Sorry, all, back from work and late to the game...

As others have said, '80s Chevy truck carb., HEI distributor, "interesting" throttle cable attachment, "plenty" of throttle return springs.

I am not certain at all that that rear choke pull-off is connected to the right vacuum port.

At least one of your choke hot air pipes appears to be disconnected (it's running several inches frontward), and I can't see the other one at all.

Also, you have rubber hoses connecting an aftermarket fuel filter to your fuel line between the pump and the carb (just before the steel line). That's a fire hazard, and should be replaced with a proper steel line when you replace the carb. with a proper Olds carb.

You should be able to mess with this carb. and make it work, but it may really be a lot less trouble, as mentioned already, to get and rebuild an Olds carb., and install that.

Having seen your current setup, my advice to you to be able to get the car running as well as possible so you can continue driving it every day is to go to the auto parts store and buy a manual choke kit - it should come with everything you need to install it in the hot air choke cavity, and give you the ability to control the choke until such time as you get the rest of the parts you need together.

- Eric

 

On an unrelated note...does this relay look roached to you guys? Its for the rear electric grid defroster, needless to say it hasnt been working, possibly this? and any idea where i could get a new one? Sorry to deviate from topic.

DSC_0486_zps614b9191.jpg

 

Imo, just because the carb is from a different vehicle does not mean it can't work fine on his car. The fuel line although not stock correct, is not a fire issue as a lot of us have done it that way for years and years without issue. The vacuum line may not be on the carb all the way but it looks like it is on. The attaching hardware on the throttle linkage is not causing his issues. Just because the lines may be routed differently from stock does not mean they are not functional.


You can test the relay, as looks can be deceiving, although it does look kinda crusty.

 

Never said it wouldn't work, obviously it's been working, but it may be easier to get it tuned and adjusted correctly if it's the one for the car, than if it isn't.
For instance, do the hot air choke pipes connect in the same places on that one as on the Olds carb? I don't know the answer, but there will be a lot of annoying little questions like that, all of which will have to be answered as he sorts this thing out, and all of which can be avoided by just swapping to a carb. that's a known quantity.

As for the other stuff, sure, okay. Except for the rear vacuum break - I'm really not sure that that's connected to the port it's supposed to be connected to. This has nothing to do with routing, the path the hoses take to get to their destinations. It has to do with whether the diaphragm is connected to a vacuum source that will make it operate correctly.

- Eric

 

I agree that he needs someone to help him in his area that can do a tune and diagnose issues. I wonder if there is a member close by that can help him or direct him to someone who can. I would not take the car to a dealer, or a chain type shop.

 

That would be great if there was a member nearby. Hell, i would even travel alittle out of my way if i knew they could help. I would be eternally grateful.

 

It looks like the choke is adjusted too far forward and is keeping the butterfly open. There are three little philips head screws on the side of the choke loosen them and use a flat screwdriver to back the choke up. Trigger the accelerator once to set the choke and back the black part of the choke back until the butterfly closes. Someone here will have the correct settings if you can find some numbers on the carb. Good luck

 

I would pick up a $15.00 choke stat , take the 3 screws out and replace it. Install it with the engine is cold turn the stat until you have and 1/8 of inch opening, tighten the 3 screws. Try putting a pipe cleaner or something flexible thru the heat tube to see if its plugged as well. Depending how cold it was the day your started running into problems.... It may need an oil change due to the viscosity of the old oil this would make some noise until the oil warmed up, I hope you get it running better soon. I have turned my choke stat wide open (clockwise) and tightened the 3 screws so the front butterfly was wide open, started it up feathering the throttle until warm up just to see if the choke stat was the problem. If its really cold feather the throttle slowly it will stall out the first few times just be patient and don't flood it . Hope this helps.

 

I have had a heat tube plugged so badly that I had bent and clamped a piece of brake line to the exhaust manifold running it to the hose before the choke stat until I could replace the base plate and tubes to the intake.

 

Just to reiterate my earlier suggestion, since the OP has not directly addressed much of what any of us said (and not to deprecate anybody else's suggestions):

For the sake of troubleshooting and of eliminating variables so that you can get the car on the road as soon as possible, install a manual choke, then, when you figure out exactly what's wrong and what you need to do to fix it, you can go back to electric or hot-air automatic choke, or change the carburetor, or do whatever else you find that you need to do.


Advance Auto, $10

NAPA, $17

- Eric

 

Did you check it hot with the engine running or cold with the engine off? If the latter, expect it to read low.

 

And as I noted above, the issue isn't that it won't work. The issue is that since it isn't original, we have no idea how it's set up, jetted, etc. The choke connections to the hot air stove do not appear correct, for example. Also, an 80s carb will have internal features for emissions control that may or may not be connected and functioning properly on this installation. We just don't know, and it's impossible to make meaningful troubleshooting suggestions without knowing where we're starting from.

 

FlyingV-

I found a nice carb in the garage yesterday
1973 vintage
Should have all the right features to install easily on your engine.
I know nothing about its internal condition, but the outside looks OK.

I can throw in a good use steel fuel line and a hot air tube or two.

If this is of interest to you, let me know
517..four 49.oh 432