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On my 85 Custom Cruiser, there are vacuum lines and plastic valves, and splitters and ports all over the place, and naturally, dry rot and pressure has taken it's toll over the years. To follow so many lines and map them to their many different components would be a serious undertaking. In my rebuilt 350 in a Vista Cruiser, the minimal number of vacuum lines are direct and functional and I know exactly what they control, where they go and where to look if I suspect a leak.
My question is if I gut all these vacuum lines, splitters and little plastic valves that hook up between the lines on the 307, will the engine run ok/better?
As of now, I replaced the EGR valve suspecting a vacuum leak and in doing so broke a little splitter connection somewhere along with the nipple on a round valve thingy and have developed more vacuum leaks along with a rough idle, and have been having a hell of a time finding them. I haven't even tried to locate these little parts like round plastic valves at an auto parts store because I have no clue what to call them and I wouldn't want to dish out more than a couple clams for a stupid little plastic part that may not really do anything regarding the condition of the rest of the "emissions control systems". I want to know if I can just eliminate all that.
A couple of friends that build engines say that the emissions control components of these mid 80's cars were nothing more than a sham anyway, and I should just eliminate ALL of it. I just wanted to get you guys' opinions first on how that might affect running conditions.
Your 85 carburetor and distributor are computer controlled. If you plug everything up, your air fuel mixture will be all out of whack most likely.
You can put in a regular distributor and carburetor from a 1975-1979 350 model, and adjust the tuning manually instead of letting the computer do the thinking. Obviously the 350 carburetor will be rich on the primary side and need recalibrating for the smaller 307 for optimal mileage, but you can do a simple rod swap on the secondary side with your 307 DD rods.
You can eliminate alot of that junk and still run perfectly fine on the computer. You just need to yank the right crap and retain only the stuff you need. Posting pics would greatly help in showing you what you need and what you don't. Kinda hard to explain it without some visual references though.
I found this vacuum diagram online and it is exactly the set up in my 307. I know because I studied it pretty hard yesterday.
A couple things:
I'm not getting any vacuum to the egr valve. This could possibly be because that box looking thing, the egr vacuum solenoid assembly may or may not be fault. I AM getting vacuum to the rear choke pull-off (which comes from the solenoid), but nothing at all going to the egr valve. I'd like to eliminate this solenoid assembly seeing as how a new one costs about $70 and supply vacuum from elsewhere.
All these little round valves (EAS, EAC, VDV) do what, exactly? Lol. It is on these round valves that I have accidentally broken and don't really know how to ask for a replacement, nor do I want to shell out the dough.
If I rip out those components and just supply vacuum to the big stuff like the egr valve, anti-deisel solenoid, cannister, stuff like that, will it really effect the computer that much?
Last edited by Arrowstorm; May 23rd, 2014 at 12:52 PM.
Here is a copy/paste of a post I made on another forum a while back;
Generally, this is what you need to retain to keep the CCC system intact. I'm refering to the stuff under the hood and on a Cutlass with 307;
1) The DPS/MAP sensor. This is the small rectangular box bolted to the passenger side inner fender well. The hard plastic line coming off this needs to be plugged into a manifold vacuum source ( any will do ).
2) The temperature sensor on the front drivers side on the intake manifold.
3) The EGR valve. Technically you don't NEED it, but the computer is calibrated for use with EGR, so keep it on or you'll get part throttle pinging.
4) The EGR/RVB/ILC solenoid. This is the black box located on the rear drivers side valve cover. This controls the EGR ( and the Rear Vacuum Break and the Idle Load Compensator ). You can ditch all the vac lines going to this black box except the 2 for the EGR valve.
5) Of course you need the 2 plugs that go to the carb ( MC solenoid and TPS ).
6) You need the 4 prong plug that goes to the distributor. This is what controls the timing advance.
7) O2 sensor in passenger side exhaust manifold.
Everything else can be eliminated. This includes;
1) The A.I.R. system. This clears things up considerably.
2) The RVB ( the vacuum diaphragm on the passenger side rear of the carb ) and all associated vacuum lines.
3) The ILC ( the goofy vacuum diaphragm on the front drivers side of carb ) and ALL the stupid little gizmos plugged to/from it. This includes the one with the wires going to it too ( the anti-dieseling solenoid ).
4) The entire vapor cannister system which includes the TVS on the passenger side front of the intake and the black round plastic thing with a million vac lines going in and out of it. This has nothing to do with the CCC system, but it cleans things up under the hood.
