I have a ton of moisture out my tailpipes. if I start it up to idle it will leave two long marks on the ground of moisture. There is also alot of water in the pipes itself. Is this ok? Normal? My friend thinks it is simply due to the fact that I have such a long exhaust system and goig form cold to warm creates all this moisture. But I have let it sit idling for more than 10 min and it still does it. Any ideas?

 

Do you have any "unexplained coolant losses"? If so, then you may be burning coolant.

If not, then it may be normal. Having a long exhaust system and big mufflers can be a factor also. After enough moist air gets in there and condenses overnight, you have a lot of water to steam off. Idling does not blow it out quickly, either.

I see many newer cars on the street dripping water from the tailpipes, but I think the emission controls convert pollutants into CO2 and H2O.
What year is your car?

I think on my old Ford, there is a small hole (1/8") on the bottom of the muffler to allow excessive condensation to drain out. Not sure if Olds or aftermarket has drain holes (I have not personally seen).

 

well it can pretty much only be oil or coolant if its not condensation . there are ways it could be tranny oil or brake fluid but those are super long shots . oil or coolant are gonna give ya smell/color clues . if it is just clear moisture out the back it is most likely just condensation . if it looks like it may be coolant and only happens when cool/cold you will see a drop in coolant level up front and could be caused by a slight head gasket or head/block crack that swells and seals up as it warms up . if that is happening then you may experience a slight ignition miss and one or more of the plugs may be extra clean lookin . a cold cooling system pressure test may be called for if you want to play it safe . del

 

A blown head gasket will show loss of coolant. I vote with your friend. It's either condensation or water in your gasoline.

 

Taste it, if it's sweet it's coolant. If the anti-freeze isn't disappearing like Rob said don't worry about it.

It sure sounds like condensation to me, my wagon blows water out the pipes all the time when I start it cold, everything does around here. Half as much since I got duels. If it sits and idles there is a nice size puddle below each tailpipe.
I have hunks of cardboard across from the wagon side exit pipes to keep things clean when I start it. Should put some chrome turn downs on the ends like some El Craminos.
I have tasted it, just water and carbon and stuff.
I did have a black ring around my mouth that was really hard to get off afterwards.

 

Hmmm... yum, yum.
I won't ask how the ring happened...

 

If you're concerned that you might have a head gasket leak then you need to do a cylinder leak down test. However, water is a normal by product of combustion.

 

My 72 Cutlass with a 350 and my friends 54 Super 88 do this when I crank them. If you have a temp gauge you should note the temp. If you have a blown head gasket, it is probably going to run hot pretty quick. I am betting nothing is wrong.

 

I agree with what others said about condensation. My Cutlass will do that as well but mostly since I have not been driving it that much. If you take it out on a drive on the highway for about 20 minutes, that should get rid of any condensation or water in the exhaust. If your car sits a lot as well, you also should put some dry gas in the tank.

 

X 2

Does more come from the drivers side than the passangers side?

 

Thanx Guys. It doesn't use any coolant, so it must just be condensation. I appreciate all the help.

 

Not just old Fords, virtually all of the old cars have these OEM drain holes. Look in your owners manuals and you'll see references to them and instructions to keep them unplugged!

Big exhausts and big engines make for *lots* of condensation from stone cold. Idling is not a fastest way to to get the moisture out, but will eventually. 10 minutes at idle very well may not be enough.

IMPORTANT: This is one of the main reasons it is not a good idea to start your engine periodically over winter (or similar longer term storage).
*Any* time when starting up, you should run the car until it is fully hot, and then some to push the moisture out. Especially if it is going to sit a while (like days +).
This is not just for the exhaust and combustion system, but the crankcase too.

 

X 2 and even if it's below freezing turn on the a/c just to keep thing lubed up.

 

Not necessary on any GM built since at least the late 1960s. The A/C compressor should come on when the defrost setting is used. This serves two purposes. First and most obviously, it keeps the compressor lubed in the winter. Second, by cooling the air first then heating it, the air is dehumidified, which makes the defroster that much more effective.

I know for a fact that the A/C system works this way in Stickman's Custom Cruiser.

 

Really?

Interesting. So if a car is stored you only need to turn on the defroster?
I stand corrected once again. I'll pass it along to my A/C "Guru."
Thanks Joe

 

Joe is so right on this one. I had a vehicle that I raced and took the A/C off to save weight and it never did defrost right again