Noisey valvetrain
OK,I'm numb from this motor.Took the heads back off and replaced the valves as they were all different lengths from the valve job that was done on it and while I was in there I replaced the lifters as well,MAW.So,new lifters,pushrods,rocker arms,Perches,bridges stods,valves,valve guides.Put it all together it spells noise.I'm at my wits end.I really hate this engine.Also has new oil pump,polished the crank all new bearings.Going to drive it as is and see what happens next.The wife is buggin' me,"I want my car back"Then she says to me,"swap the engine from yours to mine"Like that's gonna happen.I've never had a problem as frustrating as this.I've had 3 mechanics with combined experience of 100 years tear their hair out as well.WTF!!!!!!!!!!!
They all have side to side slop.meaning they move side to side.All brand new sealed power matched parts.I give up.as far as I'm concerned this was not a good design and no one in Ct.can figure it out or wants to be bothered with it.
Stock,8.257 inches.Please ,not to sound stupid.But would that affect the side to side motion of the rockers?I've never seen a setup like this.I have always been lucky enough to have the rockers with *****.No side to side.It's tight otherwise.Again,I don't5 wish to appear stupid or whiney but this is just pissin' me off.
You need to get the proper length pushrods, which means you must measure preload or lack there of. The lifters are spring loaded and when not pressurized with oil the spring has very little resistance. If the intake is off and the lifters such that a pair has both intake and exhaust valve closed you should see the spring/plunger depressed a little. The rockers will have side to side movement. This depression is preload. With no preload your rockers will tap. You cant just buy stock pushrods and expect proper operation.
Getting plenty of oil.Now everything else is stock and was stock before.The heads weren't milled and the head gaskets that went on there were Felpro,same as what was on it before as the engine was rebuilt before I bought it.So what changed the geometry to the point that it needs different sized push rods?I am aware of how lifters work.The engine is back together for the third time in 2 months.I can't fit a feeler gauge between the rocker and the valve stem so I really don't know what length push rod would fix this problem.I know I could buy many different lengths of push rods and experiment ,but that's a little extreme.I really don't want to take the intake off again.That's getting a little old if you know what I mean.Tell me another way to figure out the proper length push rod and I'll be more than happy to try it.I had a full head of hair when I started this project,gettin' mighty thin now.
Last edited by ctsplicer; Jul 28, 2014 at 05:51 PM.
This would work better with the intake off so you can see what your doing.
Check your preload by collapsing the lifters (pumping the oil out of them) first and in the following order to see how much longer your pushrod needs to be to set the rocker arm to "0" lash + .125:
At 0 deg TDC, both number one valves shut.
Check the #1 exhaust valve
Check the #1 intake valve
Check the #3 exhaust valve
Check the #5 intake valve
Check the #7 intake valve
Check the #2 intake valve
Check the #4 exhaust valve
Check the #8 exhaust valve
Now rotate the engine 360 degrees. The mark on the balancer should be back at the TDC mark. Keep in mind that this is not the TDC where #1 would be firing! It's where #6 would fire.
Check the #3 intake valve
Check the #5 exhaust valve
Check the #7 exhaust valve
Check the #2 exhaust valve
Check the #4 intake valve
Check the #6 exhaust valve
Check the #6 intake valve
Check the #8 intake valve
Check your preload by collapsing the lifters (pumping the oil out of them) first and in the following order to see how much longer your pushrod needs to be to set the rocker arm to "0" lash + .125:
At 0 deg TDC, both number one valves shut.
Check the #1 exhaust valve
Check the #1 intake valve
Check the #3 exhaust valve
Check the #5 intake valve
Check the #7 intake valve
Check the #2 intake valve
Check the #4 exhaust valve
Check the #8 exhaust valve
Now rotate the engine 360 degrees. The mark on the balancer should be back at the TDC mark. Keep in mind that this is not the TDC where #1 would be firing! It's where #6 would fire.
Check the #3 intake valve
Check the #5 exhaust valve
Check the #7 exhaust valve
Check the #2 exhaust valve
Check the #4 intake valve
Check the #6 exhaust valve
Check the #6 intake valve
Check the #8 intake valve
as the engine was rebuilt before I bought it.So what changed the geometry to the point that it needs different sized push rods? I know I could buy many different lengths of push rods and experiment ,but that's a little extreme.I really don't want to take the intake off again.That's getting a little old if you know what I mean.Tell me another way to figure out the proper length push rod and I'll be more than happy to try it.
Here's a question for ya. When the engine was rebuilt, did the machine shop put the right cam back in? 330s have a different camshaft angle than 350s do. 39* vs. 45*. If the builder put in a 350 cam that could scroo the whole pooch.
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