Installing the heads and intake today on my rebuilt 350 top end.
I have the 350 Painted,and need to install a few more items.
I plan on omitting the rubber gaskets front and back on the intake and use RTV...anyone have a problem with this?
I need a new thermostat housing,new water pump hardware,and a thermostat...160 degree ok?..Don't need heat..just a Summer Car.
The spark plugs I have laying around are 45s...heads #8.
The previous owner must have run them on an earlier 455.
I'm running a Unilite distributor, and Accell super coil...gap at .060?
I have to hunt down some water pump and power steering pulleys and hardware...but I can start installing the motor today.
Pics forthcoming...Warning X Chevy guy...Chevy Orange Engine Enamel.

The install is going into a 1971 Pontiac lemans.

 

Well not a problem but ask why? Since Gm and manufacturers designed a gasket do we know more than them? The rubber seals even have tabs on them at each end that go into holes in the block. The seal has a channel that holds it un place on the block. I always use the rubber seals with some RTV on top and have never had a problem on an OLds engine. But this is only my opinion and experience so it is your call. And I am referring to a good Felpro gasket kit with "turkey tray" I am sure other cheaper gaskets have short comings...

 

GM also stated that .0006 was an acceptable crank/main bearing clearance..........
I never use the rubber seal, I worked at a performance engine building shop, they never use the end rail seals, just a thick bead of RTV.

Also, not positive, but IIRC, those 45s plugs should be .045, maybe even .035. Just double check.

 

.045" is good for plug gap, .060-.080" isn't needed. Many use RTV on the end rails, don't be cheap or it will leak.Don't buy the chrome replacement thermostat housings. The only aftermarket housing that is decent is the Robmc housing at $100 new. I bought two of those chrome POS, leaked despite sanding, RTV and double gaskets. Robmc is pretty and works, no problems on my 403. A 160 thermostat is fine for summer.

 

Ran out of funds until payday...again.
I was under the impression the smaller gaps were for point type ignition,as the charge was not strong enough to jump a large gap.
Once HEI was used..all gaps increased.
I cleaned up the old thermostat housing.
One small problem...I ordered 455 push rods by mistake...waay too long.
While I wait for replacements...I can start the install into the car.
The only thing about using RTV is the mess...but better a mess that doesn't leak or get worse...right???

 

 

 

Cool! I love seeing Olds engines in different colors. When i get around to my 455 im gonna do either gold or bronze, not sure which yet. Not trying to trick anyone into thinking its a small block just that i feel blue motors are so over done. Olds blue, Buick blue, Pontiac blue, Ford blue, werent later Mopars blue also? Way too much blue, gotta be distinct. Sharp lookin motor

 

Actually I got the engine enamel for a $1 per can...bought 2 cases.
I'm not looking for a show car...just a driver.
If I can save a few bucks here and there...it comes in handy for other projects.

 

One other question...I couldn't remember where the stud type bolts went.
figured they were for mounting power steering and accessories,and go in the front.
Anyone know for sure where they go,and if I have them on the right side?
Thanks.

 

Pretty sure its two studs on the driver side, not sure exactly where, either the front two or the two behind the front one

 

the stud placement will depend on the accessories on the engine... the drivers side looks right for a driver side alternator. the head studs are not a factor for power steering... do you have air?

 

One long stud and one short...maybe they both go on one side???
Had air...it's been disconnected and a block off plate added.
I figured the bolts went up front...should have taken pictures..but I totaled the car and needed it removed from a friends house asap.
He was nice enough to let me bring the wrecked car to his house...but didn't want it to be an eyesore for a long while.

 

You can run a razor blade around the edges of everything and get rid of the excess RTV after it's dry.

 

Thanks for the tip...wonder if magic eraser would work???

 

Or you can just use black RTV instead of the Smurf jizz

 

Even if you use black it still looks bad when you use too much. It takes very little silicone to do the job, I had a friend that rebuilt a 350 back in the 70's and about a week after the rebuild it lost oil pressure when we tore it down we found the pick up screen on the pump completely full of blue silicone dingle berries, my friend obviously thought if a little silicone is good a lot is better.

 

No matter how sparingly you use rtv...it's gonna go somewhere...hopefully not into the engine.
I don't bother with trailer queens or show cars.
I prefer drivers.
the engine does the work...and should look like it.
Ever seen a guy who works for a living with clean hands?
The blue rtv runs about $4 at wally world and does the job...Can't see $2 more for black...marketing BS.