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What did you use to take that metal pipe setup from the exhaust manifold? Also where did you get the bolts to cap it off?
Bossman, if you're gutting the smog and emissions equipment on your CCC Oldsmobile I suggest you remove the EGR manifold/pipe and take it to the hardware store. You should be able to find brass plugs that will fit those threads. Of course, you MAW remove the heads and replace them with older non-smog heads while you're at it.
Bossman, if you're gutting the smog and emissions equipment on your CCC Oldsmobile I suggest you remove the EGR manifold/pipe and take it to the hardware store. You should be able to find brass plugs that will fit those threads. Of course, you MAW remove the heads and replace them with older non-smog heads while you're at it.
This is mine. I don't want the current exhaust manifold lines to break off before I can completely take them off, what tool should I use
is it possible to get you my contact information so I can direct contact just trying to get a clearer vision of what I'm trying to do. This is what mines look like.
Bossman, I fixed your triple post. You already installed an aftermarket carburetor, but did you replace the distributor in your Olds? You can remove the EGR valve and get a block off plate for it. Plus, you need to find out where those large vacuum lines go. If one is attached to the back of your intake manifold it should go to your brake vacuum booster. The other one probably goes to your smog pump.
You can send me a PM by left clicking on my username but any questions you have are probably best posted publicly in case I don't have the answer for you.
BTW, use a brake line wrench to remove the air injection lines from the heads. Spray the fittings with plenty of PB Blaster/WD 40 before attempting to remove them. They will be seized and rusty.
Took the air injection pipe to the lathe shop. He measured the thread and taper of the injection pipe fitting thread and made 8 nuts from metal.
Hmm. If you don't care how it looks, I think it would be cheapest to clip the tubes about an inch or so sticking up, pinch the ends closed with vise grips and roll the end over like a toothpaste tube. I personally think that looks like crap and can be a bit dangerous monkeying around the area to change plugs, etc. But it does work.
If you want it to look neater, and for some small money, you can clip one of the tube ends with the nut right off, then put the nut in a baggie, and take it with you to home depot or similar, pick through their brass pipe plug assortment until you find the exact size you need. Pennies on the dollar instead of having them being custom made. Unless you were getting them done for less than 15 bucks or so. I've also seen people who cut the tubes off flush with the nut then weld up the tube/nut to seal it off , then grind it flush and paint them the color of the engine. Lotta ways to skin this cat.
Wow, This thread is a wealth of information about these heavily emissioned 307s.
The only thing I didn't see an answer for was what vaccum does the rear choke need to see to operate correctly? I'm assuming it's switched or to a temp sensor of some sort.
Sorry if the answer is obvious.
Wow, This thread is a wealth of information about these heavily emissioned 307s.
The only thing I didn't see an answer for was what vaccum does the rear choke need to see to operate correctly? I'm assuming it's switched or to a temp sensor of some sort.
Sorry if the answer is obvious.
Hmm. If you don't care how it looks, I think it would be cheapest to clip the tubes about an inch or so sticking up, pinch the ends closed with vise grips and roll the end over like a toothpaste tube. I personally think that looks like crap and can be a bit dangerous monkeying around the area to change plugs, etc. But it does work.
If you want it to look neater, and for some small money, you can clip one of the tube ends with the nut right off, then put the nut in a baggie, and take it with you to home depot or similar, pick through their brass pipe plug assortment until you find the exact size you need. Pennies on the dollar instead of having them being custom made. Unless you were getting them done for less than 15 bucks or so. I've also seen people who cut the tubes off flush with the nut then weld up the tube/nut to seal it off , then grind it flush and paint them the color of the engine. Lotta ways to skin this cat.
The last set of 5A heads I did, I just tapped the AIR ports with a 1/4" pipe tap and ran a steel pipe plug down them..
Not to hijack the thread but found this to be the most relevant to my query when searching the forums.
I recently purchased a 87 custom cruiser with vin Y 307 V8. It will be exempt from any form of emissions testing and therefore I plan to remove the smog pump, the AIR tubes to exhaust manifold and the cat.
Main reason of the removal is to clear up the engine bay. Getting rid of the catalytic converter to eliminate restrictions on exhaust and also avoiding a meltdown when air pump is removed.
I also plan to use dual exhausts (mainly for aesthetic reasons) and to retain the CCC Qjet setup. I read that CCC needs EGR. I am not looking for big power. Just need the reliability and fuel economy.
Here the temperature never gets colder than 15 degrees Celsius and averages around 32 degrees so according to this, I can eliminate the heat riser valve and RVB also without a problem.
However, I think I'd retain the anti-dieseling solenoid.
Would eliminating the cat can introduce backfires?
I would also like to see an image of such a cleared 307 engine bay.
Thank you
Hi im new to this group, happy to be here. Here's the engine bay of my 88 custom Cruiser 307, absolutely no smog or Electronics except on the distributor and alternator. Runs great, not pretty but it will be.
New thread with pictures on minimal emissions hoses on 307
Guys,
I am starting a completely new (noob friendly) thread with loads of pictures on gutting the emission control lines, modifications to do and keep the minimal ones which need to operate the CCC system, I will post the link below. NOOB's GUIDE to minimum vacuum lines for CCC system
It would also (hopefully) have all the information necessary to setup the CCC system correctly..