I can't think of anymore. That may be it. If I think of anymore stuff, I'll edit this post and include it here.
About the ILC ( idle load compensator ); On the VIN 9 engines, they didn't use this along with the other gizmos. They instead used a simple Idle Speed Solenoid. It had just one wire going to it. All it did was kick up the idle a bit when the AC compressor kicked on. That's it. The VIN Y's with the ILC did the same thing ( plus some other worthless crap I won't get into ). If you're running AC, convert to the VIN 9 ISS. You might even get away without using anything at all.
P.S. The EFE ( early fuel evaporation valve ...aka heat riser valve ) located on the drivers side exhaust manifold isn't needed either, but it's not part of the CCC system. It has a metal line coming from it that plugs into a TVS on the drivers side rear corner of the intake. From the TVS, a vac line ( rubber ) is 'T'ed into some of the other vac lines....which should now all be eliminated ( because you already removed them! ), so now you can just run that single vac line to any manifold vacuum source, like the rear of the carb. You can eliminate the whole EFE thing too if you want. It doesn't do much anyway...
If you need any more info just ask.
BTW the reason why your EGR may seem like it's not getting vacuum is because maybe the solenoid isn't being commanded by the ECM to allow vacuum through at the time you're testing it. It may very well be working while you're driving. If the black box was truely bad, you can just nab one from a boneyard for the price of dirt or almost anyone parting out a G-body could get you this.
Not to hijack the thread but found this to be the most relevant to my query when searching the forums.
I recently purchased a 87 custom cruiser with vin Y 307 V8. It will be exempt from any form of emissions testing and therefore I plan to remove the smog pump, the AIR tubes to exhaust manifold and the cat.
Main reason of the removal is to clear up the engine bay. Getting rid of the catalytic converter to eliminate restrictions on exhaust and also avoiding a meltdown when air pump is removed.
I also plan to use dual exhausts (mainly for aesthetic reasons) and to retain the CCC Qjet setup. I read that CCC needs EGR. I am not looking for big power. Just need the reliability and fuel economy.
Here the temperature never gets colder than 15 degrees Celsius and averages around 32 degrees so according to this, I can eliminate the heat riser valve and RVB also without a problem.
However, I think I'd retain the anti-dieseling solenoid.
Would eliminating the cat can introduce backfires?
I would also like to see an image of such a cleared 307 engine bay.
Thank you
Last edited by kuseetha; October 13th, 2016 at 03:37 AM.
I have exactly that on my Custom Cruiser. True dual exhaust with no cat converter. I've never had any problems with backfiring or anything like that, but I am almost certain that the sensors that are "supposed" to be plugged into the converter and are not there anymore are probably messing around a little with with the CCC.
Right now, I have the intake off and have to pull the heads and honestly, I'm thinking REAL hard about just getting rid of all of that crap and going with a mechanical carb and distributor. I'm dreading having to replace all those miles of vacuum lines.
If you have a CCC carburetor you can't just hack off the catalytic converter and remove all of the smog equipment and lines. If you do that you need to replace the carburetor and distributor.
FWIW, I had a 1990 Buick Estate Wagon with an Olds 307. It had a CCC carburetor and miles of smog lines. It ran decent until the rings got so worn that there was too much blow-by going through the EGR valve. Of course, I could notice the stumble at mid throttle and it bothered me, most other drivers wouldn't have cared much less noticed it.
And yet, you did (as well as dig it up after being dead for two years)...
OK, seriously.
The CCC system is pretty rudimentary. There are no "sensors" on the catalyst. You can remove it with no ill effects, however if it is in good shape, it is no more of a restriction than the rest of the exhaust system. Modern honeycomb cats don't pose a meaningful restriction on cars with full exhaust.
The A.I.R. system is also rudimentary. As you have correctly noted, removing it can sometimes lead to overheating the cat and meltdown, as the A.I.R. blows fresh air into the cat once in closed loop mode to keep it cool. The only performance benefit from removing it is the half a HP or so that it takes to turn the pump. Of course, removing it does make engine maintenance much easier. Note the the ports in the heads are NOT pipe thread. Those are inverted flare fittings, just like brake lines. You can force a brass pipe plug into the hole and deform it enough to seal sometimes. Dorman sells the correct steel inverted flare plugs to do this right.
