83 Hurst Olds here. Stock motor aside from headers. Car has new radiator and 180 thermo. Ok at highway speed but if I sit in traffic or putt around town it will camp at 220 and sometimes creep over the line to the point where I have to put the heat and blower motor on high (not fun in a black car on an 80 degree day). Any suggestions to cool this thing down? Car was just taken out of storage sat from 06-last month, but this has always been an issue
Thanks,
Adam, PA

 

Replace your fan clutch (and your fan shroud, if it's missing).

- Eric

 

I call fan clutch, too.
Pop the hood when it is running hot and there should be a blast of hot air from the fan.
If just a little breeze, change the clutch.
I had that same issue.

 

Since your problem occurs at slower speeds and in traffic, I'd have to agree with the others on fan/clutch, shroud, and I'll add is there anything in front of the radiator that was not there when stock.

Also are there any issues with your engine?

 

I agree. Also, how is the coolant flow in the radiator?

 

Aside from running hot the motor is cherry (89k), fires right up, idles all day and at 160-180 has great throttle response and power (speaking in relative terms). If you open the hood there is no "blast of hot air." After running if I pop the hood and spin the fan it spins real easy (little resistance). If i get in the 220 range I'll get the RPMs up and it'll come back down to a manageable temperature. Never replaced a clutch fan, any special tools needed? tips/F.y.i's? Thanks for the help!

 

original fan and shroud, nothing in front of radiator at all (condensor isn't even there). If the clutch is beat is that causing the fan to spin slower at the lower rpms?

 

I would bet it's the clutch as well, give it a try. If it's shot it will freewheel all the time and not do anything to cool the engine. Not too hard to replace, just unbolt it from the water pump pulley with some open end wrenches. I recall reading it's important that the replacement be kept upright until it's installed on the car too, not sure if that's true or not.

 

Yup, change the clutch, no special tools required. Get the HD cooling version.

 

Get a Hayden 2747 from Rockauto - they are about 40 bucks + shipping. I have heard good things about them.
Open end wrenches (1/2" or 9/16) are all you need. Remove clutch and fan assy from water pump and extract the fan and clutch. remove the fan blade and put on the new clutch, then reinstall on the water pump. Tighten the nuts on the pump studs in alternating sequence until they all are good and snug.
I did this last month and was a drama-free 15 minute repair.

 

Thanks for all the help, I ordered the hayden today and will be here monday. I've read a lot of folks asking if there is a powerful air flow when you pop the hood. Mine is as gentle as a mouse pissing on cotton..if you rev the motor you wont even hear the fan. That said, I have two questions, whats the lowest temp stat I can safely run (i'm looking at some 160s) and should I consider a larger fan?
Thanks,
-Adam, PA

 

If you have a 5-blade fan, upgrade to a 7-blade. Find the largest diameter that will work with your shroud. Should be lots of choices in the salvage yards. That will definitely help the stop and go temps. I usually find that overheating at low speeds/traffic/idle is due to a lack of airflow.

I second the motion of a 2747 fan clutch; it's a great upgrade.

I've read that the computer won't like a thermostat colder than 180 degrees. If you are still running the CCC, it would be cheap to find out. But a 160, 180, and 195 and see which one works the best for you. I run a Stant 180 SuperStat in my 307 and have no issues.

 

I am one of those folks whom said that.
Certainly sounds like your clutch is shot! My original one was like that.
A good clutch will be loud upon first cold start and when it gets hot enough to engage.

I use a 180 in my '86 Cutlass with good results.
If the clutch works you will not even need a different fan, esp for a 307.

 

Your car was designed to run the higher temp thermostat, plus you live up north. If you use a 160 deg you will lack heat in the winter. The temperature rating on a thermostat is to regulate the minimum temp in which the engine operates, so using a a 160 degree basically will just mask the problem you already have and lengthen the time it takes for it to reach the high temps that it's running now.

I would think if your airflow is as weak as a popcorn fart, it's probably your fan clutch. Please note that we have all run into bad thermostats right out of the box. Your car calls for a 180 deg.

 

A guy at the track suggested I change mine and damn what a difference.

I wasn't overheating, but my fan had a lot of play as well. The fan clutch in the car was orginal

Wasn't hard at all. Just remove the fan shroud to give you more room to work

 

Clutch showed up this afternoon. I had it on in 10 minutes and WHEW! what a difference...runs 60 degrees cooler! Thanks for all the help and advice!

 

Glad it worked.