So my car WILL be driven at 38 degrees in the rain, it WILL be driven at times by an enthusiastic mom...

If I go all in and do the passages, what can be done to minimize any I'll effects? Is there like a dual trumpet air cleaner with the flaps that bring hot air from near the headers? Seems like an open element is just adding to the problem.

The car oddly has a block heater... Eh??

Thinking of just milling the heads and throwing them on, with my proposed cam what would be the performance hit?

Or would this head work also change the cam plan....

Just not tryna wind up pissed I can't tune my way into the 14's.

If you vote that this kind of headwork would be better suited to a more serious build plz speak up, because I HAVE flat tops and plan on working over the off coming heads.

If I'd be hitting 14's well tuned with the stock 4 heads milled .055 plus the 212 single pattern can then I will probably just wait for next time.

 

Lol mom being the new mommy in the house, not MY mother

 

I am looking at this if I swap this 350 into my Olds powered 4x4. The solution for it is running a 454 TBI adapter and hooking up the heater lines built in and a more complete heat shield on the manifold. The 80's Hurst/Olds and 442 307 HO used a dual snorkel air cleaner with a valve. Get two air cleaners, with a saw and welder make your own dual snorkel air cleaner with valves on both sides. Honestly with the right tune, even without a head fill, 14's will be possible. Even if you do hit 14's, you will only keep up to a V6 Challenger, Mustang or Camaro on the street.

 

It's not as big of a deal as you think. Way back in the winter of 2006, I was forced to drive my 78 Cutlass in November for a week to work and back. I had the iron plugs in the heads blocking the crossovers. It was in the 20s and my car didn't have heat.......which meant I had no defroster.

Anyways, this was a low 13 second car with a 350 Olds. I did not have a thermostat in the car either, but had a Moroso electric motor which drove my stock water pump, so I would toggle the switch on and off the whole drive.

I don't recall any major driveability issues. It may not have been optimal, but it was my race car at the time.......and only means for transportation as well. For your car, put a 195* thermostat in it for the winter time, that will heat up the heads which will transfer heat to the manifold......and also generate warmer under hood temps. With a t-stat, you will be fine.

Also, what's up with everyone and their low aspirations? You just wanna hit 14s? I went 14.47 with my first small block in a 3500lb car. It was a stock 72 short block with 7a heads and a XE256 Comp Cam and Performer intake. Compression was almost 8:1. Seriously, shoot for 13s......or 12s if you want to challenge yourself.

 

I have seen too many ppl shoot for 13's and be in the low 15s... I just wanna be faster than most swapped Hondas. If I end up faster then awesome. I'll talk w the head place today, its hardly ever 20 here

 

There are two reasons for blocking the crossover. The first is if you are filling the crossover ports in the head to allow for better flow. The second is to eliminate carb heat for a more dense intake charge.

I will suggest that the latter is worthless for a street-driven car. You'll never even feel the performance difference, especially if you don't take the time to optimize jetting in the carb. Filling the ports in the heads is mandatory if you plan to take advantage of exhaust porting efforts.

Having said that, if you are blocking the crossover, you'll need an electric choke at a minimum. You will have rough running when the car is cold. Once the engine comes up to temp, you really won't feel any difference. The coolant-heated TBI adapter discussed above pretty much defeats the purpose of blocking the crossover, unless you put a valve on the coolant hose to block the flow once the engine warms up.

 

Well it already has electric choke, I may just do it. What do u have to preheat the heads to before you pour the metal? Putting a true edge on it is happenening anyway, but I don't need cracks.

 

I was recently told the crossover is more about correct flow than the heat, heat gets to the manifold in time anyway

 

If I hit 14.47 that's .01 off a h22 swap into an ek. Perfect territory for me : ) but only time will tell.

 

Doesn't the open bypass equalize the pressure difference between the left and right exhaust system (if equipped with separate dual system) and make the engine run smother?

 

Equalizing the two sides (as in using an X-pipe) has more to do with reducing total backpressure. The convoluted path through the intake likely doesn't really do that enough to matter, plus plugging the head ports and improving exhaust port flow far outweighs any "equalizing" benefit.

 

Yeah I guess u either bite it and go all in or you forget about the extra HP.

On that note, do any of u have extra resbond for sale? If I find some in the next 2 weeks I'm doing it, otherwise I'm just gonna forget it myself.

 

When I filled my big block heads I didn't preheat them, melted metal with a torch and pored it right in

 

My 4x4 runs in -40 temps, only reason some sort of TBI heating would be needed. Yes, I would install ball valves for summer running. If I ever get my stroker put together. As said, on a mild 350, probably worth very little. Thanks Joe, reminds me to tell my Qjet builder my heads are filled.

 

And exhaust signal assisting in cylinder evacuation.

likes Joe, thinks he's one smart cookie