Mac, just for grins, have you checked your modulator and vacuum hose to make sure it's connected and not leaking? Also the kickdown cable to make sure it's not engaged? I know you said the fluid was a brown color which is an indication of issues. You can always get your T350 rebuilt, if you take it out yourself the trans rebuild will probably run you about $6-700 + torque converter if required.

 

I'm taking him at his word that when the trans shifts to second, it just spins, but those are fair questions.

- Eric

 

If you need a trans built mac I just got an a- in back yard trans building . I had my trans I built inspected so I'm a little more confident now. Just buy the rebuild kit and a case of brew I wont charge to fix it. Just letting you know. I have a good local tq. Converter shop that charges 100 to do a rebuild and reflash of the stall. That will put in in under 400

 

Modulator is hooked up at both ends, direct to intake, but is it leaking? No idea. I was assuming if it was a modulator/vacuum issue it just wouldn't shift. Like I said, if I let off the gas it doesn't pull me down and if I manually sift into 1st it definitely pulls me down. But very good questions. I'll have another look at the tv. But from new to dark brown in 50 miles? What's [interesting?] is that the fluid I changed was bright/clean red. No idea how many miles were on that fluid. It seems like I boogered something but I can't figure out what.

X2, good questions

Geez Copper, you're a generous fellow. And I might just take you up on your offer in the fall/winter. But I insist it cost me more than a case of suds. Need a portrait of the girlfriend? That's doable if from a REALLY good photo.

 

Uhhh, (other) Eric, I owe YOU a case of beer. The downshift cable, the NEW downshift cable was stuck. I have a working transmission! I realize it's not in the best of shape considering the brown fluid but hey, it's shifting and it seems smooth. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
Now, should I suck out that brown fluid with the trans-x in it or just leave it?

 

Personally I would drop the pan and replace the filter.

That's great news tho glad it was simple. I would still grab a core trans and build it up.

 

Well the filter that's on there is maybe 50 miles old. That's why I was just thinking a fluid change.
And yeah, maybe Copper and I can work something out. I really want a 4-speed so I can drop the rear gears some. Maybe 3.73s? But now I'm getting ahead of myself. Gotta get to that rust. It's not bad but I want it taken care of before it is.

 

Yeah you would be fine to just change the fluid I would do the same. From what I have read the 200r4 with some 3:73 would be a nice set up

 

Great! I'm glad that was all it took!

I would agree that you should change the fluid. I have no experience with that transmission additive, but from all I've heard, they're not too good for the seals.

- Eric

 

Mac I'm not intrested in making money right now. I need a few more transmissions under my belt before I can start charging a very very fair cheap price. I enjoy doing this stuff I just wish it wasn't on mine all the time lol. I know a few guys with cores so don't ship me one I can find one here by me. You don't need the 3.73's mac. Go with a 3.23 and you won't need the od. I'm rnning 3.73's but my car is borderline between street and strip.

 

I'll give her a few more miles and then do the fluid change. It definitely feels more responsive; it kicks into drive and reverse more quickly. I'm thinking maybe some of that brown color is from the additive cleaning up the valves? But what do I know.
Copper, who's not interested in making money?! Lol, no, I get it. But my offer of an artwork was legit. The budget is a little thin right now so let's talk in the fall. But I do think I want a 4-speed. This ol' girl is going to see a lot of interstate and highway so I'd like the mileage. But these 2.56s are soooo doggy. Does the 200R4 take a lot of modifications?
On a lighter note, I'm getting good responses from John Q. Public. Everywhere I go it's "hey, nice car" or "good looking Olds". So far, no "great Chevelle!"

 

The 200r4 cost more because it needs upgrades to hold even moderate powere levels. The th350 will take less to hold power . Personal prefrence. No rush mac just putting it out there.

 

And the 700R4 requires shortening of the drive shaft. Anything else? Or I could actually do my own research, lol.

 

Yeah, that didn't make a whole lot of sense. Seeing as how the fluid was brown when I extracted it to add the trans-x Lol, oh well.

 

Well, I used it. Cleaned everything up nice (the fittings looked pretty good), used a couple q-tips to make sure I didn't get any inside the pipe, and was careful not to overtighten. However, I didn't realize what you posted was "high temp". Mine was not. Although it does say it's not affected by steam, which is pretty hot. Time will tell.
Eric, do you give it 24 hours to cure?

 

Nope, in general, I use it right away. It never really dries.

- Eric

 

Excellent. Thanks.
I just discovered that the bat terminal on the new alternator is longer than stock and was pressed against the inside of the bracket. Glad I caught that one.

 

You would have smelled the smoke...

- Eric

 

Nope, no smoke. Just sparks

 

I had the AC charged today. So far so good but it's not very hot out yet. I'll admit I kind of half-as%#d it. I let my friend at Napa talk me into just taking it in for 134a. No new condenser, no POA calibration, just vac it and fill it. It did, however, hold a good vacuum. It's supposed to be in the mid-90s next week so I'll report back.

The technician also changed my vac can from manifold to ported, which he said Olds like better. I hate to say it but it does run better. Go figure.

Question; after how many miles should I change the oil and what grade? The local Napa has VR1 racing oil but only 20w50. Remember, I didn't rebuild the short block, just a cam with the old bearings and heads-up work. But I did use assembly lube on the cam, new rockers, lifters, and timing chain.

