jpc647

Anyone here converted or had converted an original Q-jet to an electric choke? I've come across a couple of them for sale, but haven't found a kit to do it. Anything bad about doing this?

I realized, in a real stroke of brilliance on my part, the edelbrock 2711 intake I bought doesn't have the space for the choke tube. If I end up needing to swap my Q-jet on, I won't be able to because it's set up for the hot air choke system.

Was planning on swapping intakes this weekend, but wondering if instead I should find the more common 3711 intake manifold with egr and choke provisions for future return Qjet if I so choose.

I don't want to spend another afternoon in a month changing intakes because I need the choke tube.

CP888

I just had the same problem. I ordered one from summit racing made by jet. Part number 201354. They are 22$

joe_padavano

Yes I've done it and it's extremely easy.

1) Go to RockAuto.com and buy this (Standard Motor Products P/N CV329):



2) Remove the old choke coil. Discard the gasket between the coil and the housing on the carb

3) Install the new electric coil

4) Wire per this thread:

Electric Choke Wiring

5) Enjoy easy starts at any temperature

jpc647

The description says they fit carb that originally came with an electric choke, which mine did not. Did this just pop right in? Can't really tell much from the picture. Are there two tabs on the other end, one for a pos one for a negative wire?



Thanks, I'll be looking into that. I guess just for looks, I could still set up the heat riser tube and such. Going to go look into the oil pressure switch too.

joe_padavano

All Qjet choke coils interchange. There is only one wire. Ground is through the housing, which is why I said you need to discard the gasket. The Summit price is about half the RockAuto price! Just watch Summit's handling charge that the tack on at checkout.

jpc647

Thank you. I did not know they were going to interchange. That's probably the easiest route to go.

The stock OEM intake is almost 50 lbs. The performer is only 18. Not sure how much the performer RPM on there now weighs, but I'll most definitely now just swap the Q-Jet over to an electric choke, should I not be happy with the performance from the 1405 and the performer 3711 intake. Definitely worth it to save the 30+ lbs. Good to know I don't have to go buy the 2711 intake!

BILL DEMMER

to do it right, you'll want to cap the hot air inlet on the choke housing, and seal the vacuum nipple between the choke housing and float bowl. all electric chokes are not equal, there are at least 2 different variations of wiring connectors, and the coils operate at different rates of opening/closing temp. and rate. some electric chokes use more current, others less.


bill

allyolds68

I bought mine from Cliff Ruggles when I bought the rebuild kit. It was about $40 + shipping. It works great. BTW my carb was a 7042250

Fun71

A flare fitting cap like the one pictured below works great for this.

allyolds68

It doesn't completely seal it because, as Joe and Bill stated above, you need to remove the gasket so there isn't a good seal around the perimeter of the choke plate.
I ground the head down on a small screw and epoxied it into the hole in the carb. The choke housing fit right over it

edit: I think you were refering to just the cap...sorry for the confusion....carry on

arodenhiser

I am about to do this upgrade/swap too. I got all my part numbers in order and hit the local OTC part stores. That was almost useless. No one carries it in stock. The best I could do was NAPA. They want $64 for the thermostat plus $17 for "to the store" shipping on a non-stock item, plus taxes. I was also looking for the oil pressure sensor. It was $18 plus the $17 "ship to store" charge. I asked if the "ship to store" charges would be combined if I ordered both. Nope. That charge is per item. If I ordered two identical parts I would pay the charge on both pieces.

Buying auto parts in Canada sucks. Rockauto is actually cheaper than local stores. Even when you include the shipping and duty for crossing the border the 3 parts I need are cheaper from Rockauto than local. That is plain stupid.

Just a rant. Thanks for all the great help in simplifying this DIY repair/upgrade.

Adam

DoubleV

Don't know what the boneyards are like in Canada, but around here there's not to many 'old fasion' ( aka 80's and earlier RWD cars ) cars but there always seems to be one here and there with an electric choke/Qjet. As long as the rivets were replaced by screws, I always grab em when I can. They don't even charge you for dinky items like that so they're pretty much free!

Store to store shipping should not cost you a dime IMO. They certainly shouldn't charge you multiple times assuming you're getting everything from the same store. That's just legal raping of the customer if you ask me.

arodenhiser

The yards here on the east coast, a salt air / salted roads in winter wonderland, you would be hard pressed to find anything older than a 1995. I even had a hard time finding some 15" SSIII about year ago.

Most of yards here don't let you roam. You ask for what you want if, they haven't picked it yet they will and bring it to you. Nothing's free here. Old stuff is worth more than its scrap valve because it all went to scrap when no one wanted it.

X2

Adam

oddball

Note that the coils come in two flavors - locking L tab (like the one pictured) and standard flat tab connector. If you get the L tab, then you need a matching connector. Carb parts houses, like quadrajetparts.com, will carry all of that stuff at decent prices. Joe's wiring is the /right/ way to do it, which means I did it simpler.

Super easy swap. Just make sure to throw away the gasket that was on the old coil. Also, the calibration marks may or may not have any relation to your setup, so it will take some experimentation to get it set.

Ideally, one would seal the vacuum source from the carb body when making this swap. However, it doesn't pull that much air, so just capping the housing is fine. Remember to also plug the now unused source on the back of the carb.

BILL DEMMER

and i also said...

you don't need any airflow through the no-longer-sealed choke housing, especially, unfiltered air.
one could thread a small machine screw, coated with jb weld, into the nylon nipple. grind off the head after you've screwed it in, and it'll never leak/fail, and it's completely reversible(with a very easily obtained new nipple).

bill