Be sure you pre-position the cross shaft in the control arm before installing the first new bushing, or you won't get it back in. Be sure to hammer on the sleeve, not the rubber part, to install the bushing. A thin wipe of wheel bearing grease on the outside of the bushing helps it go back in. Take careful note before removing the old ones, as the bushings sometimes seat against an intermediate stop and not all the way against the flange. I've been able to hammer the old ball joints out and use a bench vice to press them back in. You can also rent the large ball-joint "C-clamp" tool. Do not fully torque the nuts that clamp the bushings on the cross shafts until the weight of the car is on the suspension.
Thanks for that info, Joe. I have a few pics of the worn rubbers of the bushings, one is completely torn off. My question is, could I drive the thing to back to the 50’s this year. I don’t have the time and money to get those replaced as well as whatever other ball joints I’ll need before then. Passenger side Passenger side
Thanks for that info, Joe. I have a few pics of the worn rubbers of the bushings, one is completely torn off. My question is, could I drive the thing to back to the 50’s this year. I don’t have the time and money to get those replaced as well as whatever other ball joints I’ll need before then.
I wouldn't drive > 10 miles. You'll be lucky to find you don't need both UCAs & LCAs right now. You continue to drive w/ bushings & ball joints in that condition you'll seriously damage the UCAs/LCAs and it appears from your images, you'll be lucky not to break a ball joint in two (a serious safety issue). Do not drive the car any further.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; Jun 10, 2026 at 04:00 PM.
I wouldn't drive > 10 miles. You'll be lucky to find you don't need both UCAs & LCAs right now. You continue to drive w/ bushings & ball joints in that condition you'll seriously damage the UCAs/LCAs and it appears from your images, you'll be lucky not to break a ball joint in two (a serious safety issue). Do not drive the car any further.
That’s what I needed to hear Norm. She will stay parked in the garage until I get the work done.
Mike - Assemble your tools prior to tackling this job. As Joe (previously) mentioned "You can also rent the large ball-joint "C-clamp" tool"; but, you can purchase one, also (recommended). Having the right tool(s) makes this job far easier.
You can often find them on eBay (both new & used).
I’m the dumbest guy on this thread, but just wanted to echo that control arm bushings and front suspension in general are not to be taken lightly. If they don’t work correctly, your safety is in question. Passengers too.
In both of my ‘66 restorations, I started with safety stuff - mainly brakes & suspension, and finished with trim, paint & interior.
Since I carry friend, kids, other family and all kinds of guests, the first thing my ancient cars need to be is as safe as possible. This specifically includes front suspension bushings that work as designed. My skills are not as advanced as others here. This is a job I’d leave to a trusted (and they’re getting more rare by the day..) professional.
When the rubber disintegrates & is lost from a UCA &/or LCA it creates a metal-on-metal (grinding) which can (and will eventually) produce a rounded-out hole where (normally) bushing(s) would seat. This increase in play (movement) will cause the ball joint(s) to begin to loosen and cause damage to the ball joint(s) themselves. This increase in play (movement) can also facilitate additional strain on the UCA/LCA attachment points quite possibly rendering cracks in the integrity of each UCA/LCA.
