GRRR...ARRGGHH Engine not starting issues
#1
GRRR...ARRGGHH Engine not starting issues
title says it all, banging my head against the wall here.
1971 350, Edelbrock performer 4 bbl intake (replaced 2bbl), edelbrock Thunder AVS 650CFM carb, double roller tru roller timing chain, water pump, fuel pump, valve train kit, HEI distributor, taylor wires, new starter and inline fuel filter.
So the issue is that I am getting no joy in starting the engine without injecting carb cleaner into the Carb. Once I do that it starts right up but there is little to no fuel in the inline filter until the engine is running.
I didn't do the work but had a local shop install all the parts (not all at once).
So I was told to install a booster in the fuel line to push the fuel and then it will also have the ability to switch the fuel off if desired as theft prevention.
The weather doesn't seem to be a factor, although someone told me that it might be. The car has always (since I had it) had a slight problem in starting but I attributed it to old parts, systems. Now that the ignition, valve and fuel systems in the engine area have been replaced it has a worse problem than when I started this project. It's my daily driver as well. So its more of an issue when it doesn't run well. Once its running it fine, but I am afraid of turning it off for fear it won't start again.
Ideas/ Opinions? Thoughts?
thanks!
1971 350, Edelbrock performer 4 bbl intake (replaced 2bbl), edelbrock Thunder AVS 650CFM carb, double roller tru roller timing chain, water pump, fuel pump, valve train kit, HEI distributor, taylor wires, new starter and inline fuel filter.
So the issue is that I am getting no joy in starting the engine without injecting carb cleaner into the Carb. Once I do that it starts right up but there is little to no fuel in the inline filter until the engine is running.
I didn't do the work but had a local shop install all the parts (not all at once).
So I was told to install a booster in the fuel line to push the fuel and then it will also have the ability to switch the fuel off if desired as theft prevention.
The weather doesn't seem to be a factor, although someone told me that it might be. The car has always (since I had it) had a slight problem in starting but I attributed it to old parts, systems. Now that the ignition, valve and fuel systems in the engine area have been replaced it has a worse problem than when I started this project. It's my daily driver as well. So its more of an issue when it doesn't run well. Once its running it fine, but I am afraid of turning it off for fear it won't start again.
Ideas/ Opinions? Thoughts?
thanks!
#2
I don't know anything about Edel carbs but it sounds like a choke issue. Is it electric or manifold heated? Is it closed when the engine is cold? Does it open all the way after warm?
My '71 also has a bunch of short fuel line-type hoses just in front of the gas tank (under the car). They connect hard lines that are vents, fuel delivery, etc. I read here some time ago that someone had a hole in a return hose and had a similar problem. I'd have a good look at those after checking the choke operation.
Good luck.
My '71 also has a bunch of short fuel line-type hoses just in front of the gas tank (under the car). They connect hard lines that are vents, fuel delivery, etc. I read here some time ago that someone had a hole in a return hose and had a similar problem. I'd have a good look at those after checking the choke operation.
Good luck.
#3
I wouldn't be concerned about the fuel level you see at your inline filter after the car sits for a bit. Once you start cranking the car over it will fill up instantly unless your fuel pump is shot. As Mac mentioned it sounds like a choke issue.
#6
Mac certainly has a good thought regarding the fuel lines.
Have you checked when first starting to see whether the fuel pump is pumping fuel into your carburetor when you crank the engine?
Have you checked to see whether there is fuel in your float bowl before you try to start the engine?
If you have fuel in your float bowl, and if you are getting good flow out of the fuel line as soon as you crank, then you can cross those off, and look, as the others have said, at your choke.
Are you depressing the gas pedal once to set the choke before you crank it?
Have you tried pumping it before you crank it?
- Eric
Have you checked when first starting to see whether the fuel pump is pumping fuel into your carburetor when you crank the engine?
Have you checked to see whether there is fuel in your float bowl before you try to start the engine?
If you have fuel in your float bowl, and if you are getting good flow out of the fuel line as soon as you crank, then you can cross those off, and look, as the others have said, at your choke.
Are you depressing the gas pedal once to set the choke before you crank it?
Have you tried pumping it before you crank it?
- Eric
#7
I think Eric is onto something. People who aren't used to driving a car with a carb don't remember to pump the throttle once (EFI does that automatically).
If you are sure you are starting properly, the next question is, did this start all at once, after the carb was put on, or after some other mod?
Also, be aware that the carb has fuel in the float bowl. It does not require fuel to be flowing from the pump to start (unlike an EFI). You should not need a boost pump for normal use - HOWEVER...
Fuel does evaporate from the carb if the car sits for a while. The E-brock carb on my 62 will go about two-three weeks before too much gas evaporates to start the car. In those cases, I use a solvent wash bottle bottle full of gasoline to fill the float bowls through the vents, at which point the car starts immediately. If you are having a problem overnight, however, this is not the issue.
These particular bottles are made to hold acetone, so gasoline is no problem.
If you are sure you are starting properly, the next question is, did this start all at once, after the carb was put on, or after some other mod?
Also, be aware that the carb has fuel in the float bowl. It does not require fuel to be flowing from the pump to start (unlike an EFI). You should not need a boost pump for normal use - HOWEVER...
Fuel does evaporate from the carb if the car sits for a while. The E-brock carb on my 62 will go about two-three weeks before too much gas evaporates to start the car. In those cases, I use a solvent wash bottle bottle full of gasoline to fill the float bowls through the vents, at which point the car starts immediately. If you are having a problem overnight, however, this is not the issue.
These particular bottles are made to hold acetone, so gasoline is no problem.
#9
The bigger advantage of using a solvent bottle is that you can actually squirt the gas into the float bowl instead of washing all the oil off the cylinder walls when you dump a cup down the carb.
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#12
[QUOTE=MDchanic;800014]Mac certainly has a good thought regarding the fuel lines.
Have you checked when first starting to see whether the fuel pump is pumping fuel into your carburetor when you crank the engine?
Have you checked to see whether there is fuel in your float bowl before you try to start the engine?
If you have fuel in your float bowl, and if you are getting good flow out of the fuel line as soon as you crank, then you can cross those off, and look, as the others have said, at your choke.
Are you depressing the gas pedal once to set the choke before you crank it?
Have you tried pumping it before you crank it?
- Eric[/QUOTE
Time to check the choke then.
Have you checked when first starting to see whether the fuel pump is pumping fuel into your carburetor when you crank the engine?
Have you checked to see whether there is fuel in your float bowl before you try to start the engine?
If you have fuel in your float bowl, and if you are getting good flow out of the fuel line as soon as you crank, then you can cross those off, and look, as the others have said, at your choke.
Are you depressing the gas pedal once to set the choke before you crank it?
Have you tried pumping it before you crank it?
- Eric[/QUOTE
Time to check the choke then.
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