cjsdad

During my recent adventure with my starter I managed to break the dipstick tube. I'm pretty sure I read about this method on this site, but I used a really cheap slidehammer with a large screw on the end to pull the broken tube out. I threaded the screw into the broken tube and gave it a couple taps of the slide hammer. It felt like the screw had pulled out but when I pulled it out, the broken tube came with it. Now to get a replacement.

green1972

Have it welded! Tim you can also cut it further up and put threaded ends on to make it a 2 piece for future work

cjsdad

Mark sent a new chrome dipstick and tube with the engine but it was a loose fit so I reused the factory one. Now that I need the new one I realize it is still in the storage room in New Mexico with the last of my stuff that I need to collect. Anyone have a recommendation for a replacement?

cjsdad

I hadn't considered welding it. That would be fairly easy to do. I'll give it a try. Thanks!

don71

I'd call that a success! I have failed attempting the same.

I like the idea of welding it. First thought to come to mind was a brass compression fitting.

cjsdad

Unfortunately it broke right at the flaired part of the tube that stops against the block so a coupling would not work. I think I can weld it though.

Fun71

Yeah, that’s where they seem to always break.

Greg Rogers

Wow, you have really good luck! In my experience they never came out- Good Deal! I think you can get repops but not sure...

olds 307 and 403

I always get them out with a screw, vice grips and a hammer. Honestly if you have the pan off and you are installing headers, tap the dipstick tube out. They always seem to break when headers are involved. The only aftermarket chrome dipstick that actually fits tight is the Spectra Performance. I have one for my 358. The rest fit loose and quite often need some ground off the bottom to even bottom out. The Supercars Unlimited dipstick also fit nice and tight but I have been waiting months for an order from them.

CRUZN 66

What specific engine do you need the tube for??? Year, small block, or big block???

skyhigh

I was reading ideas the other day on here and I might try the Lokar LS1 mod. I used inline tube on another 350 and it fit good.

cjsdad

Not sure of the year but it is a 350 block.

edzolz

I put one back together with silver solder. Worked like a champ and welding might burn through unless you are very good..

CRUZN 66

There are three different guide tubes listed for the 350 engine....

400712 - 17 1/2"OAL (68 350)
401568 - 14 3/4" OAL (69/73 350)
417090 - approx 161/4 OAL (74/75 350)

None of those guide tubes are curved inside the block as shown in your photo... They are all straight... I believe you can see what I am referring to in the photos below....
The 401568 is the most common and fits the widest range of 350's.... I do have these available in my inventory... I don't know what affect there will be using a straight guide versus the curved one, possible clearence issue...

Fun71

Be aware that the guide tubes are matched to an indicator (stick) so you may need to measure the stick length inorder to match up the correct tube.

From Chris Witt's parts database:

400712
GUIDE, engine oil level indicator Guide Tube
Olds big block WITH TORONADO PAN
68-75 Toro and 1968 (Early?) 350, 68 Toro.
17.5 OAL, 12.44" top part
Mates with #_________ Indicator

401568
GUIDE, engine oil level indicator Guide Tube
Olds 350 + all small blocks
Mates 401567 Indicator

cjsdad

I managed to get this one welded up and back in place. The weld isn't the prettiest girl in town, but it is sealed. While I was cleaning it for the weld, I noticed there was another crack around the tube so I sealed that part up too. I filed the bottom flat where it fits against the block and put an o-ring on it just for the heck of it. I straightened the tube while it was out as well.

cjsdad

I'll keep yours in mind if I ever decide I want a nicer one. Thanks!