All are welcome to chime in your comments and suggestions, thank you
Last edited by kuseetha; Jun 24, 2023 at 12:21 AM.
You can eliminate alot of that junk and still run perfectly fine on the computer. You just need to yank the right crap and retain only the stuff you need. Posting pics would greatly help in showing you what you need and what you don't. Kinda hard to explain it without some visual references though.
Part 1
The ILC solenoid vacuum line goes through the VRV, DVDV, anti-diesel solenoid (ADS) {in turn connected to the Vac tank (VT)} and then to the ILC mounted on the carb.
What exactly is the mechanism of each item? (VRV, DVDV, ADS, VT, ILC) Also, what will happen with the failure of each?
Part 2
If I were to remove this ILC circuit entirely and use an "IDLE KICK UP solenoid" as DoubleV explained here, can I power that idle kickup solenoid from the ECM signal line instead?
That means, when vacuum drops, the ECM would signal 12V to the ILC solenoid to actuate (cut off vacuum -> extends plunger), but now it directly activates the kick up solenoid, which does the same. Kicks up idle.
Vacuum operated ILC extends its plunger when vacuum not present, so when you turn off the car, ECM turns off, no supply to ILC solenoid, so ILC plunger pushes the throttles open.
This necessitates an anti-diesel solenoid and the vac tank.
Should not be the case with an idle kickup solenoid. No power to ECU, doesn't push the throttles open.
"Idle Kickup" Solenoid (CSM refers to it as Idle Speed Solenoid, aka ISS) gets power wihout depending on the ECM. There's connector #202 under the front of the dash in a VIN 9 car when the A/C turns on where the wire originates that splits and goes to 3 places, the accumulator pressure cycling switch, the ECM to know when the A/C is on, and to the solenoid. However, you can tap off the LIGHT GREEN wire on the accumulator pressure cycling switch under the hood if you have to (not the dark green wire). That will get you power to the solenoid when the A/C goes on and you don't have to dig under the dash. Use some wire loom or something to hide/blend it until it gets to the solenoid so it looks natural. It's just an option.
"Idle Kickup" Solenoid (CSM refers to it as Idle Speed Solenoid, aka ISS) gets power wihout depending on the ECM. There's connector #202 under the front of the dash in a VIN 9 car when the A/C turns on where the wire originates that splits and goes to 3 places, the accumulator pressure cycling switch, the ECM to know when the A/C is on, and to the solenoid. However, you can tap off the LIGHT GREEN wire on the accumulator pressure cycling switch under the hood if you have to (not the dark green wire). That will get you power to the solenoid when the A/C goes on and you don't have to dig under the dash. Use some wire loom or something to hide/blend it until it gets to the solenoid so it looks natural. It's just an option.
Thank you so much for the reply. Yes, this is easily doable. If the only situation where the engine is loaded is the AC, then yes, your solution is the most sensible.
But on the FB quadrajet group, it was discussed that the ECM does a good job keeping a smooth operation and any other situations when there's an increase on the engine load (an example given was power steering pump loading).
This is why I thought so use the ECM signal (it knows from various sensors the best situations to bump up the idle) instead.
Thank you so much for the reply. Yes, this is easily doable. If the only situation where the engine is loaded is the AC, then yes, your solution is the most sensible.
But on the FB quadrajet group, it was discussed that the ECM does a good job keeping a smooth operation and any other situations when there's an increase on the engine load (an example given was power steering pump loading).
This is why I thought so use the ECM signal (it knows from various sensors the best situations to bump up the idle) instead.
Then you don't want an ISS on your car. Can't do both. Nobody in their right mind wouldn't, anyway.
Then you don't want an ISS on your car. Can't do both. Nobody in their right mind wouldn't, anyway.
Actually, both my VRV and DVDV doesn't work. Anti diesel solenoid (ADS) partially works. This is why I needed to dive deep into this mechanism.
I went through the CSM once again and this gentleman on FB explained the function of the ILC really well, and it isn't as simple as an idle kick up solenoid.
It's quite interesting and I am sharing that information to whoever finds this helpful.
An idle kickup solenoid just bumps up idle when supplied 12V. Could be easily wired up to AC compressor relay. Job done.
ILC gets no vacuum when engine is off. The plunger is fully extended by an internal spring. This keeps throttle plates pushed slightly. (to an idle up position)
When engine is started, ILC gets vacuum. Therefore, the vacuum pulls the plunger against the internal spring, and it is retracted, barely touching the throttle plates.
When engine has various levels of vacuum, the force on the ILC damper by the vacuum also varies. So, the equilibrium of forces (spring vs vacuum) modulates on varying engine loads. This modulates idle RPM ever so slightly for various load conditions. (actually, it's pretty clever)
When ECM power the ILC solenoid, it cuts off vacuum completely to the ILC, so the plunger is fully extended.
When you turn off the car, ECM has no power, ILC solenoid has no power so in turn, the ILC extends fully, so throttles open, and dieseling can occur.
Anti diesel solenoid is 12V when key is ON (it's not ECM controlled).
When car is turned off, it supplies vacuum to the ILC from the tank reservoir to keep the plunger from extending. (stops dieseling) - see point number 5
Since this is the case, I do have few of these vacuum switching valves lying around and maybe I can use one instead of the ADS. Still no clue how the VRV and DVDV (or the lack of those) should affect the drivability.
