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Trying to change my filter on a quadrajet. Inlet flair fitting won’t break lose. Using flair wrench, she won’t budge. Ordered new pump-carb line and filter housing. Want to stay stock.
Is it okay to use anti seize on the threads of the flair fittings?
Since the flare of the tube is your seating surface, the threads shouldn't have any effect on the fuel. Be careful and not slop it everywhere, but a thin coat of antisieze on the fitting threads only shouldn't hurt anything. Again, just don't get any kind of goop inside the flare and you should be fine.
Honestly, I don't see the point, but it's your car. Fittings should be snug enough to ensure no leaks, but not star torqued to death.
Just a thought......it’s not unusual for the carb threads to become stripped over time. I have seen quadrajets where the owner JB welds the fitting into the carb because there aren’t enough good threads to get the fitting tight. I hope that’s not what has happened to yours. Good luck!
I anti seize the threads, the back of the flare & neck under the nut on every flare fitting I work with. In most cases I put the slightest, imperceptible film on the flare surface itself. No galling, greatly reduced friction, easier to “feel” the connection, threads and loosens smooth as silk, both today and 20 years from today. Am I nuts? Maybe but......
I do lean towards thinner bodied, copper based anti seize (Wurth brand fwiw) for these and save the thick silver stuff for heavier applications.
Last edited by bccan; March 11th, 2021 at 07:05 AM.
I anti seize the threads, the back of the flare & neck under the nut on every flare fitting I work with. In most cases I put the slightest, imperceptible film on the flare surface itself. No galling, greatly reduced friction, easier to “feel” the connection, threads and loosens smooth as silk, both today and 20 years from today. Am I nuts? Maybe but......
x2. This is an absolute must with stainless steel. Newly flared lines don't always seat well the first torquing, so lubing them up helps get good seating torque, and I'll sometime cycle them once or twice if I don't trust the flare. I've been using NiCopp for almost everything these days, and it is quite a bit easier to work with.
As others have said, put a tiny dab of anti-seize on the flare nut threads AND on the outside of the tube where the flare nut sits. This is the real problem - the OD of the tube rusts to the inside of the flare nut, which causes the tube to twist and break when you try to loosen the nut.
You're quite possibly stuck to the tube as well as the threads. A little will be fine, but remember that changes clamping force per torque, so do NOT gorilla the thing putting it together.
Thanks. The flare is definitely stuck to the fitting, tube is bent. Good new is the filter holder is turning easy on the carb. Had a big crescent on it, and the 5/8 flare on the inlet. With my neighbor holding the crescent in place the inlet fitting wouldn’t budge. Actually had muscle ache from trying to break it free. That was with pb blaster on it overnight and reapplied 2 hours before. Hope the pump fitting breaks easily. Im just glad the pre made lines are available.
I’m thinking cut the line, spin out filter housing, put in vise vertically, soak tube/nut w/ penetrant so it can fill up like a tiny bowl. If it won’t break, clean it a bit, pull out the inductor or torch and heat the nut, should break loose without burning anything to the ground. Fuel pump end? Remove pump, hand pump fuel out and then try the same procedure, just use your judgement on latent fuel and vapor. An inductor if you have access to one is ideal or a crack torch with a small flame would be good for these tasks.
Replace the line with anti seize in appropriate places, maybe fuel pump too if not feeling the heat thing and it’s stuck there too.
I have had the best luck by smacking the smaller wrench with a hammer instead of trying to just pull on it. Like the others said having the proper 1" wrench for the filter housing makes it a lot easier.
March 11th, 2021, 06:18 AM
