What I've learned-Dipstick edition.
#1
What I've learned-Dipstick edition.
I recently had to installed a dipstick tube on my 442's engine. I pulled the motor to paint and detail the engine compartment and managed to break the old tube in the process. If I had known what a frustrating experience I was in for by letting the tube get broke off I'd have been much, much more careful! Lol
After having been through all I went through to get new tube in I now feel confident that it's not really as bad as I managed to make it on myself! That being said, for someone that has never replaced a dipstick tube like these Oldsmobile tubes it can be challenging if you don't know what you're doing, like myself.
1. First off, I've learned that if you are gonna be replacing a tube...buy 2 of them! Even if you get it right the first time and don't break or screw up the dipstick tube, at the very least you have one on hand in case you ever need one down the road. They're not that expensive and if you decide you don't want to keep it I'm sure you wouldn't have a problem selling it.
If you are doing this for the first time there's a chance that you might screw the tube up during install and if that happens you don't want to be held up on your project waiting for another dipstick tube to come in the mail. I'm slightly embarrassed to admit that it took me three tubes before I got it right...Now I'm an expert!
2. Small hammer, light taps. You don't need to beat it into submission and if you try... get that second tube ready!
3. You can use a 9mm open end wrench or another small open end wrench resting on the seat ring of tube and lightly tap on it with a hammer to get it in, but I found out (the hard way) that you can and will end up screwing up the tube doing it this way.
4. What I found to be the best method to get tube seated was to take a 1/4" bolt, put a little tape around it and stick it in the top of the tube and lightly tap it with a small hammer. It's important to hold it in place and not let it move all over the place. I read about this method and it didn't work for me at first until I learned that the next step was needed. See#5
5. Sometimes you have to take a little metal off the two pressure bumps or (whatever they're called). My first attempt at install I tried everything except sanding down the two bumps and it was frustrating as hell to keep tap-tap-tapping on the tube to get it in place. I got it in to the second bump but couldn't get it in any further. It was a long day and I had a couple beers while doing it and it didn't end well for me and the tube, lol.
I ended up bending the tube trying to tap it in from the top and also boogered up the seat ring doing the open end wrench "trick". Had I not read somewhere that you shouldn't take any metal off the tube to get it in I probably would've at least tried taking some off till I got it in.
6. The way that I found that worked the best, was I took some fine sand paper cut it in strips and folded in half and sanded a little off the bumps and tried putting it in, sanded some more and so on. Emery cloth would probably be quicker/easier. Just don't get carried away like I did on my second attempt at install! I tried grinding a small amount off and ended up taking too much off and tube was too loose in the engine block. You should still have to tap tube into block, otherwise tube will probably not stay in or leak.
7. As in most cases when it comes to wrenching on cars, it sure does pay to be patient and it sure as hell costs to be impatient or in a hurry.
I should add that I heard a lot about sticking the tube in the freezer before install and I tried that, leaving both tubes in Freezer over night at the coldest setting I could get. I'm afraid that I found that it didn't make a bit of difference.
Just wanted to post my experience in the hopes that it helps the next rookie gearhead.
After having been through all I went through to get new tube in I now feel confident that it's not really as bad as I managed to make it on myself! That being said, for someone that has never replaced a dipstick tube like these Oldsmobile tubes it can be challenging if you don't know what you're doing, like myself.
1. First off, I've learned that if you are gonna be replacing a tube...buy 2 of them! Even if you get it right the first time and don't break or screw up the dipstick tube, at the very least you have one on hand in case you ever need one down the road. They're not that expensive and if you decide you don't want to keep it I'm sure you wouldn't have a problem selling it.
If you are doing this for the first time there's a chance that you might screw the tube up during install and if that happens you don't want to be held up on your project waiting for another dipstick tube to come in the mail. I'm slightly embarrassed to admit that it took me three tubes before I got it right...Now I'm an expert!
2. Small hammer, light taps. You don't need to beat it into submission and if you try... get that second tube ready!
3. You can use a 9mm open end wrench or another small open end wrench resting on the seat ring of tube and lightly tap on it with a hammer to get it in, but I found out (the hard way) that you can and will end up screwing up the tube doing it this way.
4. What I found to be the best method to get tube seated was to take a 1/4" bolt, put a little tape around it and stick it in the top of the tube and lightly tap it with a small hammer. It's important to hold it in place and not let it move all over the place. I read about this method and it didn't work for me at first until I learned that the next step was needed. See#5
5. Sometimes you have to take a little metal off the two pressure bumps or (whatever they're called). My first attempt at install I tried everything except sanding down the two bumps and it was frustrating as hell to keep tap-tap-tapping on the tube to get it in place. I got it in to the second bump but couldn't get it in any further. It was a long day and I had a couple beers while doing it and it didn't end well for me and the tube, lol.
I ended up bending the tube trying to tap it in from the top and also boogered up the seat ring doing the open end wrench "trick". Had I not read somewhere that you shouldn't take any metal off the tube to get it in I probably would've at least tried taking some off till I got it in.
6. The way that I found that worked the best, was I took some fine sand paper cut it in strips and folded in half and sanded a little off the bumps and tried putting it in, sanded some more and so on. Emery cloth would probably be quicker/easier. Just don't get carried away like I did on my second attempt at install! I tried grinding a small amount off and ended up taking too much off and tube was too loose in the engine block. You should still have to tap tube into block, otherwise tube will probably not stay in or leak.
7. As in most cases when it comes to wrenching on cars, it sure does pay to be patient and it sure as hell costs to be impatient or in a hurry.
I should add that I heard a lot about sticking the tube in the freezer before install and I tried that, leaving both tubes in Freezer over night at the coldest setting I could get. I'm afraid that I found that it didn't make a bit of difference.
Just wanted to post my experience in the hopes that it helps the next rookie gearhead.
Last edited by .Rocket.Man.; June 29th, 2015 at 06:32 PM. Reason: add pics
#5
Welcome to the "Oldsmobile dipstick tube replacement veterans club"! You have experienced and overcome an obstacle that many before you have experienced.
Simple solution here is to apply gasket sealer around the ridge then insert the tube into the block. Once the sealer dries, the tube is held firmly in place in and it won't leak.
Simple solution here is to apply gasket sealer around the ridge then insert the tube into the block. Once the sealer dries, the tube is held firmly in place in and it won't leak.
#6
Getting the broken piece out of the block was way easier for me than the install! lol. Luckily I was able to get a small pair of vise-grips on the remnant of tube sticking out of block and just worked it out.
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