If you are keeping the CCC carb and distributor, you must also retain the O2 sensor, the TPS, and the EGR. The stock advance curve programmed into the ECU assumes the lean mixture that EGR provides when in use and advances timing accordingly. Disabling EGR without changing the timing curve can cause pinging at part throttle conditions. Note that removing the cat and installing dual exhausts can do the same thing. If working properly, the EGR valve is only open during part throttle cruise conditions and thus has zero effect on power.
The evaporative system is another favorite to be ripped out. Doing so will provide zero performance gain. There's no reason to remove it.
Same thing with EFE. If the valve is working, it doesn't impact performance at all. Note that the 307 driver side exhaust manifold has a flat flange that the EFE valve mates to with a gasket. The EFE valve housing has the flare fitting that the exhaust pipe mates to. If you remove the EFE valve, you need to change the driver side manifold to an older one that has the flare fitting for the pipe.
Considering the O2 is in the manifold, dual exhaust will help the car and run fine. Just run 2" or 2.25" pipe max with maybe a H pipe and full tail pipes. Follow Joe's recommendations and all will go well.
I had an 86 chevy monte carlo, and I thought I could do this. I ran a vacuum line straight from a vacuum source, directly to the heat riser, bypassing the temp switch. I thought it would be open all the time whenever the engine was running. I learned the hard way that the opposite is true. It fails open, and vacuum holds it closed. I wound up cooking the exhaust manifold, which was so brittle that it broke into little pieces after removal. Make sure you know if the heat riser is open or closed with vacuum before bypassing the temp switch.
If you are keeping the CCC carb and distributor, you must also retain the O2 sensor, the TPS, and the EGR. The stock advance curve programmed into the ECU assumes the lean mixture that EGR provides when in use and advances timing accordingly. Disabling EGR without changing the timing curve can cause pinging at part throttle conditions.
This I do understand and I am planning to retain EGR, O2 sensor and TPS. I in fact bought the chassis manual, so I will make sure all the sensors of the CCC system will stay in proper form.
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Note that removing the cat and installing dual exhausts can do the same thing.
I now understood your point (which is very valid) and I have two options.
Option 1: Get the two exhaust pipes start after the O2 sensor. This is only a cosmetic treatment
Option 2: Use two O2 sensors (one for each bank) and combine their output wires and feed to the CCC system terminal. My theory is that, with dual exhausts, each bank provides half of the total exhaust thus half of the oxygen content. This means each sensor produces half the voltage the original O2 sensor should actually produce. Therefore, dual sensors theoretically should bring up the voltage to what it was previously with a single sensor.
Also, the dual sensors should be connected much closer to the engine since only half the exhaust is available to heat it.
This is not something I have seen or done, so I need expert opinions
Last edited by kuseetha; October 14th, 2016 at 12:16 AM.
Location: I moved to pittsburgh so I can be near Primantis
Posts: 405
Originally Posted by Arrowstorm
I have exactly that on my Custom Cruiser. True dual exhaust with no cat converter. I've never had any problems with backfiring or anything like that, but I am almost certain that the sensors that are "supposed" to be plugged into the converter and are not there anymore are probably messing around a little with with the CCC.
Right now, I have the intake off and have to pull the heads and honestly, I'm thinking REAL hard about just getting rid of all of that crap and going with a mechanical carb and distributor. I'm dreading having to replace all those miles of vacuum lines.
I would hate to be a bearer of bad news, but this would create more problems than it solves, not only running poorly.
First off, yourcar will still run with the ECM removed. Poorly. IF you disable enough of the sensors related to feedback, you will be penalized.
One of the least understood facets of the of the 'C3' system is the spark advance system. This system can advance timing far in excess of of conventional wisdom if the situation presents itself. I have personally seen 50*+, I have heard of 60.
Consider if you will that the O2S reading governs 2 things directly on the carbed C3 system.
1) AIR - the purpose of the pump is to boost the effect of the Pt catalyst on unburnt CHx radicals. As you know from HS chem class, these will spontaneously combust in the presence of Pt and O2. IF the O2 reading is too low, more air is injected. If you have a scan tool, depending on how good or wordy it is, there are DIV and CONV or diverted and converted. At startup, it should pump full blast to counter the effects of the rich exhaust. On a carb C3 system, ECT, ACT (if equipped) and run time are used to gauge this. Once started it really blows air based on TPS readings and goes fully diverted on coast down.
2) MCS - these have a narrow throttle range of operating and replace the well intentioned, but faulty implementation of the old qjet 'APT' system.
