Okay so I im sure you guys are done hearing about this retarded issue im having.. I appreciate all the responses ans sugestions from everyone thank you!

Anyways, before i go ahead and get into the down and dirty of a rebuild on a motor that was rebuilt 7 years ago i wanted to rule everything out because despite some of your comments i still refuse to believe this things not getting oil even tho the oil gauge is very low sometimes 0 psi. It has been running like this for to long to truly be at that low of pressure, im sure some of you are asking yourselves what the hell is this kid talking about but bare with me on this..

If the motor was truly at this low of pressure how in the hell is it still running?!

When i first got the car it had dakota digital gauges which im now convinced are a JOKE everyone ive talked to with them says they really arnt that accurate AT ALL! As it sits right now it has a mechanical oil gauge hooked up which i just put in today, when i started the car (cold) the psi was somewhere around 45 drove it for about 10 miles and it dropped back down to where the needle almost rested on the perch. But it dose respond and jump around when you play with the gas.

I understand that the hotter the oil gets the thiner it gets, I also understand about bearing clearances which has not been ruled out as a suspect but wouldnt i be hearing sounds? im changing the oil to 15W40 tm i will be cutting the old filter in half to see whats in there. I pulled the valve covers and everything looked good(covered in oil as it should be) real clean under there no sludge or nasty stuff. For me seeing this made me feel a little bit better, atleast i didnt see dry un-lubed metal. I was reading on here earlier about a pretty large number of people running into this issue with these motors, the location of the oil pick up in on the front of the block down between the manifold and timing belt (sorry im learning here) So ive heard some guys tapp into the oil filter housing to get a better, more accurate reading.

This is a possibility, ofcorse i could do that and get the same reading which would put me back at square one. So im going to look into that before i start to go insane here. I know this motor is 100% it runs to strong and has been for a while, i havent had the car long but my friend had it for a while before me so i know somewhat the history of the car.

Anyways guys any final comments or laughter you would like to send my way wanted

thanks

 

Yes.

You've got two gauges showing zero oil pressure at idle and a lower than expected pressure at higher RPMs when warm.

There are four possible reasons for this:

1. Wrong type of oil (someone put in 0W20 or mixed kerosene into the oil)
2. Very weak relief valve spring
3. Worn oil pump
4. Worn bearings

The last two are really the same thing, as these parts don't wear in isolation, and if one is bad, the other will be.

It is entirely possible for the engine to be running well with those kinds of problems, because very little oil pressure is needed at idle with no load on the engine, BUT the more you get on it, the more likely it is that there will be damage, and at some point, there will be catastrophic damage, like a spun bearing, which will require complete disassembly and rebuilding of the engine.

IF the pressure doesn't come right up with new oil,
then you need to take the engine apart and check bearing appearance and clearances.
If nothing is too bad, you may get away with just a new oil pump, a set of bearing shells, and a gasket set.
If you wait and spin a bearing, the whole thing is trashed.

Your choice.

- Eric

 

X2
Well put

 

HAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! - Just kidding! I think everyone here has contributed some good suggestions. Some may be considered harsh from your stand point. I do believe your on the right track on not assuming. The oil change is warranted. Also make sure your idle speed is correct.

Did you consult the prevous owner on the details you have related to the issues?

Keep us posted on your progress.

 

I had one that idled hot with around 5 psi and never went over 25 or 30 revved up. I drove the **** out of it for a year and sold it that way and it is still running today. not saying that is right but my thoughts at the time were if blows I would build a new one as it was not a numbers matching car and the motor was not anything special. if you use this as a daily driver then worry about it. if not and you mind a different motor I would find another one and start building it to what you want and drive this one till or if it dies.

 

I've had the same problem with my 350 I had rebuilt. Turns out and I hope the builder was right. It was the oil. I was using the off brand oil 10W/40. At his recommendation I went with 10W/50 Kendall and the pressure is now at 55-60 psi on cold start up and around 40-45 when driving warm. At idle it's at about 30-35 psi.

 

I agree completely.

As I said, as long as he's prepared for the possibility of a mess, it's okay - but he'd better be prepared .

- Eric

 

im never prepared

reguardless this is going to be one hell of a ride, but i got to stay positive and hope for the best

 

Thats what im talking about right there... Like I said im going to try and change the oil out today if I have the time hopefully that will help me out. To manny people have had this issue or ones just like it.. Before i go assumeing its the worst and rip apart a motor thats really showing absolutly ZERO signs of strain or struggle. I think ill look into everything CHEAPER first haha

The last owner is a good friend of mine, he didnt do much to it at all other then drive it and hes more certin then me that nothings wrong with this car. I traced it back to a girl who had it out in las vegas, she actually posted it on here in like 09. Id love to talk to her about the car but cant get in touch.

I respect all the opinions tho, in my eyes none of you have been to harsh. If anything im sure some of you are tired of repeating yourself, but it all helps me out! Ill post back after I change the oil which might not happen till tm morning.

Later guys.

 

You still think i should use the 15w40 diesel or go with a 10w50?
and was it you that said use a napa gold oil filter?

 

15w40 or 20w50.

 

+1.

 

+2 .

 

so i put in some 15w40 with a napa gold filter.. the oil pressue is better but still low when warm... As much as it hurts to say i found some metal shards in the oil filter when i cut it open.. it guess they could be from cutting it but its hard to tell.. i did used a cutting wheel to open it.. tell me what you think

shave.jpg

 

what kind of car are you working with hear? if the car is worth it i would just ease it around and save up some money to buy another motor to rebuild and put in it. im assuming you have a 350 and if you do end up rebuilding a motor a 455 will always make you smile, and roughly the same price to rebuild.

 

1970 cutlass 350.
Yeah to me the motor is not worth it, I mean it will be a sad day in history and i wouldnt be shocked if this thing ran strong for a whole year BUT if my 350 requires a rebuild, I think I would go for a big block and new tranny (at this point might as well).. Where would one even start to look for a old 455?

What options do i really have for motors and trannys, without really having to fab anything up. Just buy, rebuild, bolt and go. (dont you wish it was that easy? you get the point tho)

looks like i just went from a car project to a engine project

 

when you put the gauge in did you bleed the air out of it ? Its been some time
since I put in a oil gauge but seems to me I had to bleed it to get a good reading.

 

I did.. No change, things are starting to paint a more serious picture now

 

So whats your oil pressure at idle cold, and hot, currently? Whats your cruising oil pressure hot?

 

I'd lift the engine up a little bit, pull the oil pan, and shim the oil pump about .15"
Should have a bunch of pressure then.
Also examine the pickup screen for timing gear pieces, or animal hair.

 

About 50 psi (cold) and 7 psi (cold) I switched back to my dakota gauges as now i know the motor has low oil pressure and assume the digital gauge it correct plus the oild pressure is so low it just looked like 0 on the mechanical gauge anyways. cars still running fine but after finding those metal shards in the oil filter, who knows whats gunna happen.

 

how do i examine the pick up screen ? how hard is it to get to?

 

I was told a valve adjustment would help out with my low oil pressure issues.. what do you guys think?

 

and im guessing the person who told you that hasnt worked on an olds? the stock valve train on your olds is non adjustable.

 

oh and as for the 455 it really is "that easy" provided you can swap a motor. every thing will bolt right up to it, in fact back when i had to use my Rallye 350 as a daily driver i stuck a 455 in it for about a year while i rebuilt the matching 350.