 

Most of the oil these days don't have the zinc and other additives that oil had. I would add the additive. I use 10w30 and add the additive that my oil rep sells, I can't remember what it was it's been two years sense I changed my oil.

 

The Lucas break-in additive is great for this. Since you're breaking in a new cam, I'd personally use a full bottle with the next (short-duration) oil change, and then after that about an ounce and a half with each change (I posted the exact amount on a thread somewhere on here in the last six months or so).

Definitely let us know how that A/C works out.

- Eric

 

Glad the trans was just the cable, the issue with changing the fluid is you can't drain the torque converter. So you will still have a few quarts of the brown stuff in there. You would need to give it a transfusion, pardon the pun.

 

Trans-fusion, lol. No, I know I can only get so much out. It is what it is, as they say.

I thought the racing oil had the zinc in it but I'll just use my regular old valvoline with the Lucas (which is what I used for the break in). Isn't 10w30 a little thin for hot weather though? But you fellas would know better than I.

Eric, you're saying the next change should be short duration as well? About how short would you say? I have maybe 150 miles on the break-in oil right now.

 

Mac,

Finally got through this whole thread. First let me say you did a hell of a job cleaning her up. From the engine compartment it looks like you did a frame off restoration. BZ. I'm in the same situation with my 69. It started with replacing a faulty alternator and converting to an internally regulated one, and I've already got the master cylinder and booster off and the windshield wiper motor out so I can get to the firewall connectors to re do all the under hood wiring. And I'm already thinking "That engine has a lot of oil leaks, wonder if I can fix em in place or maybe I should just pull the motor.

I do have one question though, why do you need to wait to put a 4 speed in to change your rear end gears to a higher numeric ratio. The lower ratio gears will work just as well with a TH350 as they will with a 4 speed.

Scott

 

I'd use 10W40 in the warm weather, especially with A/C, if all is well, and 20W50 if your oil pressure drops significantly when warm.


Personally, I'd do something like changing the first oil that you had in there when you broke the cam in after only a few miles,
and replace that with oil with a full bottle of additive, run that for a few hundred miles
and replace that with a full bottle of additive, run that for maybe a thousand miles,
and replace that with about 2 ounces of additive, but that's just me, with zero objective reasons for doing so.

- Eric

 

I would not use the 20-50 in your part of the country with a fresh rebuild it's too thick and too cool up by you. Remember it's not oil pressure that's important but oil flow, on cooler days you'll show extreme pressures but it can take 3-5 minutes to get flow through the rockers.

 

But it's not a fresh rebuild, Eric, he just replaced the cam.

If his pressure's stable, then he doesn't need it, but with all original bearings, if his pressure drops to 5psi hot at idle with the A/C on, I'd go to 20w50.

- Eric

 

I thought he did rings, inserts and new cam bearings. I agree with what your saying about bumping up the viscosity but I would go to 10-40.

 

Oh. Maybe he did.

What is this, about Page #436? I've kind of lost track.

- Eric

 

LOL! I know what you mean. This is a beast of a thread.

Anyway, no. No shortblock work other than the timing set and new oil pump pickup. The idea was to look for a big block after I got this one running. But that's down the road a bit.
I think I'll go with 10w40 and see how that looks. But here's the deal; the wife starts vacation Friday and she wants to hit the road. So we could be looking at 1000 miles + on this next oil change. Will that be a problem? Do I need to take my oil catch-pan and filter wrench with me?!

 

Thanks for the kudos, Hawg. It was a labor of love (most of the time). And good luck with your build. I'd lend you my MAW helmet but as you can see, it didn't work very well

The gears and tranny are just ideas I'm toying with right now. I don't have a lot of experience with this but I know when I started looking at classic cars I drove a couple of Camaros that had 4.11s with a three-speed and those engines were screaming at 55mph. I'll do my research before making any decisions but I would like decent mileage on the interstate but with some tug off the line, ya know?

 

Just do the oil change before you leave and you'll be good to go. What is your current warmed up oil pressure running now?

 

+1. Don't sweat it.

The question is whether to use the high-zinc "break in" mixture or the regular-zinc mixture (1-2oz per oil change).
There is such a thing as too much zinc, but I'd recommend using the whole bottle now, and then using the lower concentration after your trip, to be sure that your cam is fully protected until it is fully broken in.

And, yeah, what's your pressure?

- Eric

 

This is hard for me to admit but in the interest of full disclosure....I don't have gauges Risky, I know. But I'll own it if something goes kaput. I did, however, have the valve covers off and ran it. All the rockers seem to be getting the same/good amount of oil, so that's something.
Gauges are in my future but for now the budget has been shifted into the trip. Luckily the wife has AAA, which I objected to but am now glad about.

Split the difference? Maybe 3/4 of a bottle? I'll think it over.

 

In that case I would just use the 10-30.

 

What, no lecture? You guys are too nice sometimes.
I'll go with the 10w30. I still don't understand why the directions on the Lucas says to add it to the regular capacity of oil. Won't that overfill?
Alright, back to work.

 

How big is the bottle?

 

I've always used 10W30 in the winter and 10W40 in the summer in American cars, as recommended in the CSM and the Owner's Manual, but it's not worth arguing about.

As for additives and overfilling:
Don't worry about it.
There are no fixed limits for how much oil there should be.
As long as it's not way too much or way too little, you're fine.

- Eric

 

Right, it will just leak a bit more.......
Just kidding.