The MCS and AIR system do not report status back to the ECM, so if they were to go missing the ECM would gleefully turn on or off the controlling solenoids or think it does. IF the O2S output goes blank it sets code 44 and uses a subroutine to turn the AIR solenoid(s) on or off depending on strict TPS readings and ECT (I think once in closed loop, ACT is disregarded when 44 is set)
adding dual exhaust with one O2S can lead to a low O2S reading, so you typically find a 'balance tube' in the exhaust where the O2S is mounted.
BUT, is that all? when code 44 is set timing advance is also affected, with the absence of anything else by at least 10*. If you are not not equipped with KS (knock sensor) then more, if you do have KS you wont lose as much advance (and WOT advance - hence power is affect too) but in both cases, TCS (torque converter solenoid) is also affected by delaying apply, earlier release. So the net effect will be, not can be, will be less HP, less mileage.
Then lets consider NOx emissions, the EGR system dilutes the incoming charge to lower cylinder head temps. On the C3 Carb system, it is inoperative at WOT, but otherwise it is assumed to be working with no feedback at normal operation. The 307 engine is detonation resistant but it is not detonation proof, the loss of EGR can trigger KS (if equipped) and further lower spark advance, which perversely actually raises cylinder head temps. And again, this can delay or even negate TSC application.
Other things life EFE and Thermact seem cluttery, but consider this, on the carb, the cold start is rude and crude, raw fuel washes the lube from your cylinder walls. Aiding the rush to operating temps lowers the amount of time your piston rings scrape much dryer walls. The 307 is famous for wiping the bores clean by itself, dont help it.
As for the ILC, it seems convoluted, it looks crude, but oddly, it actually works. GM messed with an IACM system similar to that found on the TBI motors, but externally mounted, and in the end bailed. I submit the delay time of the ILC is slower so who knows.
If the sight of the hoses is disturbing, you can get stainless brake and fuel line and bend it in nice shapes to run the vacuum lines neatly along a valve cover seam or something.
And even if you decide to goto a M4 carb and an old HEI (you STILL have to retrofit an older style EGR system), the ECM may decide to not apply TSC making you add a mechanical triggering system like that sold by B&M
if you really wanted to be different, the 305 H code TBI system can be adapted to a 307. because of the dished piston, the critical 0-90* ATDC phase presents a chamber volume similar to the longer stroke of the G block 305. You need to get the distributor stuff mounted but that is really the only insurmountable challenge after you adapt the TBI to the 4bbl intake.
A good upgrade is to add the 3 wire heated O2 sensor. One terminal is the sensor lead, another 12 volts key on and the other ground I believe. Helps bring the motor into closed loop faster, a good thing. My Olds powered 4x4 ran fine with shorty headers and dual exhaust in closed loop, even with chebby sensors and programming. Open loop not as nice, chebby tuning and less sensor input and the super lazy sbc timing curve. It had the heated O2 factory on the 94 TBI. Why anyone wants to run that horrid crossover exhaust is beyond me. One O2 is enough, just upgrade to the heated sensor.
Location: I moved to pittsburgh so I can be near Primantis
Posts: 405
Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
A g Why anyone wants to run that horrid crossover exhaust is beyond me.
Cuz sir, with the firing order of a 1-8-4 GM or 1-5-4 Ford motor, a true balance tube actually helps with scavenging if within 2 feet-ish of the manifolds. It was worth 5-10 on a stock EECIV mustang GT.
Yes, it does. But a 2" pipe going into a 2.25" shared pipe is a restriction, plain and simple. I run an X pipe on my 88 Cutlass, all 2.5" pipe. Dual exhaust was worth 15-20 HP and 10-15 ft/lbs torque on most cars, a lot on a 160-165 HP/265 ft/lbs 350 V8, turns into 180 hp/275 ft/lbs. If I had that awful exhaust on the 260 in my 70 instead nice 2.25"? factory exhaust it would be 0-60 in about a hundred years instead of a little more than 10 seconds. I may add an H pipe when I do the 2004R swap this winter, as it does add low end torque.
A good upgrade is to add the 3 wire heated O2 sensor. One terminal is the sensor lead, another 12 volts key on and the other ground I believe. Helps bring the motor into closed loop faster, a good thing. My Olds powered 4x4 ran fine with shorty headers and dual exhaust in closed loop, even with chebby sensors and programming. Open loop not as nice, chebby tuning and less sensor input and the super lazy sbc timing curve. It had the heated O2 factory on the 94 TBI. Why anyone wants to run that horrid crossover exhaust is beyond me. One O2 is enough, just upgrade to the heated sensor.
That is a great idea!
