What is your oil pressure? Hot idle, cruise etc. If that is low, expect a total rebuild. I considered my 76 350 was a great candidate for head swap having 140-142 compression and 20+ hot idle, 45-50 cruise hot oil pressure. I pulled the center main and rear to replace the seal, the bearings and crank looked great. I have had great luck on gaining compression with Kleen-Flo combustion chamber cleaner sprayed down the carb throat and sprayed in the spark plug holes and soaked over night. Without a caliper, bore gauge and micrometer, a rering is a total crap shoot.

 

Im close enough to racine to if he wanted to go that route i could help him measure that stuff. i have all the micrometers and bore gauge.

 

That makes a difference, he is a young guy and would probably appreciate the help.

 

He is also close to 80rocket (don) and 67cutlassfreak (dave) . Im sure we could all help. im always willing to help people out because people have helped me out alot.

 

Dave who? That would be greatly appreciative if you were willing to do that Copper.

 

They are guys on here who are located in the kenosha area. When you pull your engine out we can set something up .

 

Sounds like a plan! probably wont be till driving season is over though.

 

Thats fine. i got a 79 c-10 i gotta wrap up (body work) and a few more trips to the drag strip before im done for the season.

 

i wanna get my car out to Great lakes at least once before the Season is over so i can see what she runs.

 

I plan on hitting the grove once more this season.

 

What day would i even bring my car out there? Grunge/Fun racing? doubt theres anything that slow out there lol

 

grudge/fun is just a test n tune. Thats usually when i go. Dunno when im going just yet.

 

Seasons over at the end of this month right?

 

No they run at the grove until snow falls. same with byron.

 

oh sweet! didnt know that..Because their schedule only goes till Sep.

 

If it changed its news to me

 

If a modified engine doesn't go faster with a 750CFM car verses a 600CFM something is wrong.
If you want to go fast you have to have some bigger air moving parts.

 

I think there is more to it . Gear and engine rpm usage all play into it. Again i trap 103/104 currently and i have a 750 and in the past trapped 103 almost 104 mph with a 600 cfm carb. diffrence is e/t . currently running 12.80's i was running 13.3's . But i do have a buddy who ran 11's in a 455 with a 650 cfm carb. Not to mention we had an 830 cfm on my set up that netted the same MPH. bigger is not always better .

 

To better explain. It is common knowledge a smaller carb (cfm) will be more responsive. although we saw no change in mph between the 830 and 750 on my current combo we saw gains in the 60 ft and that got us into the 12's. We not only had much better response off the line but the 830 was actually lean off the line. Im tempted to try a 650 double pumper with bigger 50cc pumps . I need a good 60ft. for better e/t .

 

I am the trackside supervisor at the Grove. I also work for a machine shop, TnT Racing Engines in Gurnee, IL.

We are open Tuesday-Sunday. Every one of those days has open test n tune. And it don't matter how fast you go, it's all about having a good time. Plenty of ricers going 16s and 17s just having a blast.

You want to go faster, talk to me. I love small block Oldsmobiles. My shop is in Sturtevant, right off of I-94.

 

If you want to 60ft, you need a converter. Carbs won't affect 60fts that much unless the carb is really off.

 

is your shop on Highway 11 right before/after the tracks?

 

I'm on Old Hwy 11 actually. East of the interstate about a 1/2 mile. Where are you at?

 

Im in Caledonia On Highway 31 near Buyrite

 

Hell yah!! Mike Clark knows his stuff. I buy some speed parts there, and used his machines in the past.

 

Yeah Mikes a rad dude, so is Cliff.

 

You meet Dave the machinist yet? He ain't there much anymore. He's got the long grey beard. He helped me out a lot when I was younger. He sold me my valve grinder and valve seat grinder for a steal when I first started getting into cylinder heads.

 

Don, don't you have a 350 ready to go with those #7 heads I ported for you?

 

Don the only reason I say the carb will help the 60 ft. Is off the line. My 750 seems "soft "can't explain it the way I want to but I think a carb change will still net me a better 60ft. A converter will do worlds of diffrence but I still drive my junk on the street. I can only do so much as I have set certain restrictions for my self so I'm tapped out on converter per my "rules" so I'm gonna see what carb will do what.

 

Not yet. Too many irons in the fire. You know what I mean.

 

The first 60ft has the most to do with gearing and converter. Like I said, unless the carb is way off, it should not affect 60fts for the most part.

You can get a very nice 9" or 10" converter that will be very street friendly. Converter technology has come a long way over the years.

I applaud your efforts though. You have been busting *** and been doing it your way. Then, you come back to the table with data in hand. Keep doing what you are doing because you are only going to get faster. *thumbs up*

 

Copper I could let you try the converter out of my car. Very street able. Should stall close to 3000 RPM in your car.

 

Just about bought a new one. Considering I have zero carb tuning in my set up I think a carb that will deliver a stonger fuel shot will get the engine spinning faster just enough to get a little better 60ft. I will change converter in the winter when I pull my engine. Also finishing that other 355 . I don't feel like messing with the vaccum secondaries carb I have now . Its a nice street carb but I think something taylored for my build should net us gains off the line and on the big end.

 

Copper, you need to spin that butch up a little higher. Try shifting at 6500. You're not going to hurt that small block.

 

Im gonna try at cordova to mess with the shift points and see what it does. I may not hurt the engine i may i dont know im trying to keep this engine alive as im going to go over a few things and we plan on building a little drag truck since the girl friend wants to go racing. thinking a little dodge dakota should haul *** with my current combo in it.

 

Set floats, Idle air screws and park idle and 10 mins your done???

 

SI442 not that kind of tuning thats the basics just to get it runing right. Im talking about tuning for optimum performance like jetting , making the secondaries come in faster , bigger accelerator pumps , etc etc.

 

I bought a 5.9 magnum/ecm to replace the knocking 3.9 magnum in my 2000 Dakota with a 3.92 sure grip rear. It will get headers, y pipe , shift kit, 1.7 rockers next summer and will see the 1/8 mile.

 

We picked a dakota because they have junk engines. The old ones do atleast so they are not as desireable as say a ford ranger. We will either do a gm 10 bolt or a ford 8.8 for the rear end. We found a few for under 700 bucks that would make good candidates.

 

The early ones had 4cyl and 3.9 junk and are no doubt lighter. The 245hp and 335ft/lbs should put me in the low 15's stock, hopefully. I am going to run the A/T tires and do a couple of runs stock. Then run it with the mods, should run in the 14's by the summer main event.