72 cutlass s 350 rebuild

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Old December 27th, 2009, 11:41 AM
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72 cutlass s 350 rebuild

To start with I am rebuilding the 350 out of my 72 cutlass s. I have already gotta the edelbrock 7112 manifold and the 7111 cam, edelbrock 7813 timing set, comp cam mag rocker and stud kit, 50,000 hei distributer. So I have a couple of questions I somehow have #8 heads on that engine, is it worth working with those heads or should I find some heads that pre-date them? Also I was planning to put a 3000 stall on a th350, but i dont know if that would be to high of a stall for street use. I also would appreciate advice on the piston type to use. Any other advice or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks so much in advanced.
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Old December 28th, 2009, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BEERN420
To start with I am rebuilding the 350 out of my 72 cutlass s. I have already gotta the edelbrock 7112 manifold and the 7111 cam, edelbrock 7813 timing set, comp cam mag rocker and stud kit, 50,000 hei distributer. So I have a couple of questions I somehow have #8 heads on that engine, is it worth working with those heads or should I find some heads that pre-date them? Also I was planning to put a 3000 stall on a th350, but i dont know if that would be to high of a stall for street use. I also would appreciate advice on the piston type to use. Any other advice or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks so much in advanced.
You don't need that much converter with that cam unless you have a low numerical gear (2.73 etc.). 2000-2500 is fine. That cam might be a bit too much though if you have a gear in that range.

What's your budget and intended use? If it's mostly street then use either the flat top or the 6cc dish Speed Pro piston. That'll depend on the head you use and your desired compression. You'll need to figure that beforehand. Whatever head you go with, the increase to 2.00in. intakes should be considered. And with that cam, which tends to be a bit lazy, you'll want at least 9.5:1.
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Old December 28th, 2009, 03:06 PM
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Look on the driver's side pad below the alternator bracket on the engine block, and post the number. Usually 3Mxxxxxxx.
If it is a 73-76 motor, it already has 14cc pistons in it, and depending how bad your block ends up being, you could possibly reuse them and save a bunch of money.
I like those stock pistons, and just bolting a pair of #2's on with a thin gasket should get you 9:1 compression alone.

It's fun to say you can click off a 12 with a stock bottom end, too.
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Old January 1st, 2010, 07:39 AM
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I hope you do not have a 71/72 engine with those #8 heads!
The heads you have are decent, but just do not expect to get much compression with them due to their 80 cc chamber.
You need #7's if you want near 10:1 compression.
Jim
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Old January 1st, 2010, 07:48 AM
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Yeah I am stuck with those #8 heads off the 72 350. I was trying to track down a set of #5 heads for my build, but I havent been having too much luck with that. So you think there would be a big difference between using #7 instead of #5's, noting that this is just going to be a street toy with the possibility of running it down the track just to see what it can do.


Thanks
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Old January 1st, 2010, 07:53 AM
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The #8 head is a 73 through 76 head.
Do you have a 73 up short block???
A #7 head will jump you compression by over 1 point, unless the 8's have been cut by a BUNCH.
Check your block-that is free, you need to know.
Jim

Last edited by Warhead; January 1st, 2010 at 07:55 AM.
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Old January 1st, 2010, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by BEERN420
Yeah I am stuck with those #8 heads off the 72 350. I was trying to track down a set of #5 heads for my build, but I havent been having too much luck with that. So you think there would be a big difference between using #7 instead of #5's, noting that this is just going to be a street toy with the possibility of running it down the track just to see what it can do.


Thanks
Pm'd you.
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Old January 1st, 2010, 08:10 AM
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I'll have to check the block number this weekend the motor is in a 72 cutlass s that was suppose to be all original, I was really thrown when I seen the #8 heads on it, but like you said I need to check the number on the block. Thanks as soon as I get it checked I will post it up here.
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Old January 1st, 2010, 08:49 AM
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If you are changing heads, one advantage of using the 7a heads is hardened valve seats. These are the correct heads for your 72 and will show considerable improvement over the #8 heads. The #7 heads are correct for 71 and may have hardened seats but I am not sure. You should try to find a set locally because shipping is going to be expensive.
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Old January 1st, 2010, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by redoldsman
If you are changing heads, one advantage of using the 7a heads is hardened valve seats. These are the correct heads for your 72 and will show considerable improvement over the #8 heads. The #7 heads are correct for 71 and may have hardened seats but I am not sure. You should try to find a set locally because shipping is going to be expensive.
Not really, shipping UPS from Florida to Melrose Park, Ill is about $50.00 for the pair last time I checked.
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