Could you kindly share the part number of the "heated" O2 sensor that is compatible the Olds 307? I tried searching for oxygen sensor technical specification sheet but I could not find one.
With a heated oxygen sensor, I can easily get an X connection on duals after clearing the auto transmission oil pan and set the oxygen sensor there without worrying about it's temperature
Apparently this is how the 307 looks like after all the emissions tubes are removed. I did this to clean the engine and will be putting only the necessary lines back in place. (with new rubber of course)
It started and idled without any hiccups for few minutes. (Did not ran long because I had the radiator removed)
Found that mine already has the cat removed and the air tube going towards it blew air only to atmosphere lol
I video recorded all the vacuum line connections prior to removal. (each clip for each line) Can upload all those to Youtube if it helps anyone out there.
Since I have gone through all of them, all of sudden it doesn't look too complicated However, I would definitely be re-arranging them in a neater way. I assume increasing the length of tubes would not make any difference.
So my plan is to go for dual exhausts and mount the O2 sensor on the H-pipe.
AIR system is of no use since the cat is already gone and mine is emissions exempt. So the pump is already out and the lines will follow soon. Plugs will be installed to cover the holes.
Carby will be kept as it is with the TPS and MCS in place.
I would keep the EGR system.
Next thing I found out are these holes under the carby clogged up. If I scrape these deposits, how can I take them out?
That is a great idea!
Could you kindly share the part number of the "heated" O2 sensor that is compatible the Olds 307? I tried searching for oxygen sensor technical specification sheet but I could not find one.
With a heated oxygen sensor, I can easily get an X connection on duals after clearing the auto transmission oil pan and set the oxygen sensor there without worrying about it's temperature
I used this sensor, as said it needs switched 12 volts and a ground.
I was cleaning, checking and repairing the wiring harness and guess what I came across.
Wires that come from the ECM to the air pump valve and air switching valve both are fried!!
Air pump connection
Air switch valve connection
I was planning to get rid of the AIR system (my cat is absent) so now I just can pull these wires off from the ECM connector itself.
However, I am a bit worried to find an ECM controlled solenoid wire fried like that because usually a wire gets fried when the current exceeds what the wire can take. Burnt solenoid is not a problem but I hope my ECM is alright
Not to hijack the thread but found this to be the most relevant to my query when searching the forums.
I recently purchased a 87 custom cruiser with vin Y 307 V8. It will be exempt from any form of emissions testing and therefore I plan to remove the smog pump, the AIR tubes to exhaust manifold and the cat.
Main reason of the removal is to clear up the engine bay. Getting rid of the catalytic converter to eliminate restrictions on exhaust and also avoiding a meltdown when air pump is removed.
I also plan to use dual exhausts (mainly for aesthetic reasons) and to retain the CCC Qjet setup. I read that CCC needs EGR. I am not looking for big power. Just need the reliability and fuel economy.
Here the temperature never gets colder than 15 degrees Celsius and averages around 32 degrees so according to this, I can eliminate the heat riser valve and RVB also without a problem.
However, I think I'd retain the anti-dieseling solenoid.
Would eliminating the cat can introduce backfires?
I would also like to see an image of such a cleared 307 engine bay.
Thank you
Same problem with my delta. So what did u cut out and what did u keep?
DWI, Kuseetha hasn't been active for a few months. What problem is your Delta having? As I mentioned earlier in the thread and others said, removing smog equipment isn't as easy as hacking off the catalytic converter and removing the smog pump.
One of the first things I did when I bought this car was to cut out the catalytic converter, but I'm afraid that may have created problems with the CCC, even tho it never backfired or anything like that.
It's been years since I've driven my Custom Cruiser, because I discovered an intake manifold leak and yanked all that stuff off HOPING I'd be able to put it all back. But, low and behold, I pulled the valve covers and discovered a broken head bolt and didn't want to pull the heads without getting them cleaned and maybe even serviced. Hey! At least I discovered the likely culprit of that coolant loss I've had since 2003!
I'm not putting ANY of those vacuum lines back on the 307 when I put it back together. I've got an aftermarket carb, an aluminum intake, head gasket set, new head bolts and now all I need is a mechanical distributor and ignition coil and I'm going to run it like that. There's NO WAY I can remember where all those lines went, and it would be extremely difficult to so much as find all those vacuum canisters and valves, much less pay for them. I know the CCC 307 was a really good option for fuel economy back it's day, but those days are gone and irrelevant for a 34 year old car that is not a primary vehicle and who's engine components are becoming more and more obsolete and less understood. =/
And to be honest, if the 307 runs badly or like crap when I put it back together with all mechanical fuel delivery and ignition, I'll probably just yank it and drop an older 350 in there or something.
