I sent my down payment to Cutlassefi today for my small block stroker engine. Going all in! 4 inch stroke, aluminum heads, and EFI. I live at 7000 ft. elevation and Albuquerque is less than 20 miles away downhill. Albuquerque is slightly higher than Denver. Yeah, we're "mile high" as well. So I can go 20 miles down hill and lose 2000 ft elevation or go 20 miles uphill to Sandia Crest and be at 10,000 ft. so the flexibility of EFI seemed like a good idea. If I'm gonna throw down that much change for an engine I want it to breath right at any elevation.

I'll let Mark fill in the blanks as the build goes along but we're just getting started. And I have lots of work to do getting the rest of the drive train in shape for this much power. I'm building a 200r4 trans, and putting in a Corvette IRS. I also need to convert to front disc brakes so I can stop this thing. Gonna be a busy couple of months.

 

Can't wait to see the build details and dyno. I'm also looking forward to a stroker kit for my SBO in the next year or so. Not sure if I'll go for the aluminum heads, but EFI is definitely in the plans.

 

Prepping everything for the engine and my radiator is a bit worse for wear. It is a single core that looks like it has been through a battle or two. There are a couple I have found that look to be direct replacement. The measurements are exact for the existing one, but one is copper/brass construction and the other is aluminum. All things being equal, which is better? The price is more or less even, $4 difference.
The aluminum radiator...

https://www.autocityclassic.com/chev...tor-sl-282-at/

The copper/brass radiator...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectra-Pre...53.m1438.l2649

Opinions?

 

 

Get the first rad, dual core with big 1 1/8" cores. That build sounds awesome.

 

So how many cubes does this end up being ?

 

Why the need of a Corvette rear suspension?

 

According to the info from Cutlassefi, 425 ci.

Need has nothing to do with that part of the build. The IRS is out of an 85 Corvette which has the near enough same curb weight, track width, and wheel base as a 67 Cutlass so it seemed a natural fit. I want this car to carve a corner or two when it's finished.

 

 

Thanks Mark, I didn't know what the bore was so I didn't do the math.

 

That's an impressive "small" block.

 

That was the one I was leaning towards so I pulled the trigger on it. On the way!

Gotta admit, I'm like a kid waiting for Christmas about this engine.

 

Put-er-ther,
Good to hear your expecting a cool crate in the near future. Mark continues to exceed all customer expectations with his builds.
That will be a kick A$$ small block !

Oldsmobile continues to survive here on CO !
Cheers'
Eric

 

 

Mark is moving along with the build. He is sending pics along the way so I will share them with you all.

The block, top view


Being line honed,


Strapped mains,

 

The crank,


The rods,

Dunno why this pic is upside down, I've tried to correct it but it keeps coming out wrong. You get the idea though, right?

 

Strapped mains, interesting. Nice parts by the way.

 

Strike one and two! The aluminum radiator is back ordered and will not be available until possibly sometime in December and the other one is not as advertised. That one is an ebay sale for PepBoys so I stopped by and took a look at one. Plastic tanks and aluminum core. If it was a late model full-size I wouldn't have a problem with it but that type radiator just doesn't look right in a '60s car.

There are plenty of tig-welded aluminum radiators that would do the job just fine. Probably the same core as the one with stamped tanks. I just like that look if I can get it.

Maybe I'll wait for a while on the radiator. Plenty of other stuff to do before I need one.

 

Myself for my 70S, I want max cooling when the stroker goes in, need to choke down a $200 shroud as well. A good fit and look is a bonus. Hopefully it looks exactly like the picture and cools extremely well.

 

Following along with enthusiasm. Best of luck with the build. I feel that you are in good hands.

Dave

 

I just put 50% down so far on another SBO build Mark is doing for me, similar to this one! I'm excited to see your results! Any updates since the last post a month ago?

 

For cooling I ran a summit GM a body ( northern) radiator. With dual electric fans from a 95 9c1 caprice and a high flow water pump along with electric water pump drive eve after a long day of bracket racing in a 90 degree day it will barely hit 205 ish at a light and go right back down to 190 185 while cruising. but my set up is a bit backwoods and I run the water pump drive in reverse.

 

Heads are complete, cam is being delivered and the pistons are on the rods.


I have ordered the transmission and exhaust, to be delivered next week.

I ended up getting this radiator. Stamped tanks, 3-core aluminum, welded construction, and a great deal at $189. This unit has exactly 1 inch narrower tanks than the original. I couldn't go wider because it has to fit between the frame rails so for the price I can move the mounting brackets 1/2 inch each side. The seller lists the tank size and over-all dimensions so if you know what size you need, you can find it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Row-Aluminum-Performance-Radiator-For-1975-81-Firebird-Trans-Am/323176744379?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2060353.m2749.l2648


My evil plan is all coming together!

 

That is a nice looking rad, too bad it isn't a large two core. I had marginal cooling with my Champion 3 core rad in my G body with my 403. Let us know how it cools and the quality, not that I can buy it anyways, does not ship to Canada. I have considered the Griffin large 2 core which cools extremely well but also have leaking issues that cannot be fixed. Can hardly wait to see this done.

 

The quality is exceptional. I forgot that I took pictures of the live one. Here it is in captivity. This shows it sitting on the factory mounts. Drill the spot welds and move mounts a half inch and I have a perfect fit.

 

Looks awesome

 

Back to the engine. Like I told Mark, I'm like a kid waiting on Christmas and wanting to shake the boxes while waiting on this engine.

I have a few more pictures to keep me going.

The rotating assembly is in.

The oil pump is installed.

The pan fits.


Waiting on the cam...


Kid! Christmas!

 

How do you like the looks and fit of the Canton pan? Isn't it best to put in the cam first? Although we do exactly that with just a cam swap.

 

 

Moroso states that 1/2 inch warp along the rail is acceptable before tightening down. Mine has just that 1/2" warp.. Wondering it will crack somewhere on some point with that kind of warpage straightened just by fastening it.. Quess ill junk it and try Canton.

 

 

Can you post some pictures of the Canton pan please.

 

They only list one model for Olds

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...e-pan-baffled/

 

Looks legit.

 

Where's all the updates?!

 

Here are the latest pics I have. I've been trying to convince Mark that there is a lot more engine **** available than just the finished views. There is fun to be had in the undressed state.

Just waiting on the dyno results and shipping. Being a little non-PC, I'm like Bill Cosby in his "200 Miles an hour" skit. Like a kid waiting for Christmas...

 

 

Agreed! Looking forward to the results.

 

I think we are all a bit jelly.

 

lookin good !
I hope the 3 row rad with narrower tanks keep that bad boy cool. The circulation around the inner trans cooler could be marginal with a narrow tank. Is the trans cooler a 1 rib or 2 or 3 ? Most BB, HD, rads had 3 rib inner rad coolers . Are you considering running an auxiliary trans cooler or heat sink cooler as well.
I hope it works out OK .

Eric