RAMBOW

Did some searching and didn't see an obvious answer...

I bought all new ARP headbolts for my 455 build- but my car has the power steering on the drivers side and there a headbolt with a stud on top that the PS bracket attaches to. I don't see that ARP makes a bolt like that.

I have an extra original ACC studded head bolt- can i just it with the stock recommended torque spec (oiled) in conjunction wtih the rest of the ARP bolts, being greased and torqued to the ARP spec? or is that a big no-no?

Thanks-
Ben

oldcutlass

Just curious on the difference in torque spec between the ARP bolt and stock. If it's not much I would use the stock stud at ARP torque spec's.

RAMBOW

I went ahead and lubed & installed all the ARP bolts torqued to spec. I'll decide later on if I want to pull that one out and replace it with the stock stud bolt.

ARP's spec on these w/ their required moly lube is 70ft/lbs
Stock head bolts spec dipped in oil is 80ft/lbs

matt69olds

I have a ARP head bolt with the stud for A/C or alternator brackets. I cant recall where I got it but it is available. I'm not using it, if you cant locate one let me know.

gbledsoe3

Realizing this is old but folks are still actively posting. What did you end up doing for the cylinder head bolts that need to be studs for the power steering pump bracket mounting?

I'm ready to tackle that issue now. I bought the ARP 180-3600 head bolt kit and just drug out my ps bracket and media blasted them.

Olds64

Gary, I bought a sat of ARP head bolts for my 455 and used the stock bolts w/ stud where necessary. I believe there is one bolt w/ stud on each side (one for PS and one for AC). Interestingly, I used the Oldsmobile torque spec and not the ARP spec.

gbledsoe3

Just a thought, if one were to use the ARP head studs instead, is there enough 'stud' above the nut to attached either the PS or AC bracket?

Olds64

I doubt it. Head studs are intended to replace head bolts and provide more clamping force. They're generally used in racing applications (where a PS pump and AC wouldn't be used), or on engines that were poorly designed from the factory that blow head gaskets all the time (like the Ford 6.0L diesel or the Cadillac 4.6L Northstar).

83hurstguy

If you use the ARP head bolts, use the stock torque spec with their lube. There has been a history of leaky head gaskets using the reduced torques.

Reference this thread for more info:
http://realoldspower.prophpbb.com/topic812.html

Olds64

Good to know, thanks Luke.

gbledsoe3

Found my original head bolts. A little time in the media blast cabinet and using the wire brush on the bench grinder and they look good as new. I'll only use the ones with the stud though.

Olds64

Man, I need to get a media blaster and cabinet. Those look brand new!

ELY442

Im using ARP head studs #185-4001 that takes a torque to 80lbs with their moly lube and using the stock head bolt with studs and torque it to 80 lbs. No problems so far.

gbledsoe3

To be honest, it was the wire brush wheel on my bench grinder that put the "shine" on them. After the media blasting, they're clean but a dull gray. Besides I needed to make sure the threads were cleaned of any left over blast media.