What heads do you have? I ask because the 7a heads have half the port size of the 5A heads put on other 307s. They do interchange with the engine BUT you had mentioned an aluminum intake manifold. Just wanna make sure you don't run into another hurdle while you're actually working on it.
Yes, dropping an older 350 would solve a lot of issues if it's a running engine. Otherwise, I'd just fix the head issue and drive on. Maybe stick some headers on it.....ha.
If you put an older Quadrajet and mechanical points distributor on your 307 you will be happy with the performance. Of course, you might come down with a case of the MAWs.
Thanks for pointing that out about the heads. I'll have to check. I got the edelbrock intake for the Olds 307. It's the same as I run on my Olds 350 in the Vista Cruiser, except it has a port for the EGR. I'll probably be tackling this project real soon, just as soon as I can get my primary vehicle driving top notch. Lol. That car is 17 this year.
DWI, Kuseetha hasn't been active for a few months. What problem is your Delta having? As I mentioned earlier in the thread and others said, removing smog equipment isn't as easy as hacking off the catalytic converter and removing the smog pump.
Hi Jesse and Dwi,
I was busy last couple of months and the car is still away at the body shop getting few things done and the paint job.
My case is an engine swap, I am putting a 307 in another car. I found the 307 from a custom cruiser. It had the catalytic converter already removed and air pump blowing air just to the atmosphere. So I removed the air pump and the metal lines that blew air to the exhaust manifolds, and plugged those holes with studs made at a lathe shop.
I intend to keep the ECU and the CCC Q-Jet because I like it's idea of function (not 100% tested whether it fully works or not). But lockup of transmission is neat with the ECM system.
I have gutted the heat riser valve but not removed it because it helps to connect the exhaust pipe. I will go for dual exhaust but O2 sensor will remain where it is. I will retain EGR as well so I installed a new EGR valve. I have put a 180 degree thermostat, new 3 row aluminium radiator with dual electric fans will be installed (because mechanical fan is too large to be put on the car) and separate ATF cooler with a thermostat activated fan.
Like I said earlier, I have removed all the vacuum lines and put those removal videos on Youtube. However, the sticker on the fan housing says things otherwise on some connections. Anyway, I will be using the chassis manual and install fresh vac hoses when doing it up. And interestingly, these lines all of a sudden became too simple.
I have installed a repair kit for the Qjet but the metering solenoid adjusting nut was flattened at the end and hammered down to the carby body by some moron. Took some damage removing it, but managed to tap the housing carefully and install a nut to adjust the amplitude of the solenoid.
I have bought a dwell meter to set the TPS as per the chassis manual but they all have to wait till we move to our new house. I will keep updates posted.
Last edited by kuseetha; July 2nd, 2019 at 04:06 AM.
Thanks for the update. If you're going to install a dual electric fan I suggest sourcing one from a 94-98 Ford Windstar with a 3.8l v6. OE electric fans will work better than any aftermarket one you can get from Summit or Jegs. Plus, they're cheaper if you find them in a salvage yard.
Thanks for the update. If you're going to install a dual electric fan I suggest sourcing one from a 94-98 Ford Windstar with a 3.8l v6. OE electric fans will work better than any aftermarket one you can get from Summit or Jegs. Plus, they're cheaper if you find them in a salvage yard.
Hi Jesse,
Actually I am from Sri Lanka and V8s are so rare here. The only one I came across was the 307 so that was the main reason behind this swap. I got a good price with the radiator and it came with full shroud and two large electric fans. Since ATF will be cooled separately, shouldn't have a big problem keeping the engine heat down.
You know, one time I had a tough time cooling down one Alfa Romeo I have. It had two separate AC condensers on either side, but a PO has removed those and put a single AC condenser in front of the radiator with two cooling fans in front of the AC condenser to push air towards it.
The factory radiator fan was unable to suck in air starting from front mounted fans, AC condenser and then finally the radiator. I managed to fit in 4.5 inch diameter cheapo Chinese made cooling fan parallel to factory radiator fan but since it is small, I positioned it towards the top end of the radiator. The top end of the radiator was the only area that wasn't covered by the AC condenser. Though it was a small fan, it did the trick and stayed without overheating even in 97 degrees, Since then until now, I have some faith in them. They kind of work.
May 21st, 2014, 08:21 AM
lol
